A map could save your life

Well, I’m out of Auckland! I came really close to going back tonight, but just couldn’t do it. After flipping the coin that decided I was heading north, I ate breakfast, checked out, and headed down one of the main roads I know. I couldn’t turn where I thought I could, so I turned at the next place I knew went north. My car started making a horrible sound while I was on the motorway, but then it stopped. I figured (hoped) I was just riding the bumps that are the suggested lanes. When my car made the same sound I took the first exit and stopped at the first gas station. I topped the tank off, kicked the tires (no flats), and looked under the body. Nothing. Maybe it was my imagination?

I had already decided that this journey would entail as little backtracking as possible, and the exit from the gas station wouldn’t let me anyway. So I started heading down the road (highway 11 maybe). From there, I started driving about the way I walk through the city. Hey, that street looks good, lets try it. Oh, but don’t turn back, just find out where it goes and keep going (hey, that’s how I ended up at Mount Eden and working in Eden Gardens my very first day in Auckland!!).

So I decided “Great North Road” sounded like it was going my way, and maybe there was reason it was called GREAT. I followed Swanson Road for a bit and then found “Scenic Drive”. Hey, sounds good to me. Out of the many maps I have, all are pretty useless once you start looking at non-motorway or major streets. As I was driving down “Scenic Drive” I enjoyed the luxurious green everywhere and the few glimpses of the city I caught between mountain breaks (it was pretty far away!). I saw a couple markers indicating trails of the road, so at the first pull off I could find I locked my car and headed back towards one of them. I kind of questioned myself when I looked down onto a muddy, somewhat steep path that had a “Danger” sign at the bottom. I wasn’t sure what a stoat was, but I was definitely keeping my hands (and pets if I had them) to myself. The track was muddy (made me wish I had put my tramping boots on instead of my trail shoes), but no worse than any SE Alaska trail after a typically drizzly day.

It didn’t take me long to start worrying about my car. I had no idea what road I was on and how popular it was for breaks in. Granted, a person would have to be cruising by, see it, and then turn around to vandalize – but I’ve heard of theft in the North Island. I was kicking myself for not putting my laptop under a seat and locking it to the rail. I was doubly kicking myself for not packing my passport with me (passport plus credit cards all in a convenient IRD wallet would mean jackpot for any thief). However, I told myself I wouldn’t be long, and it was the middle of the day on a Sunday. What kind of burglars are out at that time? Plus, there were tons of bicyclists out. That would keep people honest, right? So I continued down the intriguing path, happy to be in some forest only 2 hours (approximately) after leaving the city. At some points I took it up to a trot. Not just because I felt rushed, but just because I was happy and light. Then I would come to a muck pit and slow WAY down to pick my way around it. I found a fantastic Amanita Muscaria (Alice in Wonderland mushroom) next to the path. The top was curved up and had a perfect pour spout in it’s edge. If I was a potter, I would so make a pitcher like it.
I eventually came to a fork in the path, with signs and a map. I was at the initial trail I had seen from the road. These two road paths connected to a big loop path. I decided to go down to the loop junction before heading back. The loop was supposed to go back to damn, so I was wondering if maybe there would be a lake in the center of the loop. I loped along for a bit having fun. I heard voices a couple times, but just kept going. Pretty soon the voices were quite close. I entered the loop junction and asked the 2 people there if they knew this trail. What I had hoped would be a casual conversation about the area (there is no lake until you get near the damn, then there’s some water) turned into a semil-lecture about how I should always carry spare water and food and clothes and A MAP and that I shouldn’t just wander trails because sometimes the trails aren’t well mapped and people often go missing. Oh, and I should always leave a plan with someone so they know when to call the search guys. There may be no bears here, but this is a more dangerous area than Alaska, etc etc, and then repeat the above at least one more time. I’m not sure that he ever got the point that I had never planned to go further than were I was at already, but I’m sure he felt I was woefully underprepared just for a 15 minute walk and that he was a bit concerned if I could find my way back. I finally got myself out of there. It made me really annoyed to be lectured to, but I definitely understand where he’s coming from. There have been two people missing on trails since I’ve been here – one was found dead many weeks later. I think what really annoyed me was the way he brushed aside my hiking experience and then constantly repeated his “rules” of hiking. On my way back up the trail I ran into a large group. The leader said “And here’s a happy tramper” as I came bouncing up. I smiled and we all chatted real briefly. They asked where I was going (or coming from, don’t remember) and I told him I just went to the loop junction because, as you can obviously see, I am not prepared for a longer trip (no raincoat, no water, just a camera and light jacket – go BSU). I told them I just saw the trail, parked, and walked. They thought that was great. I told them that I got a semi-lecture about maps and preparedness. They chuckled and asked who it was and then said they were with them ;-o Oh. It was funny, the guy at the end, as they group was walking away, said next time just to use a French accent and say “Oui, next time I will remember that”. :-) That made me laugh, and feel better about being there.

It turns out, I really was on the edge of wilderness though. After seeing the vast range of the Waitakere preserve, I can definitely see how people get lost. I was basically heading towards the end of the peninsula west of Auckland. The reason I was driving through such lush mountain forests is because that’s pretty much all they are. The guy definitely has a point about having a map of an area before trekking – but at the same time, I would still feel confident doing the Fairy Falls hike I came across (but didn’t do). While there will always be trails that aren’t as well marked, all the one’s I’ve seen are well marked with time and distance on them. Just don’t go down unmarked trails! Oh – I did text message my dad after that to ensure that he can get my messages. Figured I could start making nightly check in’s that way, if it made the parents feel better (since e-mail is getting expensive - $2 for 20 minutes at this place!!)

Anyway, like I said I passed up the Fairy falls trailhead because quite a few people were parked and getting ready to go (one had a baby on hip – so I was sure you didn’t need a map for that :). I kept driving until I came to the Arataki visitor center. The guy on the trail told me I could buy maps here, so I pulled in and checked it out. I wasn’t going to throw down $8-10 just to have another map in my car. If I end up working in Auckland, I will definitely get a map and check out the area, but not now. So instead, I took the free map showing that pretty much all roads from there either ended at a beach or went back to the city. I purchased a beautiful postcard of Rangitoto at sunset (my first postcard, I have no idea who is getting it – so don’t anybody hold their breath :) and talked with the cashier a little bit. She suggested I check out Piha beach and showed me a couple of trails (on THE MAP) that I could take. However, she never even suggested I buy the map. I guess she figured I took those trails I’d either fall into the ocean or be insane to climb the steep forest up the mountain!

So, I drove down some beautiful curvy roads with oncoming traffic BLAZING by. I’m not sure I’ll ever be comfortable driving that fast around corners in a station wagon – particularly while driving on the left side (yep, I never even drifted to the right). I stopped at an amazing overlook for Pahi beach and then continued down. It was lovely. Sandy beach, wave after wave after wave of whitecaps, a huge rock/mountain in the middle between the two mountain heads. I took a ton of pictures – but at ten cents a minute, you all have to use your imaginations. Sorry.
Anyway – long worded day short. I saw a bunch of beaches, walked through forests, took mass amounts of pictures (and couple videos of seafoam blowing by like tumbleweed), and still had time to find a place to sleep. I admit, I had to suppress the panic that kept wanting to creep up on me when I saw that it was 3pm and I still had no idea where I was going to sleep. I’m not even sure what the laws in the USA are for sleeping in your car, let alone what they are here in NZ – but I don’t feel particularly safe doing it on the north island – unless I’m at a designated camp site, which there weren’t many of nearby. So, as I stated earlier, I came very close to heading back to Auckland, but I really didn’t want to go back to my comfort zone. So pressed on, consulting my accommodation books and pamphlets over and over until I finally saw that I was really quite close to town with one hostel in it. I headed for it.

I arrived at in Helensville just before sunset and found “Malolo House” easily. To my surprise and happiness, they were not full (I didn’t think it would be because of location, but I figured my luck would be that it was full). In fact, it’s just me and 2 German dudes. The Malolo House is a large, beautiful place that I would love to have my mom stay in (or any relative - but it’s not handicap accessible :( It even has a hot tub!! I have been drying off while writing this! I could have gone deluxe for $33 and had a room to myself with towels and washcloths provided, but I saved $8 (hey, that’s 4 Liters of gas!) and went for the dorm/bunk room. I’ll have it to myself anyway. Plus, breakfast is still included! Yay.

I survived my first day of wondering aimlessly. Now, to spend $2 to get online. I’ll post this, check my mail (but not reply to anybody at these prices), and hopefully find that a WWOOF farm wants me to stay with them. *sigh* I am homesick, but I’m relieved to have a place to rest my head – that isn’t some creepy place in my car.

Oh yeah - and that awful car noise? it's my crappy speakers kicking in and out - whew!!

Hey - I just checked my e-mail. I got a WWOOF job working on building an earthen house (among other duties). Yay, free room (and hopefully board) while doing good hard work for 1/2 a day (not stupid bed making). Hopefully free internet?

Northward bound

I just tossed a gold $1 coin. It landed queen (heads) so I'm travelling north this morning. If it had landed kiwi (tails) I would be headed east - towards thermal hot spring and chilly mountains. Instead, I head up the peninsula and into probable rain. I'll probably end up doing some diving at poor knights (cross your fingers for me that they need someone to work in their shop).

I had a minor meltdown yesterday - stressing out over spending money while not making any - but am much better now that I've made the decision to leave Auckland. Money comes and money goes, no point in stressing. I do want to get on the move though. (Yes Viriginia, I am impatient - always have been, but I'm trying :)

It's funny. My initial plan when I came here was to head up north after my a week in Auckland. Here it is, 4 weeks now and I've only left Auckland once! Hence my desire to flee quickly. I am tempted to stay - drop a resume at a recruiting agency (a smart thing to do, but I should have done it 2 weeks ago) and I would like to got to a trecking club meeting Monday night - but I decided if I kept hanging out because of one more thing I wanted to do, I'd never leave. I'll be back though. The northland is a dead end, and all roads lead back to Auckland. Besides - I have to eventually pick up the mail my parents posted to my former hostel ;)

Am I nervous? Extremely, I don't even know where I'll be staying. Am I excited? Yes, I just wish the freaking manager of my current hostel would show up and unlock the pots and pans so I can make some oatmeal! Am I prepared? Probably not. I really should pick up a stove to go with the gas cans I've been given, but then I'd have to pick up a pot to boil water in. Then I'm just finding more and more reasons to linger. Not going to do it. I'll buy all that junk when I pass back through Auckland. There will be plenty of grocery stores where I can stop and pick up the bread and jam i need to live off of PBJs ;)

Yay. Happy travels to me! (now I just wish this sinus headache would go away - I think I inhaled some mildew or mold from the old blanket I was sleeping with - ewwwwww).

Phosphorescent dreams

I am currently back at the hostel where I stayed upon first arriving here in Auckland. My face is hot. It could be the wine, but I think it’s the sunburn. My cheeks are even redder than usual. I guess that should be expected when two days are spent on the water under a sunny sky.

After spending a night at Verandah’s hostel (where I worked and met Bobbie), I got up early, packed my things, woke up Bobbie and gave here hug goodbye, and got picked up by an older retired guy named Roger. Roger and I had corresponding for a week or so regarding a sailing trip.

We headed to Okahu Bay where is small sailboat is anchored. He purchased the boat in 1985 or 86 and raced it for many years. He now posts bulletins on backpacker boards advertising day or overnight sail trips – of course I called! Roger was a very nice man and was very interesting to talk with – as a civil engineer from Britain, he spent many years in Iraq and Jamaica before settling in New Zealand. Jamaica is where is got into sailing.

Yesterday was a beautiful day to go sailing. Calm waters, a bit of a wind, and a fairly clear sky. Roger was pleased to have someone on board that had a bit of experience, as some people come on the boat expecting a luxury yacht and no work. I manned the tiller the entire way to Mototapu island (the island right next to Rangitoto, of a previous blog). We passed Islington bay, the water between the two islands, where I had walked to on my trip to Rangitoto. We anchored in Home bay and had the whole bay to ourselves (well, after we chased a fishing boat out :). After setting the anchor and stowing the sails, Roger rowed us over to the beach and got his feet wet in order to get me shore dryly (I felt a bit bad about making a retiree haul me around – but that’s why I was paying him, right?). After scaring some sheep further up their hill, we cut off from the road and onto a path that took us through some lovely restored vegetation. We walked to the top of the island and saw the remnents of old gunnery hides and armament storages (with cows standing right next to them, how NZ is that?).

After looking around a bit, we headed back down to the beach and rowed back to the boat. Roger would not let me row, I offered. We sat around and had tea, chatted about this and that, ate some pasta and tuna fish, and then chatted some more. After dark and before bed, I used the ladies loo (a gray bucket, not to be mixed up with the yellow dish washing bucket) and was thrilled to see the sparkle of phosphorescence when I emptied the bucket. I love phosphorescence. Okay, I love anything that glows and sparkles – and these little buggers did both. So what is phosphorescence? Phosphorescence is basically just light. In this case, the light is produced by tiny little organisms in the water. When you disturb the water the organisms produce a bright light. I’m not sure why (I know, what kind of biologist am I?), but it’s absolutely beautiful. I remember seeing phosphorescent streaks created by fish at night when Forest and I were sailing. The coolest was pulling up the shrimp pot. You would see this glowing blob get closer and closer to the surface until you could see each rope of the pot creating its own light.

I woke up in the middle of the night and use the bucket again. I took the time to look up at the millions of stars sparkling above (there were so many that I couldn’t even make up a constellation!). After pondering the sparkle of the universe for a bit, I pondered the sparkle to the ocean. I used the bucket to create swirls of twinkling light. When I went back to bed I had dreams about being on a boat and watching the phosphorescent outlines of manta rays, turtles, fish, jelly fish, and all sorts of crazy creatures creating crazy designs. I would have forgotten this dream if it hadn’t been for Roger. We were sailing back to Auckland under blue skies with a good wind (less than 15 knots). We wanted to get back before the 25-30 knot winds picked up in the afternoon. Roger was telling me that orcas sometimes came into the bay in winter. They chased the rays up. That reminded me of glowing images under the water.

Roger also told me that the little blue penguins could be seen in these waters. You only ever see them in a sailboat, because the engine noise frightens them. He pointed out a bird he thought was a penguin. Then decided it was riding to high in the water. Then we watched if fly away. Penguins don’t fly (in the air). As I watched the cliffs roll by and the green of Browns Island approach I saw a dark bird low in the water. “No, it can’t be a penguin” I thought. I had tears in my eyes from the sun and wind (oh yeah, I lost my sunglasses just before picking up my car a couple days ago – I really need some new ones, I’m really cheap and the style here is BIG sunglasses. I look horrible in BIG sunglasses. Did I mention I’m cheap. I don’t really want to buy stylish sunglasses for $200. I’ll keep looking). Anyway, I cleared the water out of my eyes. The bird was still there, riding low. I asked Roger “that isn’t a penguin is it?” He was surprised to say that it was in fact a penguin. I didn’t get a really great look at it, let alone a picture. I was manning the tiller at the time. I can say, it looked a lot like any other sea bird, only it looked like it was floating on it’s belly – it’s head didn’t come up real high and when it did, it was more horizontal than vertical. Pretty cool though – my very first ever penguin!!!!

A hint of winter and a LONG drop

I returned last night from my first road trip! I picked up my new car Wed. morning and was on the road Wed. afternoon. (I was supposed to get the car Tues. night – but I won’t go into boring details; suffice it to say that the whole thing was more of a pain than I had hoped).
My travel companion (for whose birthday this whole trip came up) was my roommate – Bobbie. It was a nice 3.5 hour drive from Auckland to Taupo involving only one missed turn (which we realized as soon as we passed it) and only one reminder that I was on the wrong side of the road :) The landscape reminded me hobbiton (Lord of the Rings -LOTR) - there are crazy hills EVERYWHERE. You’re just driving along and pretty soon there are 4 or 5 tall, but somehow small, hills all grouped together. All they need are some doors and windows and they’d be the perfect place for a hobbit to live! Most of the hills are a beautiful green grassy color, due to previous logging and current grazing (yep, cows and sheep everywhere, even a few alpacas). Some of the hills/mountains were currently being logged, which was pretty ugly. A couple of mountains were only half logged, creating a bizarre lopsided forest with a perfect line between clear cut (or maybe some small new growth trees) and the old forest. Kind of bizarre.

Our arrival at the pre-booked Rainbow Lodge was pretty simple (once we got on the right road). It was a very nice place (huge) with a sauna (!) and separate TV room (which we geeked out on for WAY to long after dinner). We put all our stuff in our rooms, headed toward the lake, and looked for a place to eat. The lake was beautiful, surrounded by hills with a couple of mountains far off in the background. These snowcapped mountains are the home of the Tongariro crossing and of Mount Doom (again LOTR). I kept kicking myself for forgetting to take my camera! We picked up some dinner and headed back to the hostel for the night (no, we didn’t use the sauna).

Bobbie was quite surprised with how much cooler the weather was in Taupo – she hadn’t considered a change in elevation. There was a definite chill in the air when we arrived that evening. What surprised her even more was seeing a good layer of frost on the ground (and car) the next morning! A little touch of weather to come? Not sure if Auckland ever gets a freeze or not, but Bobbie is happy Auckland is where is she’s wintering. I put on my long johns and we went for an early morning walk in town to Bobbie’s ATM. After a short panic, in which she thought she hadn’t gotten paid, we walked back down by the lake. The cloudless sky above was a beautiful pale blue, but there was a heavy fog hanging over the lake. The water’s surface had bits of mist drifting off of it. Really pretty.

We headed back to the hostel, checked out, and climbed into a long white limousine. We were going skydiving – and we were going in style! There were 4 of us in the limo, along with one mom just going to watch, but we there were several more people at the airport when we arrived. We all sat through a demo DVD and a brief description of our purchase options – 45 seconds of freefall from 12,000 feet, or 60+ seconds of freefall from 15,000 feet. Bobbie and I had already decided we were both going from 15,000 feet and buying the whole package (DVD and CD of still pictures – plus we got a free t-shirt and one of those dumb rubber bracelets (what is the deal with those things?)). I think we were both surprised when every other person in the group chose to jump from 12,000 feet. They were all doing the DVD package deal, why not spend the extra $80 and get those extra amazing 20 seconds of free fall? Several of the people later said they wish they had.

So, we signed our names stating that no one would get sued if we died (afterall, one of their crew would have been injured/killed too, since they were attached to us if something happened), put on our cool blue jumpsuits, and got cinched into a very secure harness. They ended up running two plane loads of people that morning. We were in the first plane, along with 2 other guys (and their tandem partners).

Now, I must say, Bobbie has been thinking about, and worrying about, this dive for the last several days. She woke up extra early that morning because she was so sick at the thought of sky diving. But this was her birthday present for herself and she really did want to do it. I, on the other hand, put hardly any thought into it other than knowing that sometime after 9am on Thursday the 5th of June I would be falling out of the sky. It didn’t scare me, it didn’t worry me, in fact I wasn’t even that excited about it! It was just a fact. I started getting pretty excited after watching the intro DVD and wearing a harness. It barely started sinking into me what I was going to do. So, when I watched the first 2 people sit in the plane’s door and just… disappear, I was like “What, Why?, Oh my lord”. :-0 I started to get a bit excited, but not really nervous. After the second 2 people rolled out, the plane door was closed and we continued up to 15,000 feet. Bobbie and her partner (Dean?) went out the door first. That’s when it hit me. I actually watched her do the roll out and fall into nothingness. I, and my partner (Mac), were the only people in the plane (that weren’t at controls anyway). I think I started screaming before I even got my feet out the door!!! It wasn’t so much that I didn’t want to do it, but screaming just makes these kind of things fun. I mean, I never really need to scream on a roller coaster ride or when I’m upside down at the fair – but it just makes it more fun and scary. So, I started screaming before I even fell into nothingness. I was vaguely aware of the pilot yelling something, but I had no idea what (when I talked to him later he said he was just screaming because I was! Awesome).

Having someone else there to do the actual rolling out of the plane makes it a lot easier to exit a perfectly good plane! I didn’t know when we were going, I just knew I wasn’t going to screw up the only thing I had to do. That was to “be the banana”. I had to arch back into my partner, and I wasn’t going to screw that up. So amid my yelling, I felt him tilt my head back and I knew we were going. I arched my back and bent my legs as far as I could. I think I did it right. It was hard to tell since I was all of the sudden completely weightless and extremely disoriented (they do a full 360 roll on exit – a little dizzying). I was now screaming because I didn’t know what the he** I was doing. I didn’t even know where my stomach was! The way they make the DVDs is by having your tandem partner record everything with a handheld camera. My video, for the entire free fall, shows me with my mouth wide open (in a scream you can’t hear) and drool running by my cheek. It’s hilarious.

After the parachute opened I was able to close my mouth and take some actual breaths (maybe that’s why he hopped me up on oxygen before we exited the plane). The view was absolutely amazing. Indescribable really. The video doesn’t do the mountains or lake any justice. The white mountains of Ruepehu are completely lost and the small mound of a lone hill can’t really be seen. But I can still remember the clouds hanging over that small butte and the snow gleaming white on the far off mountains. The lake was wide and the land was cut into nice little plots of farm and grazing land. It was 50 times better than parasailing. Not because of the view, but because you’re not attached to anything terrestrial at all. Plus, you don’t get anywhere near the rush parasailing! I can see how skydiving can be addictive! Mac got a couple more good yells of excitement out of me before we landed, by putting us into a couple tight spiral spins. They could be used for a theme ride!

The landing made me breath a bit faster. I thought the ground was still coming at us a bit to fast, but Mac was great. He had prepped me for a sit down landing. Even though my ears registered that I was supposed to stand up (because everything was perfect), my brain refused comply (I’ve already broken one leg, no need to repeat it!). So I sat, while Mac stood, making it a bit awkward for him, since we were still tightly attached. I got myself together fairly quickly and it’s hardly noticeable on the DVD. Mac unhitched us, let me clear the snot, tears, and spit off my face before doing the close for our DVD. Then I went over and gave Bobbie a big hug - we had both made it safely (watching her video later we saw that her chute was actually crossed over at first! But her extremely capable partner fixed it without her even knowing!).

It was an amazing time! The handycam DVDs are really different and pretty fun. They even let you pick out your own soundtrack, choosing 3 different songs for the intro, freefall, and parachute descent. Then, after you’ve taken everything off and are still talking about your experience, they show you your DVD on their really big screen and you get to relive the whole thing. It’s definitely a souvenir worth the price!

So, that makes three of us Dohner girls to have gone skydiving. Mom was the first (an anniversary present from dad I think – hmmmm, is that love?), Kristi did her dive in Hawai’i I think, and now me. So next time I’m in Idaho with the two of them, we are SO going sky diving together!!

Rangitoto Island

Yesterday was “Queen’s Birthday” , an holiday. Apparently her actual birthday is in April, but it’s too close to Easter to celebrate in that month. NZ celebrates by closing some business (banks I think) and paying time and half for those that stay open. The UK celebrates by closing nothing and paying regular. Odd?

Luckily the ferry schedule was not affected by this holiday. I took Saturday off from maiding so that I could do the Maori planting, but Sunday was my last day altogether. To celebrate not making any more beds, I took a 25 minute ferry ride from downtown Auckland to a little old volcano in the sea, called Rangitoto (ron-g-ee-toe-toe). While the ferry drops people on the island twice a day, I was very glad to have the entire day to explore, 3 hours would not have been long enough. I still didn’t see the entire place in 5.5 hours. I’d say I spent 4 – 4.5 of those hours just walking.

I woke up at 2:30am to the sound of rain. I stay in the basement of the hostel - if I can hear the rain, it’s really raining. So, at 2:30, half awake, I start thinking if I can switch my Tuesday schedule (sitting in a wifi café uploading pics and posting blogs) with my Monday schedule (tramping up Rangitoto). I decide it’s impossible – Tuesday afternoon I definitely want to see La Boheme, an opera in town for a short time, and I should have a car to pick up too. I go back to sleep having decided that rain or shine, I’m summiting the volcano.

As luck would have it, there was definitely more sun than rain. My walk to the ferry terminal was cool and dry, but as soon as I arrived a nice drizzle started. Obviously, I had packed my raincoat. By the time we reached the island, the rain had stopped and the sun was warm (though the rain would briefly return another 3-4 times throughout the day). I watched most people head straight towards the summit, via the direct track. So I took one of the side paths, choosing the one that looked like it would be in the sun – since I was still a bit chilled by the boat ride and rain. I’m glad I choose the “coastal track”. I put my hands in the NZ Pacific Ocean for the first time!

The whole island reminded me a lot of Hawai’i – the lava of course, but some of the plants are similar too. The coastal track began by following the beach of a’a (sharp, rocky) lava, but then moved inland and into trees. The tide was low, but there weren’t any good tide pools or anything of much interest on the beach and a lot of it was covered in mud (there was a WHOLE TON of garbage lining the high tide mark though). I used my camera to video tape 4 water birds talking to each other on a rock. I think mom and dad will like it. I found a few flowers to photograph when the track turned inland, but everything is pretty much done, as it’s turning into later fall here. Funny though, I found some lichen that reminded me of Chilkoot trail trip in Alaska! I also saw a few super tiny lizards run out of my path. They were so small and so fast that I couldn’t even begin to describe them. They were brown. I think.

I completed the coastal track in half the time they listed and was a bit surprised to hear voices at the end in front of me. Then I the trail opened up and I realized I was hearing people on their boats anchored in the bay. Everybody was enjoying Queens’ Birthday. I followed a path that led to an old controlled mine base – where, during WWII, underwater mines were set to blow up if given a command from shore. There’s not much left there though.

I had a few other options at that point. I could walk across a bridge and check out Motutapo island (which is super green and clear of trees, I assume people farm or raise cattle on it – the exact opposite as the vegetation gone wild on Rangitoto), but I didn’t have a map of trails for that island and I wanted to see the summit. So I started walking the road (yes, this little place has a road – most of it is unpaved though - they have small bus/carts for tourists to get rides and listen to a guide). I was going to forgo the lava caves because I had forgotten to bring a torch (flashlight), but then I remembered that my cell phone has a light in it – and I don’t mean the light from the screen; it has an actual function that lets you turn on a flashlight!!! The light is definitely dim, but was fairly useful for the 5 feet I needed to traverse in absolute darkness. After that I could see the light at the other end! It wasn’t much of a cave, but it was plenty for me. There were some small openings in other areas, but there was no way I was exploring those – I’m way too claustrophobic. There was also a big hole I could have gone down and explored, but I was a bit worried that I wouldn’t be able to haul myself out again. (I later climbed into a tree on the way down from the summit, so I probably could have managed.) However, I also didn’t like thinking about all the spiders that live in those openings near the front of caves were all the vegetation and air is located.

After that quick tour of the caves (and a slight detour of bushwacking when a side trail ran out) I finally headed for the summit. When I came out onto the “summit track” I was met with people. Lots and lots of people. My entire walk on the coastal track was empty, then I saw the boaters and I passed a few people on the road to the caves, and then I ran into more people at the caves. I knew the holiday was going to be busy, but NZ is small, so busy to me couldn’t be the same as busy in NZ, right? Wow. I think if I had headed to the summit when I had first arrived I would have missed the crowd, but I didn’t. So, when I came to the summit track, I headed right up it. I wanted to get in front of the people that were standing around (waiting for what, I have no idea) and I wanted to get some distance between me and the people coming up the track. But no matter how far the people were behind me or how many of them, I was not prepared for the throng of people at the summit itself. Wow, every railing on the deck seemed full of people. Okay, that’s a slight exaggeration – it wasn’t sardines up there – but you get the idea. Lots of people. So, instead of eating my lunch overlooking Auckland or the ocean, I ate lunch behind a building looking into the forest. I was rewarded for my anti-social efforts though. I saw some funny little green birds flitting around – I think they were called white-eyed juncos in Hawai’i, but I’m not sure what they call them here (or even if that’s the proper Hawaiian name). Got a good photo or two, but they don’t ever sit still very long.

When I came out of hiding after lunch, I was surprised to find the decks even more full than before. I quickly took pictures from each of the corners and then headed back down the mountain. I took some scenic detours when they were offered, but I was mostly walking behind people – passing them when room allowed or getting off the trail for a short break so I could fall behind. When I arrived at the ferry dock I headed to the toilet (they don’t call them restrooms or bathrooms or facilities here)and was surprised see a lot of people already milling around. When I came out of the toilet the ferry had arrived and people were already queuing (that’s what they call a line here and in the UK – pronounced cue (weird spelling – I had to ask my UK roommates)). If I thought there were a lot of people at the top of the summit, imagine my surprise when I saw the queue! I didn’t think we would all fit on the ferry! But we did. When I got back to the mainland, I was pretty tired of walking – I caught a bus to the hostel, took a shower, ate some leftovers, and wrote this long-winded (er, long-worded) blog. And even now, I find things I could blather on about! It really was a fun day. I’m glad I finally got “out” of Auckland and saw some nature.

Maori Planting

I woke up early this morning, ate quickly, and packed my raincoat. The walk downtown to the bus station was white with fog and I became slightly disoriented coming off the overpass. I caught the bus with time to spare, but the bus driver didn't know what street I was talking about - Kitemoana? I don't think it was just my pronunciation. A random guy on the bus knew what I was talking about, especially after I told him I was going to the Orakei Marae. So I payed and sat down, knowing I was at least heading in the right direction. I chatted briefly with the guy that knew what was going on and then watched the water and boats slide by. When we started nearing my destination the bus driver finally realized what I was talking about and let me off directly across from my street - just like the computer directions told me it would.

I meandered up the curvacious road, taking pictures of the skytower rising out of the fog - looking like a UFO about to land in the city - and of big black birds that reminded me of overlarge ducks with chicken legs. The birds had a beautiful blue sheen to parts of them. I had no problem finding the Marae, though a couple in a car with their children stopped and asked me for directions before I'd even arrived.

So at 9:20am I was 10 minutes early for the planting and reforestation of this native land. I looked around at the park-like expanse of green overlooking the sea and then headed back to find somebody that knew what was going on. A nice lady walked me over to where other people were also waiting to start work. I talked to a man with a clipboard and found out that he was the instructor for the group of young muslims enrolled in a leadership course. This was their community service and last class. The boys kicked a soccer ball around, the girls stood aside talking to themselves. I talked with the leader (originally from Egypt) for a while and then found myself with a soccer ball going past me. I made the comment that "I'm not that quick" as an excuse for not kicking it back. That got one guy to introduce everybody (I won't even try to remember the names) and I found myself included in the circle of soccer ball kicking. The girls had been coaxed into it too. It was fun to watch the boys try to do all their soccer tricks, and I didn't manage embaress myself to much.

Eventually enough people had arrived that we were gathered together and given a welcom in Maori. We were then led to a large area of ground that had some large plants already thriving, but many more small plants laid out waiting to be planted. Our mission was to plant 11,000 marsh plants in an effort to restore the land to habitat for birds. I was worried that the boots I had finally taken out of the hostel (no returning them now!) would not be up to the match of working in a wet land - the people that had done this before were in "gum" (rubber) boots. However, the land was muddy, but not soggy. We were given a quick demonstration of what height to plant the harakiki (unsure of spelling) and then we were each given a set of gloves and a spade. I spent the morning talking with various volunteers and planting the flax foliage that would later be harvested for native weaving. I met many happy people and never needed my rain jacket. It was a very beautiful day.

In my conversations I learned that I was actually standing on Bastion Point! Bastion Point was always Maori land, but had been loaned to the government during WWII. The government, of course, never gave it back. 30 years ago the government was set to start building rich houses on the land and the people of the land weren't going to stand for it. They set up camp and started a protest. The Auckland library has a gallery of pictures and enlarged newspaper articles displayed to commemorate what happened 30 years ago. It was neat to put a location to the name I'd seen.

Near the end of the planting (they actually had to bring 2 more cart loads out because we had planted the 11,000 in less than 3 hours! - There were a quite a few people) I met a lovely elder lady. She pretty much adopted me, calling me Miss Mel and telling me about the best planting to come to - during a moon cycle when they do the food up in the ground (similiar to Hawai'ian cooking, but also different). I rode back to the buildings on the back of the cart with Elizabeth and her granddaughter. I ate lunch with Elizabeth, I was included in a group picture with Elizabeth and her Japanese group, and I exchanged contact info with Elizabeth so she can have me over for dinner some time. She was such a nice lady - half Maori, with a lovely granddaughter - half Japanese. She was at the Bastion Point protests.

I was offered a ride by a woman I had talked to during the planting, Christine. We exchanged contact info too. By the time I left the Marae I had many flowers tucked into my headband - they had been given to me by Elizabeth's granddaughter.

blog comments!

I was just messing around on my blog and found - I have comments! Wow. That's pretty cool. It would be cool if I got an e-mail when someone left a comment, but now I'll just have to randomly check.

Hey, I think I know who Cube 1811 is!! I can't actually confirm their identity, since they don't have profile with any details (which I can understand), but based on the mention of 3 kids, wife, and the fact that I've gotten an e-mail from him via blackberry (his favorite way to post blogs) I'm pretty certain I'm related to this Cube. Someday I may even be able to get a connection where I can download his podcast (wow, I've never known a podcaster before!).

Awesome. A big thanks to those that have commented, and a really big thanks to all that have e-mailed me telling me you like the blog. I try not to think about what people do and don't want to hear, and just write what sounds good to me. I just try to keep it honest and PG - though I had to use some astricks just for humor in one of my last blogs. I'm not sure that any of my GOTR girls get to read this, but if they what kind of example would I set using naughty words?

Smiles, rain, and giving away money

I have had a smile on my face for the last couple of days. I can’t give you a reason. I just do. I’m happy. I went to a café with Bobbie and the barista looked at me and said “You look very pleased with yourself”. I was surprised. I told him it must be because I was going to have a chi tea. When we left his comment bothered me a little bit. It sounded like I was full of myself or something. But then I decided that it was a sad comment on the state of his clients – does nobody smile in the this town? In the end, I decided just to be glad that I my inner happiness was shown on the outside.

That isn’t to say that I don’t have my bad moods too. This morning, for example, I was incredibly irritable and just wanted to cry. I had planned to couch surf this evening until Tuesday, but I had forgotten about my “date” with Bobbie – to see the rolling stones movie, “Shine a Light”. I really like Bobbie and she had no one else to go with, so of course I wasn’t going to flake on her. I was really disappointed when my host didn’t want me to come back so late. I’m so tired of making people’s beds and was looking forward to having a free couch that I let my disappointment make me cranky and unhappy. But on the upside, I am going to spend time with a friend and have someone to talk with in the evenings for a few more days.

It rained this morning, which didn’t help my mood, but then the sun came out. I made the decision last night to buy the car I drove yesterday. Then I saw a van for super cheap and tried to look at it. They were out of town, but offered to show it to me tomorrow or Sun. That cemented my decision. I walked over to Flavio’s hostel, kicked the tires, checked the engine, and told him I would buy his car. It was a good deal for both of us – he doesn’t have to advertise, I don’t have agonize. We cemented the deal with a hug. I left walked back up the park with a HUGE smile on my face.

I walked down the main drag looking for a store (which I never did find – I am the most unobservant person sometimes, I can’t see the things right in front of me because even when I’m looking for them, it really crack’s Bobbie up). I checked out a souvenir shop and thought about all the things I could send to Kristi – a stuffed Kiwi, a moveable animal alarm clock – but didn’t buy anything. I walked on and then stopped and gave a homeless guy my change (<$3). That put another smile on my face and made me feel good. I then ran into a guy on the street with a clipboard. We all know we don’t want to deal with it. But I have nothing better to do really and they usually have a good cause – I signed a petition to bring some Chinese big wig to human rights court the other day. So in the end I became a member of Greenpeace! I didn’t feel pressured per se, though I did try to get out of it at first. But then I decided it is just money and money is meant to be spent. For the most part Greenpeace is a good organization, though some of their actions have given them a bad name. I ended up talking to the guy for a good while. He’s just back after 2 years of traveling abroad. We talked about Morocco mostly. He told me about the Dohner kebab (though it’s not spelled like my name, I’m not sure how it’s spelled). I walked away with another big smile on my face.

I headed towards the library. I saw “Queen’s Street Kebabs”. I was the only customer. I asked about the Dohner Kebab, he asked if I was German. He made me a traditional kebab (lamb, hommus, etc) and we talked about Alaska. I was surprised when he didn’t start shoving meat on a stick. I thought I was getting a kebab! It turns out that there are two Turkish kebabs, the one I was getting is more like a wrap. Huge and yummy! Everything was wet from the rain that had come and gone while I was talking to the Greenpeace dude. So I wandered around while eating my delicious kebab. I watched a guy that is probably homeless with a mental disorder throw his bag around. I checked out what other events are happening (an opera – La Boheme – that I might go and see). I finished with lettuce at my feet and yogurt on my hands.

Despite it’s rocky start (involving WAY to many pieces of chocolate after making beds), the day has turned out really good. I am happy to have helped several people in this city sleep better tonight.

Driving on the left side

I DROVE TODAY!!! It was kind of crazy. Every time I tried to use my turn signal, the windshield wipers started! And I’d never get them fully turned off, because I was to busy making sure I didn’t run into something, or using my left hand to get in the proper gear. My passenger, and owner of the car, Flavio, would turn them off for me – as he’s telling me to “move over, you’re really close to the parked cars.”

It was pretty funny. At one point, Flavio pointed out to me that I was on the wrong side of the road! But only once. Right after I’d done a 3 point turn around. I just started driving down the little lane as if I was in America. I assume I would have figured it out when I saw cars coming towards me, but it was nice not to have that panic added on. We got a good laugh out of it. Luckily he couldn’t blame me much. I didn’t realize that Italians and Germans (not sure about the rest of Europe) also drive on the right side of the street – like us! So driving on the left was new to him too! Weird, I just assumed everybody except us pound and mile loving Americans drove backwards.

I haven’t given him a definite yes on buying the car. But I’m really leaning towards it. My parents and sister got a letter asking for advice. I really, really don’t want to go to the car market.

AMAZING Priscilla

Priscilla was AMAZING. It was everything I was hoping it would be – and more. There were dancing paintbrushes, dancing cupcakes, and a real bus with sides that flipped open to see the action inside. There were queens on the red carpet (see pics below) and queens on stage. Our seats were amazing. While we couldn’t actually see their faces from our heightened view, we had an obstructed view of the entire stage and all the glorious choreography. We were at the top of an aisle, so we didn’t even have seats in front of us!

The venue was gorgeous – The Civic. Bobbie and I were wowed by the intricate architecture and a “starry” ceiling when the lights went down. While I probably could have gotten a few pictures of the performance, I honoured their request for no photos – they would have been blurry without flash anyway. It was better to just watch, laugh, sing along, and dance in my seat than to try to worry about a camera.

The stage performance fit the movie almost exactly. There was no flash back to Tick’s wedding, but there was a flash back to a Lay girl performance. The ending collage of dance number was beautifully handled and the ending song brought out pretty much costume from the movie – including the ostrich, lizard, Koala, and a couple kangaroos. Of course they had the didgeridoo version of I will survive – complete with outlandish circle feet costumes.

The only disappointment was finding out that here, as well as in the UK, playbills are not provided! You have to purchase them on top of purchasing your ticket. I am such a spoiled American! $20 for a playbill! Well, yes, it is worth it for a Priscilla souvenir (I have a large stack of FREE playbills to remember all of my other theatre performances. The $10 strawberry daiquiri was also worth it, for the light up martini glass I got to keep! Yep, I’ll be sending home a package in the near future!

Ah, what a great night. Ha ha ha, I get all giggly just thinking about it this morning.

I got my picture with drag queens!!!

(Quick note – is it only the NZ/AUS version of MS Word that spell check gives you the correct spelling for didgeridoo? Or does the US version also provide it? NZ Word also gives all of my words an extra “u”; i.e. colour, honour, etc.)

Tuesday morning

Good Morning.

It’s been a couple more uneventful days here in Auckland, a few more days of being antsy. I spent all Sunday in the hostel. I know it sounds lame, but I had a TON of beds to change and then my laundry to do. It started raining in the evening. So I got quite a bit of reading done!
Yesterday I had only a few beds to do. I finally picked up my bank card, and they convinced me to open a savings account; so I didn’t have all of my “eggs in one basket” (yes, she said this). I wondered around my old neighbourhood of Parnell, and then it started raining again. I was smart enough to bring a raincoat with me, so I didn’t get to wet. I stopped at a Starbucks during the heaviest part of the rain. I purchased a very intense sugar rush – white hot chocolate a triple choc. cookie. I’m surprised my stomach didn’t ache or my head didn’t hurt after all that! Unfortunately, their WIFI wasn’t working – at least the free one wasn’t. I wasn’t about to pay $10 for an hour!!

On my way towards the library I ran into a guy taking a picture of his car, in front of another hostel. I asked if he was selling. We talked. I rode with him to get his WOF (warranty of fitness – all cars must have, they won’t give them to you if something major is wrong; i.e. brakes, windshield, tyres, etc – yes, that is how they spell tires here!) They didn’t have time to get his car in for WOF when I was there, so Flavio drove me to the library and we talked about the car. It’s okay, but I’ll definitely keep looking – although I’ll probably test drive it today, it will be the first time I’ve driven here!!

While my day will not be to exciting – no idea what I’ll be doing after I finish maiding – my evening will be excellent. I’m going to Priscilla!! Opening night!! I can’t wait to see how people dress up. I can’t wait to see the show! My roommate is quite excited too.

All details will be posted tomorrow!

Gardening Tips

I went to the Britomart Farmer's market today. I saw some HUGE cauliflowers and celery larger than I've ever imagined. When I commented on this to the vendor, all she had to say was "horse manure". I imagine lots of sun went into the equation, too. So if you are looking to win the prize for largest vegetable - start shoveling your neighbors horse sh**. :-)

I didn't post anything yesterday because it was a boring day not worth reading - maiding, bus ridinging, dropping off an application that I won't hear back from, and library. I ended the night wondering the streets of Ponsonby (the district I'm staying in) and then playing a card game with a couple girls in the hostel (the 2 I went to the cinema with). It wasn't a bad day, just nothing note worthy - as I imagine most of my coming days will be.

Life here pretty much just consists of waiting (for my tax number to come through). I'm starting to get a bit antsy about traveling. I walked down the street last night and fewer than 5 people made eye contact with me! That's the city for you - no matter where in the world you go I expect. I'm starting to think more about purchasing a car. I'll need to drop a lot of weight during overnight hikes, might as well be some where waterproof and relatively secure. While I could bus to most places, I'd still have to pack everything around and then getting to the "gems" of the country would be more of a hassle - I promised my parents I wouldn't hitchike and I intend to keep that promise.

I'm spending more money than I like lately - eating out for dinner, going to cinemas (though Indiana was WAY worth it). Another meal WAY worth it was a takeaway (to go) Nepalese meal I had a couple nights ago! I've never had Nepal food before. It would have been fantastic, except that most of the goat meat still had bones attached! Still, it was nice to try something different. My roommate ordered something also, a favorite meal in Nepal apparently - it too was tasty. I really hope to make it to Nepal someday!

First, I have to make it to the rest of NZ!

Indiana Jones

Spent all morning rocking out to Gogol Bordello as I did my maiding (yep, I made it a verb).

Then I meandered around the hostel for another hour or two, reading and lunching until it was time to head to the cinema. My roommate, Robbie, invited me last night. She and another worker of the hostel were going. Of course I said yes. Time with girls and a movie on opening day!

Just finished watching the new Indiana Jones - it's excellent of course. Won't give anything away, but it was hilarious.

The girls and I split ways so I could check my mail before heading back. Yes, I am that addicted! I also wanted to print my resume from an attachment I sent out, but since my laptop uses 2007 everything, the computer here couldn't open it! Of course, I didn't bring my laptop to the cinema, so now I have to go back and save it as an older version (I hope 2007 lets me do such a simple thing - I hate microsoft sometimes).

Now, if only the library computers would quit eating up my time trying to load stupid pages. Ugh, I have not patience.

Today is a better day

I had a lovely dinner with Alison, a lady I contacted through couchsurfing. We met in a Border's cafe and had tea and sandwiches. She had lots of interesting things to tell me, and gave me some idea of what islands would be best to ferry to. She also walked me over to the public library (across the street). I was able to set up a temporary account and can now use the library computers for free, about 1/2 - 1 hour at a time. Yay! It doesn't solve the picture upload problem, but at least I can check my e-mail. Also, I did not realize that both New Zealand and Australia still answer to the Queen of England! They have a governor proxy that makes decisions in her place! Wierd - Queens birthday is celebrated in two mondays (although here birthday is in April, it's to close to Easter to celebrate then).

When I arrived back to the hostel, I met one of my roomates - Robbie, a sweet young girl from the UK islands. We chatted for a bit. Made me feel more comfortable there. She and my other roommate work for Vodaphone (mobile phone company) full time. This morning I woke at 8, had breakfast, walked through the park just below the hostel, and then started work. I made 10 beds today and vaccumed both floors and several rooms. It was nice to be productive, but I do miss having my mornings available (the ladies I've been volunteering with at Eden gardens meet today). Once I get a new pair of headphones I should be set for being a maid. It's certainly not a profession I plan to continue with, but since I'm doing "loos" I don't really mind the work. As I said, I like being productive. I like getting free board too!

So today has been much better. Chatting with Alison and Robbie last night really helped. Getting a good nights sleep helped a lot too. I get so emotional when I'm tired. Free internet is a load off the mind too. I want to check out Auckland tramping clubs. I found a government job office where I can search for jobs online. I checked out how they organize their CVs around here; I'll need to tweak mine a bit.

I have been checking messages while typing, in between erros of sending that is - Argh, it just did it again. Thanks for everyone's lovely support, it is much appreciated.

Out of touch

Greetings to all my overseas readers,

I'm afraid to say that I may not be blogging much anymore. The cost of internet connection at my new hostel is $2.50 per 1/2 hour. Across the the way, where I am now, it's $2 per 1/2 hour! What a rip, and there's no WiFi. I might be able to use my thumb drive to get picture over though.

I made the treck to the hostel - my pack was carriable, it was the messenger bag on my belly that was hard to maneuver around. But I made it. Didn't even sit down once. I will definitley be starting my hiking boot search again though - I think my tail shoes probably lost 1/2 an inch from all the weight (40 pounds total maybe?). Made beds and vacuumed today. Shed a couple tears for leaving my old "home" and still not knowing anyone. Guess it's just all catching up to me, particularly with not having the constant internet to escape into to. I may not be able to talk directly with anyone, but the contant e-mail still makes me feel less lonely. I've really appreciated all the responses I've gotten from my mass e-mail. Unfortunately I didn't get some of the undeliverable addresses sorted out before losing my free stuff.

I am more pleased than ever to have a coffee date set up tonight. I don't expect a long term friendship, but someone to chat with will be fun; and tomorrow will be a better day.

Cheers to you all, I'll try to share happy news soon,
mel

Eden Garden

Yesterday morning the skies were a very dark grey. I packed by bag with a raincoat and my BSU jacket. I headed up the street with a cool breeze in face. It was perfect walking weather, particularly when wearing jeans and a T-shirt (rather than the thin, cool pants I've been needing to wear). I arrived at Eden gardens at 9am. Thanks to a city map I'd been given by a German girl from my hostel, I had no problems finding the place again. The gates were open, but the volunteer squad wasn't there yet. So I wondered around, exploring and taking pictures.

Eden Gardens is a great name for this place. Obviously it's named for being at the base of Mt Eden, but it really could be a miniature garden of eden. The 5.5 acres used to be an ugly old quarry, but today it has paths and sculptures draped in foliage. The paths criss cross everywhere, so I'm not sure I've fully explored the place. I made my way to the top of the garden and was treated to a fantastic view of the city and lush garden. Mt Eden was just behind me bit further up. Unfortunately, improper drainage from the mountain caused a slide that closed the loop path back down the mountain. So, after sighting my volunteer leader in my camera, I headed back the way I came. I did not run, as the dead leaves on the ground and the damp paths could have left me with a few extra bruises, but I didn't dally with picture taking either.

Soon, I had met up with the 3 ladies I had worked with last week - Diane, Julie, and Natalie. We occupied ourselves until Jeff showed up with a truck load of soil and then we started the mass potting of tulip bulbs. It really is much easier work than back home. Since we are putting bulbs in a pot with soil from a truck, we don't need to kneel on the ground digging hole after hole. Of course, they will have to dig many, many trenches to plant the pots in this week!

Again, we broke up the work with a morning tea accompanied by biscuits (crackers) and homemade fruit chutney (very interesting stuff - goes great with the NZ cheese they served). It took us another couple hours to finish potting the thousand plus bulbs and use the entire the truck bed of soil. We were then treated to lunch. I went with salmon and asparagus quiche (excellent) this time, which I'm glad off. I'm sure the pumpkin soup was lovely, but a little to odd sounding for me. Diane gave me here address and phone number so that I could put here down as a reference on applications. I very much appreciate this, as I all my other contacts are in the states. I also have a letter of recommendation I can provide with my applications.

Despite the black clouds that greeted the morning, it never did rain. It wasn't near as warm as the past few days, a stiff breeze kept the sunshine from getting my back to warm and the many clouds made me glad I had a jacket to wear during lunch. All the women agreed that even the locals can't predict Auckland's weather, they all expected rain also.

I concluded my last major business item last night. I bought a mobile phone (pronounced mobe-eye-el). It's pretty much going to be used for potential employers to get hold of me. I'm not really giving out the number, as it costs NZ$0.89 per minute - that's within NZ and to the US! The beauty part is that I don't have a contract. I just call in and "top up" minutes on the SIM card, and I'm good to go. I did use it once last night, set up a time to meet a local woman for coffee this evening. I'm really looking forward to that.

Today, I move hostels. I repacked so that all my stuff is in my backpack. I still have to figure out how I'm going to carry my laptop/messenger bag with the pack. I'm a little nervous about the walk across town, I really don't want to find out what poor shape I'm in. The upside is that my bag does have several things in it which are unnecessary, and therefore slightly heavier than when what it will be for tramping. The down side is, that gear probably weighs less than the tent and food I'd be travelling with. I am slightly disappointed to still be in Auckland, as I had planned to be moving up the north coast, but I definitely need the time to get my hiking legs back. This hilly town should be perfect for that purpose.

Antarctic Experience

Day 5 comes to a close. It was a good one. I'm not sure how far I walked, but it was all in sun and I have the rosy cheeks to prove it. I know, I know I should be wearing sun screen here in the land of the ozone hole. But, I don't. I can't stand greasy stuff on my skin, and I sweat so much I would have to apply it 5 times a day. So, skin cancer and age spots here I come - just give me another 20 years please. I still need my looks to eventually snag a man :)

Wow, anyway, moving onto my day! I walked through Parnell district, across the bay and around a couple points to reach Kelly Tarltons Antarctic Experience (http://www.kellytarltons.co.nz/home/). It's basically an indoor aquarium with fish tanks, a walk way beneath a shark/fish/ray tank, and penguin breeding facility. It was awesome. Way worth the NZ$30 to get in. They have a free "cat" ride (simulated snow cat) in which you ride around the penguin enclosure. It was great fun. I took a ton of pictures, some of which are actually not blurry. Of course, I can't upload right now, maybe tomorrow night.

The gift shop (through which you had to travel to exit, of course) had the usual cool junk, but they also had amazing jewelry and excellent souvenirs. I bought my first souvenir yesterday at the farmers market (my german bunk mate laughed at the fact that I've only been here 4 days and already had something to send home). But I couldn't resist, you could only buy the handmade object if you bought their food product (which I did, an lovely pepper and lime infused oil). I still haven't decided who will be receiving this item; mom and dad or Kristi. I found a ton of things at the aquarium I'd have loved to send - but I kept my money in my pocket. Maybe when they come to visit they can pick out their own items. Or maybe I'll get an employee discount and buy all the junk I want. No, I'm not hired yet (and now that I've put my hopes on paper - er, cyperspace? - I probably won't), but I did pick up an application and they are hiring. I should get the app dropped off with my CV by Wed - after I learn how to make the beds in my new hostel.

On the way home I sat and read some of my travel stories in the park, then another malnutritious meal at the hostel (bread & PB, tea, and potato - disappointingly not a sweet purple potato like in Hawai'i), and then sucked into a movie on the telly (Chuck and Larry - pretty funny really).

Anyway, my 1/2 hour is done. Tomorrow - Mt. Eden gardens: working and viewing. I'm really looking forward to doing something productive.

It was fun while it lasted

Well, I guess my roll of constant communication is over. The WiFi at the hostel has gone out and will not be up again until Monday. They still have the land based connection (that I'm currently using), but with 20 people and 2 computers, time is limited. Obviously, without WiFi I cannot get the photos from my computer onto the web either. :(

Today is an extremely boring day anyway. It's Saturday so I went to the farmer's market and bought some fruit, oil, bread, and purple potatoes (I hope they are as good as the Hawaiian ones - I miss those so much). After that I came "home" to shower (it's warm and sunny and an uphill walk from town) and wash clothes. I check out of the hostel on Tuesday morning and plan to volunteer at Eden Gardens again on Monday (this time I will actually tour the gardens and take lots of pics - which I may or may not get uploaded).

The good news is, I have found another place to live after Tuesday. I e-mailed a ton of hostels in the Auckland area this morning to see if any of them needed workers in exchange for a bed. Almost all of them said they were set or didn't do that. However, one replied back telling me I had perfect timing. They needed somebody to start Wed!!! I'm totally stoked. The hostel is located in another residential area so lots of parks and quiet nights. Their website (http://www.verandahs.co.nz/welcome.php) even shows a hammock on the grounds. I'm relieved to find a place to crash for the next couple weeks - definitely staying until June 1st- and will be happy to have something to do with my time here (though cleaning chores should only take a few hours). It also give me a place to have my IRD card sent! I'm extremely happy to not be spending $20 a day just hanging out too. I haven't given up job searching, but it will be more of a pain without WiFi. Wow, I really became addicted to the internet! I don't think this new hostel has WiFi either :( But, beggars can't be choosers.

Well, better check on my clothes. I'm lonely already without constant online stuff to geek on :(

Business and harbors

Photo's not yet uploaded - obviously:

I'm sitting in the hostel lounge, watching America's Next Top Model! Apparently America ships it's crappy TV overseas too. When I first arrived at the hostel, there were people in the lounge watching Dr. Phil!

Anyway, it was another beautiful day. Despite my late night I didn't sleep the day away. Over breakfast I talked with a couple from America and then I called IRD (Inland Revenue Department). All paperwork here in NZ is SO much easier than in the US. It's like the rules are just guidlines for them. I had to take a bus to get to the IRD department, but luckily I ran into the American couple on my way out and they told me about a website to find exactly what bus to take to get to your destination (think mapquest for bus routes).

The bus ride took about an hour. I disembarked at a mall and had no idea where I was. I decided to walk through the mall before asking for directions. I saw a sign for a carpark off of the street I was looking for. Sweet. So I went out and figured I'd worry about finding the cross street when I was a bit further from the mall. Imagine my surprise when I finished passing the outdoor restaurants and came face to face the IRD building! Super Sweet!

I decided to browse a bookstore on my back through the mall. I was quite surprised when I set off their theft alarm when I walked in! The cashier was nice about it and told me to come on in. I couldn't find a good star book. The one I have at home isn't great, but I wouldn't mind having it now. I found a book or two I could send to my mom, but not for $25 or $39. Sorry mom, your just not worth it ;) I also considered buying some wildlife/plant guidebooks but didn't want to spend the money or carry the book around while tramping. So when I went to leave the store, without buying anything, I stopped at the cashiers and apologized for the upcoming beeper going off and then swore that I did not steal any books. To all of our surprises, the beeper didn't go off this time. Wierd.

I rode the return bus to the very end of the line - the Britomart. Wierd name huh? It's a transportation depot for trains, buses, and ferries. So I decided to explore a part of the city I hadn't seen yet. I walked down the ferry terminal to the Maritime Museum. On the way, I came across these bags of art. Quite interesting. I didn't actually go into the museum. I'm sure it's very interesting museum, but not worth $16 to me. So I looked at the beautiful sailboats and yachts lining the docks. On the other side of the harbor were the working boats. I loved seeing this blue fishing boat. I'm afraid the AK doesn't stand for Alaksa though; I couldn't find an American flag on it :( On my way back down I saw this guy climbing his boats mast and saw it was in perfect composition with the sky tower.

I took a self portrait on my down the harbor, the sky tower is in the background. After further wandering I found the art museum. It was a small exhibit, since they are gearing up for a contemporary Maori art display, but it was still interesting. Next I wandered through a park, where I found a bunch of mushrooms growing in a magnoia tree. I also saw a black bird and a native rodent, but the images turned out kind of fuzzy :(

It was a good day, but I am exhausted. I'm not real sure why. I haven't been walking around that much! Although, I must be really getting some exercise. Many of my leg muscles are sore and my shoulders feel bruised from carrying my laptop everywhere (it may not be as heavy as my real pack, but it's good training the the shoulders). Guess I should eat some dinner and head to bed - but first, who's going to get eliminated from Am. Next Top Model??????

First night out

I headed up to The Bog, an Irish pub. Got a pint of guiness, read the paper, and then listened to the Dodgy Bastards play music. Since I've never been to Ireland, I will have take everybodies word for it that it was authentic. It was really fun. There was a lady there that used spoons as a percussion. It was great, they pulled her on stage for one song. She reminded me of mom. She was all smiles and happiness and 3 girls (daughters?) followed her to the stage and took pictures of her with the band. It was super cute.

I had one more pint, along with some water and then headed downtown. I wandered down Beach street and down Grove until I came to Queen. I wandered up Queen, looking at the lights and buldings. There are some beautiful buidlings in this city. I was kind of looking for a bar to pop into and use their toilet, but I finally came across the Town Hall. The doors were wide open, so I went in. After using their facilities, I found a playbill. Apparently is was a world premier! There were still people milling around, but I didn't stop to chat.

In an effort to keep from getting lost, I headed back down Queen street the way I came. I was entertaining myself with miscelleaneous things to make me smile - tyring to click my heels together (irish style), tyring to hit a sign when jumping, etc. I passed by a shop with lights so bright that I had to look towards the street. I just barely saw the sax player messing with his equipment in the doorway. A half block later the sax player started playing. I sat on a bench and listened to the music echo down the buildings. It was such a city sound; the traffic on my right, the saxaphone blues reverbing down the street. The only thing that didn't sit right, was the incredibly beautiful building across the street with golden McDonald arches all over it. What a waste. I went back and put some money in the sax man's case.

I continued down the street, eventually turning back onto beach street. Somewhere down the way, I got an "oi" and a thumbs up as someone drove by. I have no idea, but I raised my hand in acceptance of the props - it must have been the BSU jacket. Ya, that's it.

I wandred back up to Parnell street towards the pub. On my way, I came across a small park with a swing set. I had myself a swing under the moon and stars. After the swing, I got off and took a non-moving look at the stars. I made up seeing the hook of Maui attached to Scorpio. But really had no idea. I wandered further down the road. I saw a man coming out of the pub and asked if he knew the constellations. He was from the northern hemisphere too, so he was of no use. I then rounded the corner back towards the hostel and saw one of the men from the band. He recognized their one dedicated clapping audience and said hello. I asked if he knew the constellations. He didn't really, but he did show me the southern cross. No wonder that "kite" looked so familiar. I haven't seen it in 4 years, and then it was just barely over the Hawaiian horizon. Tonight it was half way up the sky. I'll have to buy a star book before to long.

All in all, it was a great night.

Day 2.5

Pretty mellow day. I still got up pretty early - 5:45. Did some stretches, ate some breakfast, and then geeked on the net until 8:30. Walked into town to open a bank account. National Bank is very local bank that caters to rural NZ farmers in particular. It seems that you generally have to be a Kiwi to bank there, but since I'll be here working for a bit they let me in. My morning was marred a bit when I found that it would take them a month to clear the cashiers check I had brought with me - for the express purpose of opening a checking account. I was so mad at my ID bank for talking me into using that kind of check rather than the traveler's checks I had asked for. They will be getting an e-mail from me expressing my extreme disappointment in their disinformation.

So, after that I needed the 1/4 mile walk back to the hostel to cool down a bit. I geeked a bit more on the computer and had a cup of tea. I tried calling my parents but got the message machine. I preferred reaching the machine instead of calling when mom wasn't there and talking only to dad. I would have felt bad for mom if that happened.

After a small lunch (wow, I don't eat much when I'm required to cook! Peanut butter on a pita bread! Hey, I was full afterwards.), I headed back towards town. On my I had to take a picture of the crazy tree and it's seed pods. The pods seem to be full of air and then apparenly break with white fluff attached to the seeds. Wierd.

I stopped in and checked out the Auckland museum for a bit, but didn't really get that into it. They do have some nice displays, I was just feeling a little to antsy to read everything. The Maori exhibit is amazing - of course.

I then headed to the tramping store I was at yesterday. I bought the pants I had set aside, but put several items back - since I wouldn't be seeing any money right away. Mom will wire money from my US account, so I'm not living on pennies, but it's a bit disconcerting to know that I am in a country all by myself and have only a couple hundred dollars. I know, I know - I'd be rich in some places.

Anyway, after buying the crazy cheap tramping pants I headed back to the hostel. I'm kind of burnt out on wandering the city aimlessly I guess. I passed an Irish Pub on my way back "The Bog" and saw that they have live music tonight at 9. I decided that would be fun to check out. Hopefully I can make till 9! I've been crashing out so early these last few nights. I tried taking a nap this afternoon after talking with my parents (yeah, I caught both of them at home), but I just feel like I have so much to do that I couldn't sleep. So I've been geeking some more. Vaguely looking for jobs, trying to find a couple couches to surf after I leave the hostel (http://www.couchsurfing.com/profile.html?id=461GA8F), and talking with my bunk mate about buying a car.

I absolutely hate the idea of owning another car and supporing the oil industry, but apparently it is the best way get around NZ, not to metnion finding all the hidden spots. So I'm dreading putting down the cash for that. Really makes me feel that I need to get a job sooner rather than later. I actually contacted an advertiser from http://www.backpackerboard.co.nz/. It was a position as a personal assistant in NZ. I would rock at that. So we'll see if I even hear back from her.

So my day has been mellow but somewhat stressfull. I could really go for a fun night out.

Rainbows, mushrooms, and work

Had a great first full day in NZ. Up at 5:30, walked through the park under the hostel, had breakfast, and headed out of the day. I had vague ideas of where I was heading (Auckland Museum, banking, etc), but never really ended up there. I wandered into several parks, they seem to be everywhere around here, which is really nice. It's a fun town to walk around in. It's built on the reminents of a bunch of volcanoes, so it's got hills - and great views - everywhere. The houses all look like they reside in little private jungles and the playground equipment is awesome!

After coming out of a neighborhood dog park, I looked up to find a beautiful rainbow! What a lovely thing to see first thing in the morning!

After coming out of the next park, I looked down and found a stump of tree with many mushrooms growing out of it.

I wandered up and down the steets (literally - hill after hill) for a bit. Stopped to pick up a chai latte and sat in a mini-park (Lundmans Green) between bustling streeets. 8:30 am and adults are going to work, children are going to school, and seagulls are looking for food.

I again started wandering the streets, still with vague ideas of things to do after everything finally opened, I even wondered if I could find a city map and walk up Mt. Eden. One street led to another and one direction would call to me more than the other. At 10 till 9, I had to make a detour to get off the street I was walking. It was crowded with boys of all ages headed to their school. I could see their beautiful school church on the hill ahead, and they all looked quite nice in the thier matching uniforms, but I just couldn't handle walking with all of them for another 5 blocks. This detour led to more hills and winding streets, eventually leading me to a sign pointing to "Gardens". I headed up that way. The two people at the curve of the road were quite friendly, the lady asked if I was there to work. I asked, quite surprised, if they had work. They had only volunteer work. I asked if I was looking at Mt Eden behind them, I asked how I could there. The man was heading out that way and offered me a ride. It turns out I could have easily walked, but I enjoyed the brief tour he gave me (pointing out the grand house where the Power Rangers was filmed - sorry now pics, but it was a huge estate with pillars and a tennis court).

Mt. Eden was beautiful. You can drive to the top, but I enjoyed walking the trail and passing the cows. Once at the top, you can look down into the crater of the old volcanoe. It's not far, and I had planned on taking the path to the bottom, but on my way around I found a sign asking that the sacredity of the crater be respected by not walking in it. However, the view of the city from the top is spectacular, of course.

I then took a shortcut back to Eden Gardens, via a set of stairs from one level of the mountain to the other. What a reminder of Juneau!

At Eden Gardens, Diane was very pleased to see me. I had come to help them plant tulip bulbs. How many tulip bulbs I planted is hard to say. They have 4,000 to plant, and we made a very good dent in that number today. It was easier than it sounds, since we were just putting them in pots and soil. The pots will then be planted, so they can be removed easily when the blooms are gone. I didn't get any monetary compensation for my work, but I did have fun talking with the ladies. They also served us tea, biscuits, and cake around 10 and then lunch at 1. It was a lot of fun listening to these ladies gossip in their accents over tea. I felt like I should be in London. I had planned to wander around the gardens when I was done working - it's 5.5 acres! - but I did want to get some things accomplished that I'd set out to do.

Diane gave me a lift to the trecking store all the ladies agreed was the best to visit. I came very close to purchasing new boots and some clearance item clothes, when I remembered I really didn't want to use my credit card overseas to much. It was a great reason to sleep on my purchasing decisions. Unfortunately I didn't have enought time in the day to find a bank and set up an account. I was so lost! I really had no idea where I was, where I had come from, and how to get back to Parnell. It agitated me a bit, mostly because I really do want to get a bank account opened. But I decided to let it slide, do it tomorrow and ask for directions. Oddly enough, I soon found that I was in front of the same store I had wanted to visit earlier this morning when it was closed - Macpac. I perused their items (why can't they put prices on their gear? is it really that expensive? how much could a fleece ear-flapped hat cost that they don't want to display the price?). After getting directions I remembered that I had seen an electronics store nearby this morning (again, it was closed when I was there because NZ working life is 9-5).

While walking up the street, the rain started. Not just the misty drizzle we had a couple times while potting tulips. This rain had a bit of substance! Not that it was pouring, but it actually made my hair wet while I was walking. All of the locals had umbrellas or ran from awning to awning. Me, I've lived in Juneau. It may be raining, but it was still fairly sunny and there was no breeze. I just wandered down the street as if the sun were out.

The rain had stopped when I left the electronics store (with a much needed cable, allowing me to charge my computer on a outlet). I followed the directions back to Parnell and found myself back where I had started my day - just under 12 hours earlier.

I have arrived!

I'm here! I'm in New Zealand. A year after applying for a working holiday visa and 2.5 years after moving back to Idaho to save for this trip.

It's really wierd to finally be here. I'm not super stoked. I'm not unhappy. I just am. I'm currently sitting on the top of one of 3 bunk beds in a med-large room. I'm sharing this single bed with all 1/2 my luggage at the moment. I have Hawaiian sand and Chilkoot grit on the bed sheet from unpacking by backpack. You can never fully get the inside of those things clean.

It's hard to believe that a little over 24 hours ago ( 31 hours to be exact) I was saying good bye to my family. They took it pretty well - until I got into the security line. My sister started crying. It made me feel pretty bad to see here teary face pressed against the glass divider after security. Her hand pressed against the glass if she were a child missing her mom :(

I talked to her 5 hours later, when I was in the armpit of LAX (Tom Bradley International terminal - ugh), she was feeling much better.

I spent the next 20 hours on a plane or in an airport. The 10.5 hour flight to Fiji provided me with dinner and lunch, as well as many entertainment options. I generally pride myself on sleeping on every plane I get on, but I had a really hard time sleeping on this overnight flight. Eventually I drifted into a deep dream. Just when the karate scenes were getting good, the intercom came on announcing breakfast. We landed in Fiji in the dark, but when we took off several hours later, the large mountains were glowing green and luscious. 2 hours later I was eating my second Air Pacific breakfast. Apparently the New Zealand ban on outside meats and egg products is taken very seriously. While the breakfast plate of egg log (like the egg round on fast food products), sausage, and fried potatoes was basically the same - the New Zealand destination flight was far uckier. I generally don't have much against airline foods. It's not great, but it's generally edible. I'm not sure that the meat log they called sausage was even edible. In looks and texture it reminds me of a vienna sausage. I'm not sure when I last ate a vienna sausage, but this particular piece had a flavor I can describe only as "unappetizing". However, the fresh fruit bowl, with yummy pineapple made up for the less than satisfying meal.

Finally, At 11:30 AM of Tuesday May 13th, I got my first glimpse of NZ.

Within 1/2 an hour of landing I was already through customs! They had so many agents ready to go that I had no wait in line. The visa process took 1 minute, they didn't even check to see that I had the required items for a working holiday visa (health insurance, sufficient funds, etc); heck, he didn't even want to see my travel visa!

So once I was out of the airport, a very nice shuttle driver put my gear in his van where a nice

Canadian girl was already waiting. When the van we full, we headed off to Auckland. The Canadian and I talked about the oddness of driving on the opposite side of the road and how neither of us had seen push button gears before (push R twice for reverse). I firmly believe that shuttle drivers in any country are scary. They tailgate, they speed, and they always seem to be half in the other lane. Add to that the driving on the opposite side and I was only slightly more worried than when we were being driven around in Mexico (only 2 months ago?).

I had to wait an hour for the hostel owner to get back from lunch, but I got checked in. I was told by the shuttle driver and Irish traveler returning from Fiji, that most all shops and restaurants close at 5 here. So I put off taking the a much needed shower (airplane air, 24 hours in the same clothes - I was feeling icky) and headed downtown. I wondered around for a time - found a couple banks I'll check out tomorrow and also an outdoor gear store (where I perused the clothes, but forgot to check for an outlet adapter! - to charge my computer!). Then it was back down Quay (pronounced "key") Street to the foodtown market and some supplies.

I managed to allow myself to look like a tourist in order to take a couple pictures of some downtown Auckland landmarks: The Sky Tower (Auckland's version of the space needle) and a Bungy contraption.