Back on the WWOOF again

Tuesday, 19 August

Whew, I’m tired. I just spent the day working at my newest WWOOF host; mostly clearing brush – hauling manuka (tea tree) up the orchard hill and piling it on the lawn. It was a good day for it, sunny with a good breeze to keep the sweat down, just got a bit boring after 5 hours! Before that massive project we were chopping up and pulling out thorny black berry bushes; that was fun except for the fact that he couldn’t find leather gloves. Wow, blackberries can go crazy if you let them! Of course, I knew it was going to be a long day when, within an hour of starting to work, we planted our first tree (poor thing got knocked over by the wind and then Rob just pulled it up – it has hardly any roots). We dug the hole, filled it with good dirt and compost, planted the tree, and then Rob decided he didn’t want it there! When I started digging the next hole (for a whole different plant), we got sidetracked with tackling the blackberries. The blackberries led to the manuka clearing, and, long story short – that poor, rootless tree is still sitting in a wheelbarrow full of dirt!!!

I’ve tried to start writing this blog a couple of times, but keep getting sidetracked or want to wait until I can get the names of towns correct. So, I’m just going to finish it up tonight and post it – get it off my mind so I can go back to being lazy, reading a book, etc.

Where we left off….. Opotiki (Tues –Wed; 12 – 13)
So, let’s see. Where did I last leave my readers? Ah, I was in Whakatane, on my way around the East Cape! That was on….. Tuesday, 12th August (ya, I had to consult my daily dairy for that – I don’t actually keep any of my blogs on my computer)

Since then, life has been good – not extremely interesting or wrought with adventures (or even hikes for that matter), but it has been full of really nice people…..

I left Whakatane shortly after posting my blog at the groovy internet café/music store. I had several CVs printed, as I had hoped to drop some off at the “swim with dolphin” stores in town. However, when I got to them they were closed; off-season I guess  So, slightly disappointed, I headed off down the road. I made a brief stop on the other side of the mountain, at Ohope, to walk the other side of the trail I hadn’t reached the day before. It was still an intermittently wet day (if you recall I wrote my last blog in the library during a thunder/lightening storm), but I managed to time the walk perfectly – reaching the car just as the rain started. As I walked up the beach to the carpark, I passed a surfer carrying his board. He looked to be heading up the trail and over to other bay.

Once I started driving I don’t believe I stopped again until I reached Opotiki (I can’t even begin to explain the pronunciation – which isn’t weird, it’s just blended together enough that I still stumble over it. Suffice it to say, it’s not “Opo tiki”).

Opotiki was a small, wet town. I topped up my fuel and then found the hostel I’d been considering – City Oasis or something (nope, I’m not going to look it up). It was a nice house with a fenced in courtyard/garden, feeling much like an oasis in the “city”. There were only 3 other people there – 2 of which worked in the kiwi fields. I was quite glad I wasn’t doing that – particularly in this weather. The German guy had been doing the pruning for 5 weeks or so. The German girl had arrived in NZ 2 weeks earlier. While she hadn’t come straight to Opotiki, she had been picking kiwi for the last 3-4 days. I felt fortunate that I wasn’t that hard up for cash. I took a walk down the main drag of town before dark – it was a bit wet, especially with the wind blowing the rain sideways under the eaves! When I got back, I opened my wine, had some dinner, and dried out while watching some Olympics.

The next morning (Wed, 13 August), I puttered around the hostel – packing, eating, watching the news – waiting for the i-site to open. I didn’t want to talk to the information person; I was interested in seeing the DoC office in the same building. The Department of Conservation (DoC) could be compared to the US Forest Service I suppose. They maintain trails and huts, issue park permits, and conduct research/restoration projects. I stopped into their office to ask about any volunteer work in the area (as they don’t generally have lots of paying jobs open (particularly for a short term worker on the holiday visa)). I filled out my application while talking with the lady. She was really stoked about my app, and said she would pass it around the tea table during morning tea. I met a couple other people while I was there too – all very nice and helpful.

I left the office with some vague directions on how to find the Ministry of Fisheries (MFs) office. I passed the area I thought it was supposed to be several times before I pulled in to a gas station for directions. The two counter people thought they knew where it was, but the customer just coming in the door pointed the street out to me. Again, I drove passed several times. I saw lots of warehouses, with many different types of business, but I could not see a MFs sign anywhere. I parked at another gas station (across the street from the one I had just been at) and walked over to the most open looking business – a woodworker specializing in cutting boards (they were beautiful). I asked him where the MFs would be. Not only did he tell me, he walked me over! He was super nice (obviously), introducing me to the MFs guy and then going back for his tea. I talked with the MFs guy for a bit before he asked if I had a CV. Why, yes, I did! How fortunate! He took a copy of my CV and then returned it (bonus for me – save $0.60 in printing). He wasn’t optimistic about his area, but said he’d definitely show my CV around. He also took the time to look up and print the office information for NIWA (a government science/research branch; probably like USGS). I stopped in and chatted with the woodworker again before I left – he wanted to know how it had gone. Then he gave me an area pamphlet and marked out the places that he liked to visit on the way around the cape.

As I left Opotiki, I knew I would remember it for all the super kind people in it. Due to all my errands, I didn’t leave the town until 11ish. There are not many walking tracks on the East Cape, just lots of beautiful coastal scenery. I enjoyed the way the mist and clouds hung over the mountains and draped the trees. It reminded me of Juneau. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to drive all the way to the tip of the cape and reach Hicks Bay. There was a hostel in the bay that I kind of wanted to stay at – I mean how could I not stay at “Mel’s Place”? However, I didn’t want to arrive late at night, so I looked in my hostel book again. I found Maraehaku Retreat (again, not looking up the name – sorry if it’s spelled wrong :) It was the “free kayaks” that convinced me to check the place out.

The hostel retreat advertised ocean front, but I was not expecting to be at the waters edge! I drove the dirt road past several farms and then found myself on a steep grade, staring straight into the ocean! Wow, I hope this place has a decent parking lot to turn around in!!!! The retreat was beautiful; expensive ($20 for a tent site!), but very nice. Pihi (the owner) had built the place himself. He had put tiles and shells in the walkways, stairs, and even the driveway. He wasn’t keeping the hot tub going, since there were so few guests, but he did have the free kayaks. After setting up my tent and gear I got into my bathing suit, but then put on my pants and long sleeved shirt – I didn’t want to get cold! Wow, talk about being overdressed! It would have been funny watching me get the kayak into the water. The sea was not calm, after all the storms that had been going by. After I had my self situated in the kayak I was ready to push off from the shore. I watched helplessly as the next wave broke right over the front of my kayak! So much for staying dry! (Don’t worry mom, it was a small wave and I had a life jacket on). After being drenched, there was no reason to worry. I paddled through a couple more waves and found myself in the a nice rocky bay. I had been told not to leave the bay, as the waves were to heavy, so I paddled across to the rocks on the other side. It was an easy paddle. The big swells were fun to ride – almost like surfing if you paddled with them, but a little unnerving if you were sideways when they came by – as I wasn’t confident, at first, that they wouldn’t tip me. It was a lot of fun, especially since it’s been so many years since I’d been in a kayak! I really should have stayed out longer, but after making it to one end of the bay all there was to do was to go back and forth between the ends– which didn’t really interest me. So, I decided to try my luck at getting out of the kayak. I must admit, I was a little nervous as I got closer to the waves crashing on the rocks next to my beach. If someone had been watching me as I dismounted and tried to pull the kayak up, they would have gotten a good laugh. Waves crashing, kayak rising and falling with the waves, Mel chasing after one slippa (flip-flop) and then the other. Wow, it makes me smile just to remember!

I didn’t kill much time kayaking. By the time I had showered and hung my clothes to dry (after washing the salt out of them) the time was only 2:30!!! I started wondering why I had chosen to stop so early in the day, but then decided the kayaking was well worth it and I really needed some time to mellow out. There was no reason to constantly be going. So, I sat and watched the ocean for a while. Eventually I socialized with Pihi and his family – son, friend, nephew. When the rains came, we played cards and drank coffee. They offered to feed me (baked beans on toast – apparently quite popular here, as my WWOOF host has suggested it to me too). I declined. I slept well in my tent that night (Wed, 13 Aug); the waterfall next to my site was easy to fall asleep to – the sound of the ocean just a meter or two away could just be heard over the rush of the waterfall.

Time Warp; previous blog writing (Thurs – Fri; 14-15)
The following was my first attempt at getting this blog going, it covers Thurs (14) and Fri (15) of August. Sorry for the odd skip – but I have no energy to re-write it in a more flowing manner:

Friday 15 August

Once again, I don’t have many adventures to blog about. I suppose I should be grateful, after all the misadventures I’ve had to tell. This morning finds me eating my soaked muesli while staring at the sun over the ocean. I ended up in Tokomaru Bay last night, having apparently passed several camping sights without notice (or not driving down the right road). I had kind of wanted to camp in order to save a bit of money, but found myself at another hostel. I arrived in time to catch a pretty nice sunset over the small little town and its ocean. When I woke at 1:30 am, I was kicking myself for not tenting. It really wasn’t as cold as it had seemed at 9pm, and the weather was fine. When I woke at 5:30 am, I was happy to be in a warm dry bed, as he winds were whipping through and the rain was pounding. Now, at 7:30 am, the sun is shining and my tent would be drying. Just goes to show, that the weather can’t be counted on!

I really don’t mind hostels. It gives me somewhere to spend the dark evening (since it’s black after 6:30) and there is usually someone to talk to; which has been particularly nice these last few days, since I’ve been feeling a bit lonely again. I really started getting used to being around and talking with the same people during my last few weeks. It has been weird leaving them all behind and setting out alone again. Luckily, the marvels of technology have kept me in touch with all my NZ friends (facebook and text messaging). The weather helps too. It’s amazing how much my spirits lifted yesterday when the sun came out! I have been driving around the East Cape (the big, remote hunk of NE North Island) the last few days. Not much hiking, but lots of good views – to bad I’m always driving! I visited the most eastern lighthouse in the world yesterday (Thurs, 14 Aug)! It was a 20km drive from the main road, but WELL worth it. The sun came out just before I turned off and stayed with me for the rest of the day. The mostly gravel, partly paved road was literally just feet away from the shore line. The ocean was still heavy from storms and pounded the rocks sculpted from ages of wave action. The majority of the beach line was flat, smooth bedrock! So cool to see! The water had formed little table tops rocks and jagged plateaus, creating massive splashes when the waves hit them. There were areas of clear sandy beaches too, and even some sand dunes as you approached the lighthouse.

When I parked the car, there were a couple of guys about to head up. We chatted a bit; they were locals from Tauranga off on a bit of a holiday. The walk up to the lighthouse consisted of a million wooden steps in the hill. Okay, probably not a million. Probably not even a thousand, but quite a lot – probably 500 or so (no, I didn’t even try to count). My legs were beginning to feel a bit like jello when I reached the top, though I was pleased at how nicely the steps were graded – not to steep or close together. I took my scenery pictures, but didn’t ask the guys to take my picture with the lighthouse. We ended up talking some more and I mentioned the “great walk” around Lake Waikeramoana I was thinking about doing in the next week. They told me it would be cold – the area gets snow in the winter. One of the guys (sorry , don’t remember their names now), pulled out his Garmin GPS and brought up the lake. Both of them did hunting and fishing in the area, so he showed me another lake right near by that he recommended. Pretty cool of him.

Although the sun was out, the wind was gaining strength. I headed back down the steps and into my greenhouse heated car. I stopped on my way back down the road and played on the bedrock beach for a bit – having a snack on one of the table rocks. I waved when the van with the kayaks on top drove by. The rest of the day was spent driving. I stopped at Roturia in hopes of getting Maori permission to hike one of their mountains today (Mt. Hikurangia), but the office was closed and there was no place to stay nearby (it was a super small, one street town). So, I drove on. The price of gas, and my desire to keep moving, keeps me from wanting to do much backtracking. I know I will be in the north island again – I have people to see and the Tongariro Crossing to hike – before I leave next May. So, maybe I can find someone interested in hiking this mountain with me someday. It is sacred to the Maori, with 9 carvings on top, and is supposedly the first place to see the sun rise in the world. I would like to the hike properly anyway – staying near the hut and walking up for sunrise. I wouldn’t have had time yesterday, it would have just been another hike today.

I suppose I should get packing. I hear from a texting source that the weather is supposed to be crap today; another storm coming in this weekend. So I should get my gear into the car while the sun is warm and the sky is blue (though that hasn’t prevented brief periods of rain while I write this). No real plan – just setting off again. Sometimes I think I move too much, but without having internet available (even for pay) I get antsy - would like to check notice boards again for new jobs. I will probably hit Gisborne today. As usual, I have no idea where I will be staying the night. Not sure when I will hit the Lake Waikeramoana area, even less idea what the weather will be like for it! But if I waited for the weather, I would never get anywhere!

Time Warp; Friday Night in a Small town (Fri - Sat; 15-16)
Okay – back to Tuesday’s (19th) writing:

Friday’s weather turned out to be pretty dang good. After a short drive from Tokomaru Bay, I found myself at the beginning of the Anaura track. It was FABULOUS. It started easily; flat, following a stream, wondering through lots of old, bare trees. It gradually started climbing up and over a hill, through beautifully open woods that made me just want to run and jump and climb trees. It reminded me of both Juneau and Idaho. My spirits were very much lifted. At the top of the hill, I could see the whole of Anaura Bay. Blue ocean, white sands, mountains on either end; very nice. The whole walk was so nice. The sun was out, but not too hot. The breeze was up, but surprisingly had a bit of warmth to it – a really nice change from the icy winds that dominate this winter. I’ve decided that, while I love the ocean and its hidden creatures, it’s the woods that sooth my soul.

After such a lovely walk I was feeling comfortable being alone again. I was stoked that I was going to be having all these adventures with only myself to hang out with. Funny how just a couple of hours, and many, many trees, make a difference! I was looking forward to my next stop, Cooks Cove track, and hoping the sun would hold out. I arrived in Tolaga Bay and found their historic wharf – supposedly the longest in the southern hemisphere (no, of course I don’t know the length of it!). I ate lunch, took pictures, walked to the end, and took some video of the waves crashing into the sandstone – slowly creating holes and arches in the rock. On my way back to the main highway, I stopped at the trailhead to Cooks Cove. I was disappointed to see that the track was closed “for lambing”. Only in New Zealand!! Ya, I should have taken a picture.

So, with no other points of interests or walks to stop at, I headed towards Gisborne. I had started to get used to the sun and was considering camping a bit – save some money on hostels. However, as I approached Gisborne, a massive black cloud was on the horizon (over the mountains) and I was suddenly driving in a downpour. Bummer. Guess I could stay at the backpackers in Gisborne – the Flying Nuns; it used to be a convent! When I entered Gisborne and stopped for gas, the sun was out again. The thick clouds I thought wouldn’t be dispersing anytime soon were now just fluffy white spots in the sky. Hmm, camping again? I drove around until I finally found the i-site. I talked with a very nice, informative lady. She told me about my camping options and then told me the Morere hot springs had tent sites for $9. Great! I would save $9 on shelter and quite a bit more on not being in town for a Friday night (as I had already planned to “network” the bars if I stayed in town).

When I reached Morere (which only consists of the hot springs and, across the road, a shop that runs the camp site) I was disappointed to find that their tent sites were $15! She had no idea where the i-site lady had been looking – maybe Mahia? Great…. So, I headed towards Mahia. I had heard, from someone I can’t think of right now, that there was a dolphin that had been hanging out around Mahia for the last year or more. So, I wasn’t really disappointed to be heading that way. I was disappointed when, after reaching the peninsula, I kept taking the wrong roads. Apparently there is only one camp area on the peninsula, and it isn’t in Mahia – it’s in Mahia Beach! I must admit, I was quite frustrated as I drove back down the peninsula. I had no idea where I was going to sleep, I was wishing I had stayed in Gisborne, and the sun was setting. However, I told myself it was no big deal , everything would work out. I stopped and took a couple pictures of the sunset and decided I’d just find a nice place to pull over and sleep in my car – it was off-season and this was a quite area (though I didn’t really like the idea of being alone in my car on a Friday night).

I drove into Mahia Beach, passed a Pub, and then came to the end of the road. Great, still no camp sites. I drove back down the main road and then took a turn near the store. It was there that I found the camping/hotel area. I stopped and talked with the owner. A tent site was going to cost $13. Cheaper than Morere, but still more expensive than sleeping in my car. I asked her about sleeping in my car – if it was safe, if I would get hassled. She said no one would care, since it was the off-season. She even recommended parking near the public toilets. I asked if it would hurt her feelings if I did that instead of staying there (yes, I actually asked her that). She said for $13 I could have a hot shower with her in the morning, or I could save my money and sleep in my car without a shower. I opted for the car. I had resigned myself to it earlier, and figured that after I hit the pub I wouldn’t care how uncomfortable it was! I parked my car, had a small dinner, made up my bed, and then walked to the pub.

I always get a bit nervous going into a bar by myself. I’m not sure why. I guess it’s not having that person to talk to right with you; the apprehension of if people will be friendly or chose to ignore you. My nerves were calmed as soon as I walked in the door. The bartender smiled at me as soon as I walked in and, before asking what I wanted to drink, asked where I was from. She was super nice, and started a good conversation as she poured my beer. As she was telling me about a good walk in the area, a guy down the bar chimed in too. This started my Friday night in the small town of Mahia Beach! I talked with Duncan for good while – he was a crayfisherman (lobster) and was more than familiar with Moko (not sure of spelling), the local dolphin. I had some great laughs and Duncan made me feel most comfortable- which was good, because a really drunk dude made me quite uncomfortable; putting his arm around my waist before even introducing himself!! Glen (I later found out his name) kept coming over and trying to talk to me, but he was so drunk that he was tounge tied. I knew he was married (she had ditched him at the bar in a huff actually), so I couldn’t figure out why he would be, creepily, hitting on me. While Duncan was at the other end of the bar talking with friends I started watching rugby. Glen came over and asked me to join him and his friend (a girl I’d seen him talking with). I told him I preferred to watch the game. Eventually, he told me he wanted to introduce me to his friend. I went over and met Tracey. Glen went off somewhere and she and I started talking. She had only met Glen and his girl (Angela) that night! We talked about how drunk and weird Glen was. It finally came across to me that she was lesbian. Oh… that’s why Glen, taking a good 5 minutes of pauses and stuttering, had asked if I was a lesbian. Glen wasn’t interested in me, he was interested in setting me up with Tracey!!!! How funny.

Once my comfort level was put back in place by the knowledge that Glen was going to leave me alone, I had a really great night. Tracey was a crack up. We spent most the night laughing AT Glen (not WITH him). A nice, local music teacher bought me a beer when he saw me holding an empty glass (of course I returned the favor later). When Tracey and I moved over to another table to watch the rugby game (Wellington, her home town, was playing), we met a bunch guys. They were all nice, from out of town. Eventually Tracey had to go home and take care of her pets (a girl pig named George and a girl Fox Chihuahua named Fred). I’m not certain, but I’m pretty sure that all the guys in the bar were a bit jealous to see the new female in town leave the bar with the local lesbian (although she describes herself as a fence sitter). Ha Ha Ha. We didn’t make it any easier for the guys by acting all lovey on the way out! It was quite funny.

Tracey’s rental house was just a block away from the pub and across the street from my car. So I moved my car into her yard. We danced to 80s music videos, played with her pets, and just had a good time (as we both knew there wasn’t going to be anything between us). While we were sitting outside laughing (probably quite loudly), Glen came stumbling up the yard. We watched him while we talked. Once he stopped walking, he fell down. He just laid in the yard for a while, right next to the pig. It was kind of funny to watch him get back up. Tracey asked if he was with me. I said I thought he was with her. We started laughing again. Eventually Glen made it up the steps to sit with us. He looked freezing – all hunched up in a t-shirt. I asked Tracey what we were going to do with him. She just happened to have a spare bed in the common room. She set him up with a blanket and pillow. He pretty much passed out while we continued doing our girly dancing thing. It was actually a pretty early night. I think I was zipped into my sleeping bag, in Tracey’s spare room, before 2 am!! It was a ton of fun though – and how amazing that the night I had no place to sleep, I end up with a bed and a new friend!

The next morning (Saturday 16th) I woke up fairly early. I couldn’t quite ignore the grunting of a hungry pig! I think Tracey felt bad that it woke me up, but I didn’t want to sleep in to late anyway – particularly if she wanted to get on with her day. However, since she’s semi-retired (she’s 41, taking time off after brain surgery and related problems), she had no plans. We hung out drinking coffee and talking for the morning. Glen woke up and eventually decided that he would start walking home (since he didn’t have a cell phone to call his pissed off girl). Tracey offered to drive him – which he was grateful for, since he lived down the peninsula (10+ km I’d guess). When we got back, I showered, packed up, and offered to do the driving. So, we took Fred and went to one of Tracey’s favorite beaches (a bedrock shore with flat rock way out into the sea). Tracey picked snails to boil up for dinner and I just wandered around. A flat beach is the perfect amount of outdoors for a morning after drinking (though I hadn’t really had that much). On the way back to town, we took a detour down the peninsula. Tracey showed me her marae (Maori meeting place). We couldn’t go onto the property, but she still pointed out the plantings her mom had done. Then we went to the cemetery where her mom and grandparents are buried. It’s a lovely setting, with pink flowers making a carpet of color around the graves.

When we reached town again we hit the pub for lunch. I was going to buy her lunch, in exchange for her hospitality, but I was extremely, extremely embarrassed to find that I had left my wallet in my car! Ya, it was only a block away, but that’s a bit far when you are ordering food! I felt so dumb. Tracey, of course, covered it. I think she figures it’s worth it, for giving the local gossips something to talk about! I’ll have to get her back when I come down from this mountain I am currently on.

Back to the present day (Tues; 19)
Hmm, that pretty much takes us to present day. I left Mahia Beach Saturday afternoon after lunch with Tracey. I arrived at my WWOOF hosts place, near Frasiertown – which is near Wairoa, which is S. of Gisborne - before sunset Sat. night. Rob Greenlander is a nice, vegetarian guy. He has a separate apartment for me to stay in!! It’s super cool, 2 bedrooms with one common room/kitchen which has a wood stove for heat. I’m starting to get the hang of “banking” my fire and keeping the place warm through the day. His neighbors have a cat, which hangs out up here more than it does at home. For the last couple of nights the cat has slept right next to me!! Gotta love that! It hung out with me all night Sunday (my second night here) as I worked on a puzzle and then went to bed. On Monday night (last night) he didn’t show up until I was about to go to bed. Then I heard a couple of loud meows. I let him in, then started messing with the fire. He started meowing from the bedroom – I guess it was bed time and I was supposed to be cuddling up with him! He’s super cute – yellow and white, super friendly and purring. The first night he stayed with me, I fell asleep to his purr and then woke up to his purr. It was really nice.


Whoa . Holy smokes, can this blog actually be 7 pages long? Yikes. How do I manage to write so much when I don’t have any real adventures to tell of? You can see why I just let Sunday and Monday slip by without much of a mention – they were quiet and boring and not worth the extra space!

Oh yeah - sorry, still no pics. My WWOOF host lets me use his internet everynight - but it's dialup. Loading yahoo takes forever, I'm not even going to attemp to upload a picture! :-(