I continued on to a free DoC (Department of Conservation) campsite at Deer Valley. I found a flat, grassy spot, set up my tent, and had an early dinner. The camp/picnic site was nothing to flash, but it wasn’t bad either. Being right off the highway traffic could be heard coming and going, but traffic was intermittent and generally the sound of the stream and birds were more prevalent. Sand flies were also prevalent, so I cooked my dinner in my long sleeved coat (despite the sun) and ate in my car! It was early, right around 3pm, when I arrived at camp. I was at a bit of a loss on what to do! I decided to head up the road a bit further and check out the walkway nearby.
21 March (Saturday): Waterfalls and a beach
I was heading for a town called Murchison. I had noted a couple of walking tracks from my guide book in the area. I was still undecided as to where I was going to camp. When I arrived in town I stopped at the visitor information center and had a chat with the guy there. Neither walk really sounded to terribly impressive and I was feeling a bit lazy. So, I decided to just keep driving. I had asked him about free camping and he had no suggestions, so I was quite annoyed when, a bit later (Gowanbridge maybe?), I drove past an obvious campground on a river. It was marked as a domain, so it was most likely free! However, it was far too early in the day to consider camping and I already had alternatives rolling in my head, so I continued on my way.
I had noted the campground at Kawatiri in my DoC pamphlet, but had early on decided that
Anyway – back to my trip ;-) I continued on my way to Motueka, where I stopped at the information center. I enquired about travel times to and within Abel Tasman National Park. I chatted with the friendly lady about other local attractions I must see and places to stay. When
I turned off of the highway at Takaka, drove some beautiful coastal roads through small towns, and then turned off onto a gravel road that wound through the mountains and down to the Golden Bay beach of Totaranui. Totaranui is one of the end campsites on the Abel Tasman Great Walk. My guide book had said that many people start at Marahau (eastern end) and tramp to Totaranui before catching a water taxi back. The guide book mentioned that, due to rough seas, water taxies don’t pick up further west than Totaranui; therefore, the section between Totaranui and Wainui inlet was less crowded with hikers. The guide book also said this section had some the most spectacular scenery on the trail! Since an 80 plus dollar water taxi ride was far out of my budget, I opted for camping 2 nights at Totaranui and just doing a day hike of the coastal track and out to the seal colony and light house of Separation Point.
22 March (Sunday): Abel Tasman National Park
This morning was beautiful. The rain had cleared in the night and the sun was clearing off some clouds. My tent was in the perfect position to catch the first rays of morning light (and heat). I had packed my day pack the night before with lunch, rain coat, and lots of water, which meant that I was on the trail by 8am!
From here, I walked through the bush on what I thought was a loop path! However, it wasn’t until I found myself overlooking the coast on the west side of Separation Point, on a trail that was marked for Whariwharangi Hut, that I realized I had missed the one way side trial to Separation point and was on the northern section of loop (I thought I was on the southern trail, with the Separation point side trip coming later). Oops! Nice that I had a GPS to help! :-) Anyhow, I started down towards the hut and beach, but then realized that I would just have to walk all the way back to the top of the rise I was currently on. That seemed really silly – given that the beach I would be seeing would yet again be covered in gold sand (now – if it was covered in green or red sand…. That would have been worth the effort!). So, I opted for going back the way I had come and saving my energy for the trip back to camp.
Hmmm, interesting. This cropped picture of my Elvis bird shows me that it has blue around its beak – under its eyes….. T
Anyhow – that’s pretty much my adventure through Abel Tasman Park. When I had first envisioned my tour through the park, I had thought I’d be hauling a pack or maybe hiring a kayak. However, I am quite pleased with the way things worked out. I got to see some great scenery, encountered cool wildlife, and did a bit of hiking. Ha ha, and to be honest I passed several groups of people on my return to Totaranui. They were all carrying big packs and looked tired. I was really content to not be them! Ha ha, I’m not a big fan of walking through sand; so walking through sand with a pack would pretty much be less fun that it sounds!
23 March (Monday): Snails and a goodbye spit
It sprinkled and rained throughout the night, but by morning the sky was clear and the sun was bright. I enjoyed the sounds of a bell bird and tried to catch a picture while I waited for my tent to dry. I took one last picture of the sandy Totaranui shores and then got a fairly early start out of the park - as I had heaps of places to see but also wanted to reach the Farewell Spit at low tide (which was to be around 2:30pm).
My first stop was Wainui Falls. While waterfalls are quite common here in NZ, I just checked the Golden Bay website (to find the name of this falls!) and found that waterfalls in this lowland area are far less common! Hmm... The waterfall itself wasn’t massively impressive. The information center girl I had talked to back in Motueka had told me to think of her, at this falls, videotaping her friend kayaking over the falls. While it wasn’t a terribly long drop from the top of the falls, I certainly couldn’t see the appeal of kayaking over it!!! Wacko!!! It wasn’t just a straight drop either, the rocks the water was rushing over gradually extended out into the pool below – making it appear to be quite hard on a kayak bottom (or maybe just hard on the bottom inside the kayak? ha ha ha). The short walk to the falls was quite nice, but the best reward on the trail wasn’t reaching the falls.
It was noticing a native land snail on the trail on my way to the falls! I knew immediately this was the largest, and fairly rare, carnivorous snail of New Zealand – Powelliphanta. It’s massive size and the purple color of its body told me it was definitely a snail to photograph. My trail guides had said to look for it on the trails in this area, but I’m not sure how one would actually go about finding one – unless you are lucky enough to stumble across it like me. Particularly since the DoC document I found online says they are nocturnal! I was fascinated by this colorful and not to slimy looking creature. DoC says it eats worms, other snails, and slugs. Wikipedia tells me that theses snails are endemic to New Zealand (found nowhere else) and are classified as endangered by DoC. I tried to pay attention on my way back down the trail, but apparently it had either moved on or gotten knocked out of the way by other visitors.
Next up was “The Grove”, a small little conservation area behind large amounts of farmland. The draw of this place is the massive rocks that create a surreal landscape, particularly since many of them are surrounded by the thick roots of the native rata tree.
Rata generally germinate and grow in the leaf litter collected in the branches of other trees. As the rata grows it sends roots down to find the ground. Here in “the grove”, the rata have germinated in leaf litter collected on the rocks, so the roots have wound around the rocks in their quest for soil. Some of the rocks in the area are massive – 3 times taller than me and sometimes creating a small walkway of towering rocks on both sides
– and some are small enough to sit on, but they are all weather worn into strange shapes and designs. It’s really quite a fun place to wander.
There was a cave in the area I wanted to check out, but, as I did have a tide time deadline, I opted to catch it on the way back from Farewell Spit. Well, actually I didn’t head straight to Farewell Spit. You can visit the sandy spit at any tide, I headed past the spit to the west coast. I drove straight to the Wharariki beach carpark, which was actually Puponga Farm Park – a massive farm land crossed by trails that connects the west coast and Farewell Spit points of attractions.
You could spend a full day wandering through paddock land and walking atop coastal bluffs. I, however, was mostly interested in seeing the exposed beach and rock formations of low tide. After walking through a bit of sheep land, I found myself crossing grass covered sand dunes.
These dunes appeared to spread for miles! I finally spotted the ocean and beach and headed over the dunes, stopping part way to take off my shoes and socks. The day was beautiful – blue sky, light breeze, warm sun. Apparently it was a rare day where the wind wasn’t coming straight off the sea in strong gusts. I walked down the beach, enjoying the large rock formations – caves, islands, and LOTS of arches.
While walking back to the car would have been more interesting if I had followed the beach again, I opted for the farm track. I was able to see the islands over the tops of the bush for part of the track. I also saw ducks and black swans in the dune lake; and lots and lots of sheep (not that they are novel to me anymore!).
On my way back down the gravel road, I picked up a guy that was heading to his car at the Cape Farewell parking lot – where I just happened to be heading. He turned out to be an Australian with an American partner. While he was from the Queensland area, he was quite confident that I wouldn’t have a problem finding a job in Perth. So that was nice to hear! He offered me a cup of tea when I dropped him off at his car, but I declined and headed to the cape. I had a brief chat with his partner on her way down the track – she had taken the more scenic coastal cliff walk back to the car – and then had a look around myself.
I’ve no idea how far above the sea I was, but I certainly didn’t want to take a header off the cliffs I was on! The whole coast, up to the point where the sand of the Farewell spit began, was lined with gray cliffs and caves. I had had grand plans of walking to the Pillar Point lighthouse, but then I saw how much downhill and uphill walking it required! I chose to go back to my car and park at the pillar point carpark!
The walk from the Pillar Point carpark still required quite a bit of uphill work in the sun, but took far less time and energy than wandering through hilly paddock land. The rocky landscape the trail took me through was quite nice too. At the top, I had a view out to Farewell Spit as well as out to
Wharariki beach. The lighthouse was again not impressive, the same white square structure I had seen on Separation Point.
Since I again wasn’t prepared to walk for hours, I returned to my car and drove to the Farewell Spit. The cafĂ©/information center was closed, so I parked at the lookout and walked up the hill. I had a good view over the bay side of the spit and back down Golden Bay.
The tide was still out, so everything looked like a mudflat, but it was still beautiful. I headed down to the spit and had a wander down the bay side of the spit – pretty much just mud flats with the tide out. The mud was littered with small clam shells and the occasional oyster catcher or white faced heron could be seen foraging; huh, I just found this picture too, a white faced heron with a pied stilt in front of it!
I spent the night in my tent at a holiday park in Port Puponga – right next to the Farewell Spit/Wharariki Beach road division. It was cheap, but nice holiday park. I was able to exchange a few books and get new reading material as well as charging my batteries and doing some laptop work (wow, I can’t even imagine what blog entry I was working on then!). The hosts and guests were lovely people, one guest shared the battered school shark he had caught with me! Apparently he had gone from staying one night to staying a full week here at the holiday park! He had gone surf casting with a local and caught this decent sized shark. He and the local had to look it up online to see what shark it was and if it was edible. I must say, I was slightly tempted to stay another night to try the barbequed version of the shark, but I knew I wouldn’t. The shark itself was really yum, very similar to a lite white fish – mmmmm, halibut!!! The guy (sorry, I don’t know if I ever got his name), was a Canadian with American mother. We had a good discussion about politics and travel.
24 March (Tuesday): Leaving the Farewell behindI got a fairly early start and headed back to the spit. I wanted to see what it looked like during high tide. The Farewell Spit, according to DoC, is a 25 km nature reserve and internationally-renowned bird sanctuary. Apparently 90 plus species of bird utilize this bit of sand – the longest spit in NZ. Because it is a bird sanctuary, individuals can only walk about 3 km out onto the spit. However, there are tour companies (two I think) that drive you out to the lighthouse and near bird areas. Whereas I had only
walked the bay side of the spit the night before, I started on the sea side this morning. To be honest, it wasn’t much more than a very sandy beach! I could see the cliffs that lined the coast to the west, but I couldn’t see much of the spit itself as it curved east. At the entrance to the beach, a sign was posted warning of quicksand near the cliff faces! This ocean side is where all the eroded west coast sand is deposited. Walking on the exposed tidal sand felt a lot like walking on new beach. Instead of having hard packed sand to easily walk through, I felt like I was wading as my feet sunk a half to full inch with every step. This deposited sand is blown east, by the prevailing westerlies, and creates the dunes that form
the spit. While the sun and constant trudging though the sand wore on me a bit, I did enjoy the group of oyster catchers that were collected on section of the beach. I took quite a few photos of them and their tracks. I was quite pleased when I finally saw the track that connected me back to the bay side of the spit.
Here, the mudflats were covered with sea water and the water was thickly occupied by black swans! Lots and lots of swans, stilts, and seagulls; even what may have been a couple of terns! When I returned to my car, I drove back to the lookout for pictures of the high tide view. I think the water forming a definite outline of the spit helps show the curve of the land – even if the land itself is so low that it blends into the ocean!
Having seen the spit at both high and low tide, I decided to head back towards Golden Bay and my eventual ferry trip home. However, I had a few sights left to see…..
My first stop was Te Waikoropupu Springs, generally referred to as Pupu springs for convenience! The DoC website says that Pupu springs is the largest freshwater springs in NZ and the largest coldwater springs in the southern hemisphere…..hmmm, I wonder where the largest hot water springs are? The springs are renowned for their clarity too; the spring bed is easily viewed and apparently some areas allow you to see the grains of sand being tossed up by the spring water. It was a lovely bush walk with excellent views of the spring.
The sandy spring floor created a beautiful turquoise blue, while the flora in the water provided a contrasting red, brown, or green. The water didn’t bubble at the spring, but ripples in the water let you know where the spring was. At a viewing platform, an interesting underwater viewing area was set up.
A plexiglass window gave a view through the crystal clear water. This view window was then reflected, by mirror, upwards to another mirror above the viewer’s head. By looking up into this mirror you were able to see under the water. It was interesting.
The trail wound away from Pupu springs and down Fish Creek and it’s springs. One area had a boardwalk over the creek itself, putting you in the heart of the springs area, surrounded by trees and water.
After the springs, I hit the cave I had skipped the day before – Rawhiti Cave. I had read that this was an exceptional example of flora influencing the formation of stalactites and stalagmites; that is, the rock actually curved out of the cave and towards the light! It was a shortish walk up a steep mountain (I ran into a girl that had left her friend to head back to the car, the friend said the girl had only been 10 minutes away!!). The effort up the track was well worth the experience though! I’m not sure what the cave dimensions are, but it is massive! The entrance itself is very large and open to the sun. I didn’t go down to the very bottom of the cave so I’m not sure how far back it goes, but apparently not very far. The reason I didn’t go too far down is because the trail is not well marked. I wasn’t worried about slipping, but I didn’t want to break any of the stalagmites with some ignorant step! The pictures from the cave entrance are really washed out because of the sun, but the ones from down in the cave are fairly good. There was mist coming off the rock formations just getting sun and the rocks inside the cave had a purple tinge to them.
1 comment:
keep em coming, you're still a month behind!
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