As I type this (Monday, 28 September), I sit in a TINY little sleeper compartment on the “Indian Pacific” train. We are currently stopped in Cook. We were allowed a 30-40 minute walk about this Nullarbor Plain ghost town.
I left Cunderdin on Sunday afternoon, 27 September. I had taken the train from Perth to Cunderdin twice before, but this Sunday was the first that I would see land further east of Cunderdin. “The Prospector” line ends in Kalgoorlie, home to a MASSIVE pit mine for gold (largest in the S. Hemi? The world?). The ride to “Kal” was easy. I alternated between watching the last half of the movie that was on when I boarded (“The Proposal”) and looking out the window at the flat expanse of bush, cropland, and salt lakes/river flats. I was a little sad and unsettled as I watched Cunderdin hill fade behind the train. While I was excited to start travelling again, it was weird leaving this little community that had been my only home in Australia.
However, I didn’t dwell too much on the emotions that I could be feeling. Instead, I settled into the movie, started an e-mail to Dave, watched another movie (“Bolt” – animated, really quite good), and then I drifted in and out of an uncomfortable sleep. I LOVE taking the train as transport.
On the previous two trips I’d taken on the “Prospector”, I had sat at the front of the car – with a table and bulk head in front of me. This time round, I was in the back. I was so impressed with how much leg room I had! So, so much more than on a plane. Also, I was impressed that I had a power point (outlet) right next to me! Every row of 2 seats on each side of the aisle had a power point! Impressive! And convenient, since it was a 5 hour trip from Cunderdin to Kal, another two from Perth to Cunderdin… most laptop batteries won’t last for 1/3 of the trip!
I was a little disappointed when I arrived at the Kalgoorlie train station. I was tired and feeling silly for having SO much stuff (one massive backpack, my computer bag, an extra duffle of clothes that wouldn’t fit (because my tent and sleeping bag take up half my pack!)). I had been hoping that a contact I had made at the pub would answer her cell and follow through on her offer of a beer or coffee while I was in town. Unfortunately, when I called I got her voice mail. A little dejected I decided I might as well walk about town. I had very much hoped there might be luggage storage at the station, but a long walk down and back the station found nothing. So, I headed up the street with all my gear.
The first pub I saw had security outside the door and good music seeping out the windows. The security guy checked with the manager and informed me that large bags were not allowed inside. Disappointed again (mainly to keep carrying my pack) I headed further up the road. I came across a large café/bar/lounge/coffee place that said it was open 24 hours. It was dead as when I arrived, but the guy told me that they get quite busy after all the other bars in town close – being the only place that sells alcohol 24 hours. I imagine that by the time people arrive at this place they are so used to spending money on alcohol all night that $8 stubbies (bottles) of beer is no large deal…. For me, it meant that I was going to be sipping my beer for a while!
At this 24 hour lounge (no idea the name, sorry), I read an interesting alternative magazine – part conspiracy theory, part meditation/pyramids information, and part global economics. I glazed over half of it, but got a good chuckle at other parts. Eventually I gave up reading and wrote a letter for a bit to kill the time. At midnight, I decided to head back to the train station. I knew my train left at 1:40am, but I figured I could boarded earlier. I had expected the train to arrive sometime after midnight, so I was stoked to see it already at the station when I arrived. A few guys sitting around told me it was the one and only Indian Pacific. It had been sitting there since 10:30 or so….. only half an hour after I arrived!!!! I was so bummed! If only I had sat and waited. I probably could have boarded right away and gone back out on the town (sans heavy, heavy bags). Oh, well. I was glad to have my pack off my aching (and I soon realized, sun burned - from the walk about Cunderdin earlier in the day with a tank top) shoulders.
I was so excited to have purchased a sleeper cabin for the rest of my 2 night, 1 day trip). Having dozed on the prospector seats, I knew I had made the right decision to spend more money for more comfort. I guess I’m not sure what I was expecting; I knew it would be a small compartment, but I knew that 2 people were able to sit (during the day, facing each other) and sleep (on the foldout bunks at night) comfortably. However, I was not prepared for the closet sized compartment I was shown too. It had only one bunk made up and so my hopes raised a little when I asked “am I sharing with anyone?” I was SO happy when the guy said I was supposed to share with an older lady, but they had given us each our own cabin.... THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! I probably could have hugged the guy! I mean, this thing is TINY – literally like being in a closet!
How small is it? Well, when I went down the hall to the toilet I had to wait while a lady stood outside her door. The halls are too small to pass anyone (except at the ends of the cars where you can squeeze by) so there was nothing for it but to have a laugh with the lady. She was waiting for her companion to switch from the top bunk to the bottom (or vice versa?). There wasn’t enough room for them to make the switch with both of them inside! When I got back to my compartment, I was again thankful that I had no stranger to step on, no top bunk on which to hit my head, and no need to try to consolidate my carry on bags into the narrow storage spaces provided (I’d say they are only slightly wider than the depth of a briefcase!).
After getting myself sorted, I got the bed ready and hopped in. It took me a while to fall asleep – as the station lights were right outside my window. I drifted in and out for a bit and then woke to the train starting up. I was surprised at how much louder the train was then I had expected. The gentle swaying I had been anticipating to rock me to sleep was more of an irregular judder. I slept far less well than I had expected; one time I decided to raise the blinds instead of just open them (I wanted to wake to the dawn, in case there were kangaroos or emu roaming about before settling in through the heat of the day). With the blinds raised, I was able to watch the stars over the unbroken blackness of the desert. I snoozed off and on throughout the night. I did wake to the dawn (5ish?). I tried watching for kangaroos (did I spot one just as I started looking…. Off in the distance?) but I gave up after a few minutes of watching the rock, scrub, and red dirt roll by. The slightly colored clouds weren’t impressive enough to bother looking for my camera, so I went back to sleep.
So… Cook. As I said, I got up a bit before 11. An announcement had been made about when we were arriving, when we were leaving, things to do and not do (don’t cross the tracks at anytime as freight trains pass without warning). I stepped from the train to the dry dusty streets of Cook and was immediately grateful for the Carlton Draught cap I had gotten from the pub (it was a promotional thing). The sun was beating down already, at 11:30. I was glad I had a light, long sleeved shirt on to protect the skin that had had a good dose the day before (though the red
heat had left my shoulders in the night). The slight, dry breeze didn’t do much to cool the sun, but it thankfully kept the flies from massing upon us. There really isn’t much to say about Cook. It used to be a largish community (with school, hospital, etc) to service the railways and their workers. However, in 1997 when the rail lines were sold, the community pretty much disappeared over night. The new owner needed only a few people to service and water the train daily, so the population of cook is now 5! I believe, from the story told over the train speakers, that it is a husband, wife, 2 kids, and grandma. I can’t imagine living with so few! And in the desert!
I walked to the front of the train first… had to get that picture :-) I had to laugh too, at all the people that were not only stepping into the railway in front of our train (which was obviously stationary), but at the people that were then continuing across the tracks… some people just never listen! Eventually an official did come and ask them all back to the other side, per what the announcement had said.
I spent the rest of the time walking about. Found some flowers to
photograph (see above photos), the primary school (2 photos up), a bird that didn’t cooperate well, a beautiful flowering tree that smelled a bit like jasmine, and more photos of the train. I stopped at the souvenir shop. I kind of wanted to buy something to support the small town, but when I saw all the people I knew one more purchase wouldn’t matter. However, I haven’t actually bought myself a souvenir (I have several from other people – and I think they mean more because of that). So – I opted for a Cook town tea towel…. I couldn’t resist the “population: 5” part of it!
And that brings me back to now… We’ve left the Cook station (several paragraphs back) now. Out my window I have a view of the flat, red Nullarbor plain –
rock strewn and covered in small blue/grey/green shrubs (reminds me a bit of small sage brush). I have a vague recollection of waking sometime in the morning (4-6) and viewing some hazy, brownish, mountains in the distance behind us – however I fell asleep again so fast I can’t actually say what I was seeing. If I had realized it would be the last landform for the next day, I might have tried to focus more ;-) ……
…… It’s 10 pm now, South Australia time (an hour and a half later than Western Australia time – I have NO idea why ½ an hour!). I spent the rest of my day typing an e-mail, sleeping till 5:30, having dinner in the dining car, and starting a book (nearly half way through now). After dinner I brought my bed up against the wall, allowing me to sit in a seat. Funny enough, I just tend to sit with my feet on the other seat anyway! LOL
Just a few more brief comments before I wrap this blog up. A short comment this morning by a lady in one of the compartments should be noted. She reckons it’s the worst train she has ever been on! I focused less on the why it was bad (I’m assuming size wise, as we were trying to get around each other in the curvaceous hall (it literally s curves down the car!). I asked instead what other trains she had ridden – Scandinavian (where I THINK she was from), European, even Chinese trains were better in her opinion! Interesting.
Also, the first thing I noticed – well, besides the obvious smallness – was the 50ish design, reminds me of art deco! The blue vinyl head rest was visible on one wall even with my bed down, the chrome lights and radio control, and even the drop down sink seemed a bit old school. My art deco theory was confirmed in the dining car this afternoon – where I had both lunch (cheap pastie) and dinner (pasta bake and veggies). The triangular light fixture with a cross between “speed lines” and “zigaret” designs line the walls above the windows.
All in all – it’s been a good experience. It was more money and time than taking the plane, but it was really a great way to experience how truly large the continent is. At the moment, I’m justifying my lowered bank account by telling myself trains are (supposedly) better for the environment than planes. Plus, I do enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of the train – no security, no being there hours early. Just show up, check in, and grab your seat…. Heck, you mom can even come on the train and see you off (as long as she isn’t on when the train departs!).
Kathy should be meeting me at the train station tomorrow. Her bus from Melbourne arrives an hour earlier than I do (and I arrive at 7:20am). I’m not sure the schedule of events from there. I know we have ferry to Kangaroo Island sometime tomorrow. We will stay there for 4 days, ferry back to Adelaide, catch an overnight shuttle to Coober Peedy (where many residents live underground and away from the harsh heat/cold of the desert…. It’s also the setting for the a Mad Max film; number 3 maybe?.... I do believe it is also the setting for the beat down of one of the characters in Priscilla, Queen of the Desert). After 1 night (2 days) in Coober Peedy it’s back to Adelaide on the overnight shuttle. I believe we have one night in Adelaide? Then Kathy flies out and heads to NZ, I head to a WWOOF host in the Adelaide hills…. Then, it’s just a short 3 weeks until my next train to meet mom in Sydney!!!!!
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