28 August 2008

Life in a Cloud

I suppose I could say it is raining, but really it’s just misting sideways….. The last few mornings have been like this. Rain throughout the night (sounded pretty substantial as I was going to sleep last night), but in the morning I open the curtain and find myself in the middle of a cloud. The nearby hills are barely visible, but the valley and mountains are obscured by the whiteness. The moisture just seems to hang in the air, until the breeze kicks in and makes it look like rain.

I am still living in my own little apartment. I just put the cat out. He came meowing at the door around 11:30 last night. I was awake and took pity on the fact that he was probably soaking wet. I was right, he was.

Life here hasn’t been bad. I can’t say that I’m happy here, but at least I’m haven’t been spending money on food and lodging. Rob keeps saying that God must have sent me to him; in order to give him motivation to start his house projects and to teach him about his computer/camera/printer. It took me a while to figure out why serendipity had led me to Rob. He had just arrived home from being out of town the night I called, enquiring about his need for a WWOOFer. He was able to have me arrive the very next day. He had lots of projects and dreams. I could probably stay here for a month and still have stuff to do! Recently, though, I’ve started getting antsy again. I have vague plans to meet up with a friend or two in Rotorua and I still really want to find a job. Just the other day I was particularly antsy about my status here. I was wondering if I had wasted my last 3 months by not getting a job during the winter and travelling more in the summer. This annoyed me. I hadn’t regretted any of my decisions until then, why was I starting? Then, during our noon break, Rob mentioned he had a friend in Hastings (right near Napier on the east coast) that needed a dog sitter in order to visit Rob. He said he thought I was a very reliable and trustworthy person, he would recommend me if I was interested. Hmmm? I took the rest of my lunch break and looked over maps and routes. It really didn’t sound like a bad idea. I had originally planned to bypass the whole Napier/Hastings/Hawke’s Bay area, maybe not getting back to it until next year, in order to hit Rotorua directly from the Lake Waikeramoana track. This new idea, however, would give me an excuse to check out the art deco architecture of Napier, as well as burning some time until my couchsurfing hosts were available in Rotorua. The route up to Rotorua from Hastings would avoid metal/gravel roads and take me through Taupo – into snowboarding territory and where Andy has recently acquired a job……

So, I guess serendipity led me here for a reason after all – to encourage my continued exploration of the country. I’m really quite happy for this development, and it’s served as a good reminder that I really can’t worry too much about what is going to happen next. Sure, I could have gotten a job as soon as I landed in Auckland; but then I wouldn’t have had any of the awesome adventures I’ve had. If I had made any of the alternative decisions offered to me during my travels, who knows where I would be typing this blog from! I’m sure that if I had never flipped that coin 2 months ago, which led me to the Northland area over the Rotorua area, I would have had just as many great adventures and met just as many wonderful people. However, I am so pleased that I have met the people I’ve met and done/seen the things I’ve done/seen – particularly swimming with dolphins!!!!!! Okay – that right there is reminder enough that I am SO glad I haven’t got a job yet!!!! J

As for my antsyness about getting a job – I am back in the “it will happen when it happens” mentality. I have been fortunate that Rob lets me use his internet nightly (and I just recently installed his DSL upgrade for him; making it easier to multi task), so I can e-mail and job search quite often. I can’t say I have a job lined up yet, but I have a lead or two – one of which is looking fairly promising…..

The one thing I am still uncertain of is the Lake Waikeramoana track. A large part of me wants to do this “great walk” while I am in the vicinity (1.5 hours away). The other part of me thinks the weather is going to be so wet that I may not enjoy myself to the full extent the track has to offer. Do to my cheapness, I would want to use my tent on the track (huts are about $25 a night, campsite ~$15 – the track would take about 4 nights). The problem is, even though we are on the verge of spring, the mountainous climate could still produce a hard frost or two while I’m out there; not to mention that the weight of my tent would grow in proportion to the amount of water it has absorbed! The other concern I have is my fitness level. Despite working outdoors for the last week and half (and I have the farmer’s tan to prove it!), I don’t feel any fitter than when I arrived. It’s been weeks since I’ve done any walking, let alone serious hiking. DoC (Dept of Conservation) responded to my e-mail enquiry about the track – saying it was a 9 our walk to the first campsite! I happen to know that you have to go over a pretty decent sized bluff in that 9 hours! If I did the track, I would probably stay at a hut (5 hour walk) that first night and start tenting it from there. I’m just not sure. Guess I’ll see what the weather is looking like as I get closer to a decision. Hmmm, maybe I should ditch the “great walk” for now and do the shorter walk at the lake right next door – Lake Waikareiti.

I know, I know; I just wrote, in the above paragraph, that I shouldn’t worry over what’s going to happen next. But hiking a multi-day trail does require at least a minimum amount of planning and forethought. The reason this decision is taking up so much of my brain (enough so to write about it here), is that I had planned on leaving Rob’s place Saturday morning/afternoon. Today is Thursday (28 August). So I need to figure out what I want to do. I need to be in Hastings for dog sitting by next Saturday (6 September). Rob would be more than happy to have me stay a few days longer if the weather isn’t conducive to hiking – he has really enjoyed the inspiration he gains from having someone around (good thing his girlfriend will be arriving from the Philippines in the next month). However, I’m getting antsy. I don’t do well sitting in one place for too long, at least when I’m not actually happy (which isn’t to say I’m unhappy here either). It’s just that I want to start exploring again. I also want to meet up with Tracey in Mahia Beach before heading south (yes, it goes against my anti-backtracking nature, but it’s not that far out of my way). I guess what I’ll probably do is just head to the lakes area and go from there. I can camp near the road and just do day hikes or, if the weather looks good, overnight trips. Hmm, I like that idea……..


HEY – this is the first blog, in a long time at least, that isn’t broken down into a day by day account! In fact, I couldn’t even see a reason to make headings! That’s probably because my daily life hasn’t been full of constantly changing townships and sightseeing adventures. Life here on top of the mountain has just been life. I eat, I sleep, and I work. Work has included digging holes for plants that haven’t been put in the holes yet (well, 2 days ago (Tuesday, 26th) we did transplant 3 flaxes, 1 pear tree, and even, finally, planted that poor native tree Rob dug up (with very few roots attached) my first day here!), weaving a privacy screen through a fence (using manuka branches from the trees cleared during my first day working here), and yesterday we finished cleaning out Rob’s garage! The garage was an excellent project during the times of heavier rain, as it required stacking a lot of wood and moving a lot of hoarded building materials. For the first time in over a year Rob is able to park his car in the garage! It’s nice to see some really tangible (and useful) results from my stay here. Lord knows that the fruit trees, which I had been expecting to plant when I first arrived here, are not any closer to making it into the ground than they were a year and half ago – when Rob bought them!

Actually – I shouldn’t make it sound like life here is all work and no play. Last week, during a semi-wet day (Monday 18 August), we drove into Wairoa (the nearest town). We did some errands there and then visited a couple of Rob’s friends – Tia will be moving to Wellington when she marries her boyfriend, so she gave me her number for when I am in the Wellington area (though she thinks my name is Bell J. Then, on Friday (22 August), after putting in a good days work of cutting up and moving the manukas, we drove into Gisborne. Rob had many, many errands to do in town and then we headed over to his friends place. Rob has a large bus there (as in greyhound style bus) that he has set up for touring - kitchen, couch, bed, etc. We had previously decided to stay the night on his bus, so after dropping our gear off we headed back into town. Rob shouted me an Indian dinner (shouting is buying a person/people something (usually a round of drinks) in the expectation that they will shout you back (generally in the same evening)– or, in my case, as expectation of continued hard work back home) and then we headed to his favorite nightlife scene – the Cosmopolitan Club. The club wasn’t a pub (which I just learned is short for public house! Man, I am so naïve in worldly matters ;), it was an actual members and guests only club. While Rob isn’t a member, he is regular enough to know the employees. Rob doesn’t drink, so I bought him his first ginger beer and bought my own beer. We only stayed for 2 drinks, but it was long enough to enjoy most of 2 sets by the band (“One, one, one”). They were a good band; like all the NZ bar bands I’ve seen, they pretty much just do cover songs; but there is nothing wrong with that. Just as Rob and I were ready to leave, we ran into Kevin and Isabelle, the friends who are allowing Rob to keep his bus on their property. They invited us back to their house for tea before we slept in the bus. They are lovely people who are very into their ballroom dancing –organizing weekly dances where people can learn and have fun. We watched some of their training videos, really quite interesting. They really wanted Rob and me to stay for their dance the next night – Saturday 23rd. Rob and I got up super early that Saturday morning and hit the local market and completed more errands. We both seriously considered staying the rest of the day and making the dance – since we ended up having lunch at Kevin and Isabelle’s – but in the end, we both opted out. I would have very much enjoyed going, but after a poor night’s sleep on a short couch I wasn’t sure I was up to 4 hours of exercise! I also was self conscious about wearing hiking boots to a dance! While I considered shopping for a new pair of dance shoes, I opted against spending my money and acquiring more things I would have to get rid of eventually. So, after making good progress on cleaning up the bus, Rob and I headed back to our mountain. I was very sorry to disappoint Kevin and Isabelle – as they are extremely lovely people who are very passionate about their dancing. I would very much have loved to try it, but……

Life on the mountain isn’t all work either – as can be seen by the mass amounts of picture I recently posted on this blog. There isn’t a whole lot to do here during down time, but that has given me the excuse I needed to get some good reading in! In fact, I haven’t read this much in ages…. I finally finished an adventure novel I started weeks and weeks ago (Black Arrow by Robert Lois Stevenson) , started and finished a decent sized (and very enjoyable) sci-fi novel (The Diamond Age by Neal Stephenson), and (for the first time in years) finished a fun little “brain-candy” novel only 2 days after starting it! (Blah Blah Black Sheep by Maggie Gibson). I really shouldn’t be reading books that I’m carrying around with me. I should be taking advantage of my hosts library while I can – but it’s a little late now! When I’m not reading, I have my laptop entertaining me with music and pictures. My screensaver is set to display random pictures from my computer (post it board style – meaning 4 smaller pictures at one time, rather than only 1 pic at a time). This feature always fascinates me for a good 5 minutes or more. It brings back such good memories of people and places from the states (and Mexico sometimes too). While it used to make me homesick to see images of my past life – my family, my cat, or my best friend’s daughter – now I just grin at the memory with only a twinge of longing….. Speaking of pictures – I’m going to start resizing some more so I can add them to this post (a friend of mine gave me some dimensions to aim for in my resizing , so I’ll see if I can do it properly this time!). They will all be images of Rob’s home – since I didn’t take any pictures while we were in Gisborne.

24 August 2008

Just a few more - cause I can

My WWOOF host just got DSL, so I'm loading up the pics! I still have a few more I'd like to share - but I've already wasted most the day! No work, cause it's windy and cold..... I should put these pics in the proper blogs, but no one wants to re-read the blogs just to look at pics! I tried resizing the images so they wouldn't be massive when opened, but apparently I have to try something different next time....



The longest wharf in the southern hemisphere!




Mahia Beach Pics

A pretty flower

and a pretty snail - "Cat's eye snail"

Can you find Fred on the pretty rock? Hint (Fred is a dog ;-)


And here is George



And Tracey, the fun loving owner of Fred and George



The bedrock beach on the way to the east cape lighthouse




Anaura Bay Walk






A few Pictures for your enjoyment

I SWEAR I resized these images. However, if you click on them, they still come up as massive, full page images. Guess I'll have to try resizing the canvas next time.

NATURAL BEAUTY!!!






King Fisher - beautiful Blue, eh?



















Monarch Butterfly















Blue Heron








Hawk, of some sort - digital zoom makes it kind of fuzzy.




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PEOPLE!
On the Trail - off Waihi Beach

Denny, with Marine in Background

Me, with Marine in Foreground






This one is for Lyle (ya, it was sunny and I did, eventually, dry out - but that water was still cold! And it got all over my back!)

Green Mussels - picked by Denny




















Tauranga!!!





Me (obviously) and a crazy log that looks like a litte dude!




Mt. Maunganui










Dave on the trail (for the first time in YEARS)










Enjoying the view from "The Mount"








Dave and his good friend, Matt. Matt is a Brit over on a working holiday also. He lives/works in Tauranga - for the moment.





RAINBOWS!!!






Over the gold mind and the town of Waihi






Ending in a real pit of gold!



















Rainbow over Waihi Beach

19 August 2008

Back on the WWOOF again

Tuesday, 19 August

Whew, I’m tired. I just spent the day working at my newest WWOOF host; mostly clearing brush – hauling manuka (tea tree) up the orchard hill and piling it on the lawn. It was a good day for it, sunny with a good breeze to keep the sweat down, just got a bit boring after 5 hours! Before that massive project we were chopping up and pulling out thorny black berry bushes; that was fun except for the fact that he couldn’t find leather gloves. Wow, blackberries can go crazy if you let them! Of course, I knew it was going to be a long day when, within an hour of starting to work, we planted our first tree (poor thing got knocked over by the wind and then Rob just pulled it up – it has hardly any roots). We dug the hole, filled it with good dirt and compost, planted the tree, and then Rob decided he didn’t want it there! When I started digging the next hole (for a whole different plant), we got sidetracked with tackling the blackberries. The blackberries led to the manuka clearing, and, long story short – that poor, rootless tree is still sitting in a wheelbarrow full of dirt!!!

I’ve tried to start writing this blog a couple of times, but keep getting sidetracked or want to wait until I can get the names of towns correct. So, I’m just going to finish it up tonight and post it – get it off my mind so I can go back to being lazy, reading a book, etc.

Where we left off….. Opotiki (Tues –Wed; 12 – 13)
So, let’s see. Where did I last leave my readers? Ah, I was in Whakatane, on my way around the East Cape! That was on….. Tuesday, 12th August (ya, I had to consult my daily dairy for that – I don’t actually keep any of my blogs on my computer)

Since then, life has been good – not extremely interesting or wrought with adventures (or even hikes for that matter), but it has been full of really nice people…..

I left Whakatane shortly after posting my blog at the groovy internet café/music store. I had several CVs printed, as I had hoped to drop some off at the “swim with dolphin” stores in town. However, when I got to them they were closed; off-season I guess  So, slightly disappointed, I headed off down the road. I made a brief stop on the other side of the mountain, at Ohope, to walk the other side of the trail I hadn’t reached the day before. It was still an intermittently wet day (if you recall I wrote my last blog in the library during a thunder/lightening storm), but I managed to time the walk perfectly – reaching the car just as the rain started. As I walked up the beach to the carpark, I passed a surfer carrying his board. He looked to be heading up the trail and over to other bay.

Once I started driving I don’t believe I stopped again until I reached Opotiki (I can’t even begin to explain the pronunciation – which isn’t weird, it’s just blended together enough that I still stumble over it. Suffice it to say, it’s not “Opo tiki”).

Opotiki was a small, wet town. I topped up my fuel and then found the hostel I’d been considering – City Oasis or something (nope, I’m not going to look it up). It was a nice house with a fenced in courtyard/garden, feeling much like an oasis in the “city”. There were only 3 other people there – 2 of which worked in the kiwi fields. I was quite glad I wasn’t doing that – particularly in this weather. The German guy had been doing the pruning for 5 weeks or so. The German girl had arrived in NZ 2 weeks earlier. While she hadn’t come straight to Opotiki, she had been picking kiwi for the last 3-4 days. I felt fortunate that I wasn’t that hard up for cash. I took a walk down the main drag of town before dark – it was a bit wet, especially with the wind blowing the rain sideways under the eaves! When I got back, I opened my wine, had some dinner, and dried out while watching some Olympics.

The next morning (Wed, 13 August), I puttered around the hostel – packing, eating, watching the news – waiting for the i-site to open. I didn’t want to talk to the information person; I was interested in seeing the DoC office in the same building. The Department of Conservation (DoC) could be compared to the US Forest Service I suppose. They maintain trails and huts, issue park permits, and conduct research/restoration projects. I stopped into their office to ask about any volunteer work in the area (as they don’t generally have lots of paying jobs open (particularly for a short term worker on the holiday visa)). I filled out my application while talking with the lady. She was really stoked about my app, and said she would pass it around the tea table during morning tea. I met a couple other people while I was there too – all very nice and helpful.

I left the office with some vague directions on how to find the Ministry of Fisheries (MFs) office. I passed the area I thought it was supposed to be several times before I pulled in to a gas station for directions. The two counter people thought they knew where it was, but the customer just coming in the door pointed the street out to me. Again, I drove passed several times. I saw lots of warehouses, with many different types of business, but I could not see a MFs sign anywhere. I parked at another gas station (across the street from the one I had just been at) and walked over to the most open looking business – a woodworker specializing in cutting boards (they were beautiful). I asked him where the MFs would be. Not only did he tell me, he walked me over! He was super nice (obviously), introducing me to the MFs guy and then going back for his tea. I talked with the MFs guy for a bit before he asked if I had a CV. Why, yes, I did! How fortunate! He took a copy of my CV and then returned it (bonus for me – save $0.60 in printing). He wasn’t optimistic about his area, but said he’d definitely show my CV around. He also took the time to look up and print the office information for NIWA (a government science/research branch; probably like USGS). I stopped in and chatted with the woodworker again before I left – he wanted to know how it had gone. Then he gave me an area pamphlet and marked out the places that he liked to visit on the way around the cape.

As I left Opotiki, I knew I would remember it for all the super kind people in it. Due to all my errands, I didn’t leave the town until 11ish. There are not many walking tracks on the East Cape, just lots of beautiful coastal scenery. I enjoyed the way the mist and clouds hung over the mountains and draped the trees. It reminded me of Juneau. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to drive all the way to the tip of the cape and reach Hicks Bay. There was a hostel in the bay that I kind of wanted to stay at – I mean how could I not stay at “Mel’s Place”? However, I didn’t want to arrive late at night, so I looked in my hostel book again. I found Maraehaku Retreat (again, not looking up the name – sorry if it’s spelled wrong :) It was the “free kayaks” that convinced me to check the place out.

The hostel retreat advertised ocean front, but I was not expecting to be at the waters edge! I drove the dirt road past several farms and then found myself on a steep grade, staring straight into the ocean! Wow, I hope this place has a decent parking lot to turn around in!!!! The retreat was beautiful; expensive ($20 for a tent site!), but very nice. Pihi (the owner) had built the place himself. He had put tiles and shells in the walkways, stairs, and even the driveway. He wasn’t keeping the hot tub going, since there were so few guests, but he did have the free kayaks. After setting up my tent and gear I got into my bathing suit, but then put on my pants and long sleeved shirt – I didn’t want to get cold! Wow, talk about being overdressed! It would have been funny watching me get the kayak into the water. The sea was not calm, after all the storms that had been going by. After I had my self situated in the kayak I was ready to push off from the shore. I watched helplessly as the next wave broke right over the front of my kayak! So much for staying dry! (Don’t worry mom, it was a small wave and I had a life jacket on). After being drenched, there was no reason to worry. I paddled through a couple more waves and found myself in the a nice rocky bay. I had been told not to leave the bay, as the waves were to heavy, so I paddled across to the rocks on the other side. It was an easy paddle. The big swells were fun to ride – almost like surfing if you paddled with them, but a little unnerving if you were sideways when they came by – as I wasn’t confident, at first, that they wouldn’t tip me. It was a lot of fun, especially since it’s been so many years since I’d been in a kayak! I really should have stayed out longer, but after making it to one end of the bay all there was to do was to go back and forth between the ends– which didn’t really interest me. So, I decided to try my luck at getting out of the kayak. I must admit, I was a little nervous as I got closer to the waves crashing on the rocks next to my beach. If someone had been watching me as I dismounted and tried to pull the kayak up, they would have gotten a good laugh. Waves crashing, kayak rising and falling with the waves, Mel chasing after one slippa (flip-flop) and then the other. Wow, it makes me smile just to remember!

I didn’t kill much time kayaking. By the time I had showered and hung my clothes to dry (after washing the salt out of them) the time was only 2:30!!! I started wondering why I had chosen to stop so early in the day, but then decided the kayaking was well worth it and I really needed some time to mellow out. There was no reason to constantly be going. So, I sat and watched the ocean for a while. Eventually I socialized with Pihi and his family – son, friend, nephew. When the rains came, we played cards and drank coffee. They offered to feed me (baked beans on toast – apparently quite popular here, as my WWOOF host has suggested it to me too). I declined. I slept well in my tent that night (Wed, 13 Aug); the waterfall next to my site was easy to fall asleep to – the sound of the ocean just a meter or two away could just be heard over the rush of the waterfall.

Time Warp; previous blog writing (Thurs – Fri; 14-15)
The following was my first attempt at getting this blog going, it covers Thurs (14) and Fri (15) of August. Sorry for the odd skip – but I have no energy to re-write it in a more flowing manner:

Friday 15 August

Once again, I don’t have many adventures to blog about. I suppose I should be grateful, after all the misadventures I’ve had to tell. This morning finds me eating my soaked muesli while staring at the sun over the ocean. I ended up in Tokomaru Bay last night, having apparently passed several camping sights without notice (or not driving down the right road). I had kind of wanted to camp in order to save a bit of money, but found myself at another hostel. I arrived in time to catch a pretty nice sunset over the small little town and its ocean. When I woke at 1:30 am, I was kicking myself for not tenting. It really wasn’t as cold as it had seemed at 9pm, and the weather was fine. When I woke at 5:30 am, I was happy to be in a warm dry bed, as he winds were whipping through and the rain was pounding. Now, at 7:30 am, the sun is shining and my tent would be drying. Just goes to show, that the weather can’t be counted on!

I really don’t mind hostels. It gives me somewhere to spend the dark evening (since it’s black after 6:30) and there is usually someone to talk to; which has been particularly nice these last few days, since I’ve been feeling a bit lonely again. I really started getting used to being around and talking with the same people during my last few weeks. It has been weird leaving them all behind and setting out alone again. Luckily, the marvels of technology have kept me in touch with all my NZ friends (facebook and text messaging). The weather helps too. It’s amazing how much my spirits lifted yesterday when the sun came out! I have been driving around the East Cape (the big, remote hunk of NE North Island) the last few days. Not much hiking, but lots of good views – to bad I’m always driving! I visited the most eastern lighthouse in the world yesterday (Thurs, 14 Aug)! It was a 20km drive from the main road, but WELL worth it. The sun came out just before I turned off and stayed with me for the rest of the day. The mostly gravel, partly paved road was literally just feet away from the shore line. The ocean was still heavy from storms and pounded the rocks sculpted from ages of wave action. The majority of the beach line was flat, smooth bedrock! So cool to see! The water had formed little table tops rocks and jagged plateaus, creating massive splashes when the waves hit them. There were areas of clear sandy beaches too, and even some sand dunes as you approached the lighthouse.

When I parked the car, there were a couple of guys about to head up. We chatted a bit; they were locals from Tauranga off on a bit of a holiday. The walk up to the lighthouse consisted of a million wooden steps in the hill. Okay, probably not a million. Probably not even a thousand, but quite a lot – probably 500 or so (no, I didn’t even try to count). My legs were beginning to feel a bit like jello when I reached the top, though I was pleased at how nicely the steps were graded – not to steep or close together. I took my scenery pictures, but didn’t ask the guys to take my picture with the lighthouse. We ended up talking some more and I mentioned the “great walk” around Lake Waikeramoana I was thinking about doing in the next week. They told me it would be cold – the area gets snow in the winter. One of the guys (sorry , don’t remember their names now), pulled out his Garmin GPS and brought up the lake. Both of them did hunting and fishing in the area, so he showed me another lake right near by that he recommended. Pretty cool of him.

Although the sun was out, the wind was gaining strength. I headed back down the steps and into my greenhouse heated car. I stopped on my way back down the road and played on the bedrock beach for a bit – having a snack on one of the table rocks. I waved when the van with the kayaks on top drove by. The rest of the day was spent driving. I stopped at Roturia in hopes of getting Maori permission to hike one of their mountains today (Mt. Hikurangia), but the office was closed and there was no place to stay nearby (it was a super small, one street town). So, I drove on. The price of gas, and my desire to keep moving, keeps me from wanting to do much backtracking. I know I will be in the north island again – I have people to see and the Tongariro Crossing to hike – before I leave next May. So, maybe I can find someone interested in hiking this mountain with me someday. It is sacred to the Maori, with 9 carvings on top, and is supposedly the first place to see the sun rise in the world. I would like to the hike properly anyway – staying near the hut and walking up for sunrise. I wouldn’t have had time yesterday, it would have just been another hike today.

I suppose I should get packing. I hear from a texting source that the weather is supposed to be crap today; another storm coming in this weekend. So I should get my gear into the car while the sun is warm and the sky is blue (though that hasn’t prevented brief periods of rain while I write this). No real plan – just setting off again. Sometimes I think I move too much, but without having internet available (even for pay) I get antsy - would like to check notice boards again for new jobs. I will probably hit Gisborne today. As usual, I have no idea where I will be staying the night. Not sure when I will hit the Lake Waikeramoana area, even less idea what the weather will be like for it! But if I waited for the weather, I would never get anywhere!

Time Warp; Friday Night in a Small town (Fri - Sat; 15-16)
Okay – back to Tuesday’s (19th) writing:

Friday’s weather turned out to be pretty dang good. After a short drive from Tokomaru Bay, I found myself at the beginning of the Anaura track. It was FABULOUS. It started easily; flat, following a stream, wondering through lots of old, bare trees. It gradually started climbing up and over a hill, through beautifully open woods that made me just want to run and jump and climb trees. It reminded me of both Juneau and Idaho. My spirits were very much lifted. At the top of the hill, I could see the whole of Anaura Bay. Blue ocean, white sands, mountains on either end; very nice. The whole walk was so nice. The sun was out, but not too hot. The breeze was up, but surprisingly had a bit of warmth to it – a really nice change from the icy winds that dominate this winter. I’ve decided that, while I love the ocean and its hidden creatures, it’s the woods that sooth my soul.

After such a lovely walk I was feeling comfortable being alone again. I was stoked that I was going to be having all these adventures with only myself to hang out with. Funny how just a couple of hours, and many, many trees, make a difference! I was looking forward to my next stop, Cooks Cove track, and hoping the sun would hold out. I arrived in Tolaga Bay and found their historic wharf – supposedly the longest in the southern hemisphere (no, of course I don’t know the length of it!). I ate lunch, took pictures, walked to the end, and took some video of the waves crashing into the sandstone – slowly creating holes and arches in the rock. On my way back to the main highway, I stopped at the trailhead to Cooks Cove. I was disappointed to see that the track was closed “for lambing”. Only in New Zealand!! Ya, I should have taken a picture.

So, with no other points of interests or walks to stop at, I headed towards Gisborne. I had started to get used to the sun and was considering camping a bit – save some money on hostels. However, as I approached Gisborne, a massive black cloud was on the horizon (over the mountains) and I was suddenly driving in a downpour. Bummer. Guess I could stay at the backpackers in Gisborne – the Flying Nuns; it used to be a convent! When I entered Gisborne and stopped for gas, the sun was out again. The thick clouds I thought wouldn’t be dispersing anytime soon were now just fluffy white spots in the sky. Hmm, camping again? I drove around until I finally found the i-site. I talked with a very nice, informative lady. She told me about my camping options and then told me the Morere hot springs had tent sites for $9. Great! I would save $9 on shelter and quite a bit more on not being in town for a Friday night (as I had already planned to “network” the bars if I stayed in town).

When I reached Morere (which only consists of the hot springs and, across the road, a shop that runs the camp site) I was disappointed to find that their tent sites were $15! She had no idea where the i-site lady had been looking – maybe Mahia? Great…. So, I headed towards Mahia. I had heard, from someone I can’t think of right now, that there was a dolphin that had been hanging out around Mahia for the last year or more. So, I wasn’t really disappointed to be heading that way. I was disappointed when, after reaching the peninsula, I kept taking the wrong roads. Apparently there is only one camp area on the peninsula, and it isn’t in Mahia – it’s in Mahia Beach! I must admit, I was quite frustrated as I drove back down the peninsula. I had no idea where I was going to sleep, I was wishing I had stayed in Gisborne, and the sun was setting. However, I told myself it was no big deal , everything would work out. I stopped and took a couple pictures of the sunset and decided I’d just find a nice place to pull over and sleep in my car – it was off-season and this was a quite area (though I didn’t really like the idea of being alone in my car on a Friday night).

I drove into Mahia Beach, passed a Pub, and then came to the end of the road. Great, still no camp sites. I drove back down the main road and then took a turn near the store. It was there that I found the camping/hotel area. I stopped and talked with the owner. A tent site was going to cost $13. Cheaper than Morere, but still more expensive than sleeping in my car. I asked her about sleeping in my car – if it was safe, if I would get hassled. She said no one would care, since it was the off-season. She even recommended parking near the public toilets. I asked if it would hurt her feelings if I did that instead of staying there (yes, I actually asked her that). She said for $13 I could have a hot shower with her in the morning, or I could save my money and sleep in my car without a shower. I opted for the car. I had resigned myself to it earlier, and figured that after I hit the pub I wouldn’t care how uncomfortable it was! I parked my car, had a small dinner, made up my bed, and then walked to the pub.

I always get a bit nervous going into a bar by myself. I’m not sure why. I guess it’s not having that person to talk to right with you; the apprehension of if people will be friendly or chose to ignore you. My nerves were calmed as soon as I walked in the door. The bartender smiled at me as soon as I walked in and, before asking what I wanted to drink, asked where I was from. She was super nice, and started a good conversation as she poured my beer. As she was telling me about a good walk in the area, a guy down the bar chimed in too. This started my Friday night in the small town of Mahia Beach! I talked with Duncan for good while – he was a crayfisherman (lobster) and was more than familiar with Moko (not sure of spelling), the local dolphin. I had some great laughs and Duncan made me feel most comfortable- which was good, because a really drunk dude made me quite uncomfortable; putting his arm around my waist before even introducing himself!! Glen (I later found out his name) kept coming over and trying to talk to me, but he was so drunk that he was tounge tied. I knew he was married (she had ditched him at the bar in a huff actually), so I couldn’t figure out why he would be, creepily, hitting on me. While Duncan was at the other end of the bar talking with friends I started watching rugby. Glen came over and asked me to join him and his friend (a girl I’d seen him talking with). I told him I preferred to watch the game. Eventually, he told me he wanted to introduce me to his friend. I went over and met Tracey. Glen went off somewhere and she and I started talking. She had only met Glen and his girl (Angela) that night! We talked about how drunk and weird Glen was. It finally came across to me that she was lesbian. Oh… that’s why Glen, taking a good 5 minutes of pauses and stuttering, had asked if I was a lesbian. Glen wasn’t interested in me, he was interested in setting me up with Tracey!!!! How funny.

Once my comfort level was put back in place by the knowledge that Glen was going to leave me alone, I had a really great night. Tracey was a crack up. We spent most the night laughing AT Glen (not WITH him). A nice, local music teacher bought me a beer when he saw me holding an empty glass (of course I returned the favor later). When Tracey and I moved over to another table to watch the rugby game (Wellington, her home town, was playing), we met a bunch guys. They were all nice, from out of town. Eventually Tracey had to go home and take care of her pets (a girl pig named George and a girl Fox Chihuahua named Fred). I’m not certain, but I’m pretty sure that all the guys in the bar were a bit jealous to see the new female in town leave the bar with the local lesbian (although she describes herself as a fence sitter). Ha Ha Ha. We didn’t make it any easier for the guys by acting all lovey on the way out! It was quite funny.

Tracey’s rental house was just a block away from the pub and across the street from my car. So I moved my car into her yard. We danced to 80s music videos, played with her pets, and just had a good time (as we both knew there wasn’t going to be anything between us). While we were sitting outside laughing (probably quite loudly), Glen came stumbling up the yard. We watched him while we talked. Once he stopped walking, he fell down. He just laid in the yard for a while, right next to the pig. It was kind of funny to watch him get back up. Tracey asked if he was with me. I said I thought he was with her. We started laughing again. Eventually Glen made it up the steps to sit with us. He looked freezing – all hunched up in a t-shirt. I asked Tracey what we were going to do with him. She just happened to have a spare bed in the common room. She set him up with a blanket and pillow. He pretty much passed out while we continued doing our girly dancing thing. It was actually a pretty early night. I think I was zipped into my sleeping bag, in Tracey’s spare room, before 2 am!! It was a ton of fun though – and how amazing that the night I had no place to sleep, I end up with a bed and a new friend!

The next morning (Saturday 16th) I woke up fairly early. I couldn’t quite ignore the grunting of a hungry pig! I think Tracey felt bad that it woke me up, but I didn’t want to sleep in to late anyway – particularly if she wanted to get on with her day. However, since she’s semi-retired (she’s 41, taking time off after brain surgery and related problems), she had no plans. We hung out drinking coffee and talking for the morning. Glen woke up and eventually decided that he would start walking home (since he didn’t have a cell phone to call his pissed off girl). Tracey offered to drive him – which he was grateful for, since he lived down the peninsula (10+ km I’d guess). When we got back, I showered, packed up, and offered to do the driving. So, we took Fred and went to one of Tracey’s favorite beaches (a bedrock shore with flat rock way out into the sea). Tracey picked snails to boil up for dinner and I just wandered around. A flat beach is the perfect amount of outdoors for a morning after drinking (though I hadn’t really had that much). On the way back to town, we took a detour down the peninsula. Tracey showed me her marae (Maori meeting place). We couldn’t go onto the property, but she still pointed out the plantings her mom had done. Then we went to the cemetery where her mom and grandparents are buried. It’s a lovely setting, with pink flowers making a carpet of color around the graves.

When we reached town again we hit the pub for lunch. I was going to buy her lunch, in exchange for her hospitality, but I was extremely, extremely embarrassed to find that I had left my wallet in my car! Ya, it was only a block away, but that’s a bit far when you are ordering food! I felt so dumb. Tracey, of course, covered it. I think she figures it’s worth it, for giving the local gossips something to talk about! I’ll have to get her back when I come down from this mountain I am currently on.

Back to the present day (Tues; 19)
Hmm, that pretty much takes us to present day. I left Mahia Beach Saturday afternoon after lunch with Tracey. I arrived at my WWOOF hosts place, near Frasiertown – which is near Wairoa, which is S. of Gisborne - before sunset Sat. night. Rob Greenlander is a nice, vegetarian guy. He has a separate apartment for me to stay in!! It’s super cool, 2 bedrooms with one common room/kitchen which has a wood stove for heat. I’m starting to get the hang of “banking” my fire and keeping the place warm through the day. His neighbors have a cat, which hangs out up here more than it does at home. For the last couple of nights the cat has slept right next to me!! Gotta love that! It hung out with me all night Sunday (my second night here) as I worked on a puzzle and then went to bed. On Monday night (last night) he didn’t show up until I was about to go to bed. Then I heard a couple of loud meows. I let him in, then started messing with the fire. He started meowing from the bedroom – I guess it was bed time and I was supposed to be cuddling up with him! He’s super cute – yellow and white, super friendly and purring. The first night he stayed with me, I fell asleep to his purr and then woke up to his purr. It was really nice.


Whoa . Holy smokes, can this blog actually be 7 pages long? Yikes. How do I manage to write so much when I don’t have any real adventures to tell of? You can see why I just let Sunday and Monday slip by without much of a mention – they were quiet and boring and not worth the extra space!


Oh yeah - sorry, still no pics. My WWOOF host lets me use his internet everynight - but it's dialup. Loading yahoo takes forever, I'm not even going to attemp to upload a picture! :-(

12 August 2008

A weekend in Tauranga

I am currently sitting in the Whakatane public library; hiding from the strong winds and occasional rains. I keep thinking the sky doesn’t look that bad, light colored clouds and currently no rain. However, since I just sat in my car listening to rolling thunder, catching flashes of disco light out of the corners of my eye, and wondering if the pounding hail was going to leave dents in my car; I am not going to hold out any hope of getting much outdoor adventures done today!

I came to the library expecting some free internet access (as I heard from the i-site), but found it was $2.50 per 15 minutes. So, I’ll just write up a quick blog, update my resume and cover letters, and use up my 60 minutes of parking before moving over the i-site – which definitely has free internet. I sent out a couple of WWOOF requests yesterday at the i-site. Then I heard the weather forecast (rain, rain, rain) and decided I had better get my butt in gear and enjoy the cloudless day while it was still around! I found an excellent coastal walkway, with spectacular views, good up and down hill terrain, and quite a bit of cultural history.

I don’t really have many adventures to blog about – so will give a brief recap:

I left Athenree Hot springs (where I had spent 4 nights tenting) on Friday morning (8 August). I had hoped to hike some trails, but the rain and lack of 4 wheel drive made me change my mind. When the sun came out again, I had a lovely coastal walk through a small beach town (can’t find the proper spelling of it). I drove into Tauranga and walked around town. If I hadn’t had plans to meet Dave and his friends (Matt and his girlfriend, Jess) for a beer and band, I probably would have driven straight through the town. It’s a nice town, quite big but not as massive as Auckland. The downtown district is definitely designed to rake in the money – fancy shops line most streets, while the bars are all lined down the waterfront. I took a hostel that was right downtown, to prevent taxi fares and drink driving (yep, they call it drink driving here). I had a really fun time for my entire weekend in town. I really enjoyed having people to go to the bar with on both Fri and Sat night. It would not have been my scene if I was alone – even in the bitter cold, super young girls were walking around with short skirts, tank tops, and no coats!!!!

So, it was a weekend of clubbing at night and walking during the day. Had planned to walk Mount Maunganui Saturday (9 August), but the cold wind and persistent rains deterred us. It cleared up enough for a lovely walk down the harbor estuary though. We were able to meet Matt for some yummy Indian food before our next night of drinking. While I had as many beers that night as Friday night, I felt WAY better on Sunday than Saturday. I had drunk a ton of water with dinner and after I got back to the hostel, so I was lacking the headache I had on Saturday. I was definitely better prepared for trekking “the mount” Sunday morning (10 August). The weather was better suited for trekking also. While the strong wind had a ridiculous icy bite to it, the sky was almost cloudless. All of the locals were on the beaches, in the cafes, and cruising their cars. It was SO crowded! I can’t even imagine being there on a typical summer day, when all the tourists and Auckland vacationers are in town! The mount was really nice. Only ½ an hour to get up it, taking the more steep, but way more rustic, trail. Just fantastic views. We met Matt again for smoothies and beach walking.

It was a really good time in a town I would otherwise not have seen. Upon first arriving, I had a bit of a mishap with locking my keys in my car (you guessed it, the spare was in there too), but my luck was insanely good and a fantastic motel owner helped me out. I felt like the luckiest girl in the world at that time (I think that was my 3rd mishap, so I should be set for the next few months!). I was very proud of myself for not getting upset. I just laughed about it and enjoyed the rainbow over the city, before setting off to figure something out.

I left Tauranga pretty early on Monday morning ( 11 August), catching some sunrise picture before leaving. I had thought I’d set towards Rotorua and the bubbling pools of mud, but then changed my mind at the last minute and headed towards the east cape. I stopped 15 minutes outside of Tauranga (after making it through rush hour traffic) and walked up the Papamoa hills (Matt had mentioned them the day before). It was a beautiful day; slight wind, but not bitterly cold, with only a cloud or two in the sky. I made it to the summit, and then wandered around – using the steps over the electric fences to wander various paddocks and get different views. I took massive amounts of sheep and lamb pictures! Imagine my surprise this morning (Tuesday, 12 August) when I turned the newspaper page and found a picture of a ewe and her lamb! Ha ha ha. The brief side bar accompanying the picture was stating that the presence of lambs in the paddocks was a sign that spring was well on its way! So why is it hailing?!

Well, the rain has stopped. The wind has settled a bit. I’m in an internet café ($3 for ½ an hour), listening to good tunes and vaguely looking for a job – man, I hate doing that. Picked up some WWOOF phone numbers on the East Cape area, may give them a call tonight. I am printing a few CVs to drop off when I enquire in town. I think I like not looking for a job, because then I’m not disappointed when I don’t get one! I would like to find one here shortly though, so I can be available when mom comes to visit in January. I suppose I can’t just leave everything to fate, some things have to be worked at. AAAAHHH, I hate job searching though!!!!!

07 August 2008

I'm losing my head! (among other things)

A day to myself (Monday, 4 August)

I have met so many wonderful people here in New Zealand! Beginning with my first bunk mate in the Verandah’s dorm (a talkative German girl) and continuing to the caretakers of my current tent site (a cute British couple – Sue and Wayne). I can’t believe how lucky I am to have pretty much every person I talk with be genuinely nice! I know I won’t remember half of them; such as the 2 ladies at the Waihi information center today who were so lovely I had to go back and show them my rainbow pictures from my walk; but their presence during my trip means the world to me. I am also so appreciative of the people that I have met and been around for longer than a day. I like knowing that I do actually have friends around the north island that I could call up and would be happy to see me. That is so cool!!!

I had a great time travelling Coromandel with Andy and I really enjoyed hanging out with him on my last night in Thames (Sunday 3rd). We had tea and biscuits, talked about New Zealand travels, played chess, and watched his snowboarding videos (which were a riot with his commentary). I won my first game of chess! Okay, so I won against an opponent that was paying more attention to what pictures they were taking from me and putting on their CD than they were to the game – but that’s not the point. I won!

I also had a wonderful time hanging out with Dave during my return to Thames. Good music, lots of internet, and a really fun ride in a really fast car on a very curvy road - just to have a sunny Sunday lunch in a town that wasn’t Thames (we went to the beach town of Whangamata). I also enjoyed talking with Denny at the hostel so much, that when I found he was going to have Mon – Wed off work I came really close to staying in Thames so I could have some adventures with him too. However, my travel bug was really starting to get to me. I had felt so trapped by the floods in Coromandel and had seen how sucked into Thames Andy had become, that I decided it was time to go.

The weather forecast for the week was sunny with intermittent showers. Go figure! So I wasn’t discouraged when I woke up to sun, packed my car, and then found it raining. I was up early enough to catch Denny, just coming off his night shift at the hospital, and Andy was up early enough to catch me; so I got to say farewell to my roommates. As I drove out of Thames (cloudy, but mostly blue skied), I completely enjoyed listening to my ipod, holding Dominic on my lap, and being completely alone! It was so nice. I drove behind a slow truck without caring about my speed, let the now familiar landscape pass by, and just absorbed the happenings of my latest adventures. I loved that I didn’t have to ask Andy whether or not we should stop and check out some more trails in the Karangaheke gorge (which I didn’t do) or just head to my initial destination of Waihi. I loved that I didn’t have to talk to anyone or that I didn’t have to listen to anyone. I just put on my one headphone (my tape player spits out my adapter after an hour – I’m not sure if it’s illegal to drive while wearing earphones here in NZ (I think it is in the US?), but I figure since my ipod puts music out of only one earphone anyway, it shouldn’t matter to much) and enjoyed non-crappy music (which is the majority of my tape selections).

When I arrived in Waihi, I found a parking lot and walked through the town looking for the i-site (information center). It’s a cute little mining town - from what I saw of the main drag. I had a vague idea of some walks in the Waihi area and knew that the largest pit mine in the southern hemisphere was located here, but I figured the i-site would help me orient myself and give me some more ideas. The first thing I noticed when I entered the building was a wall of handmade scarves and hats! I had purposely not brought a warm beanie from “The States”, figuring I’d just buy a locally handmade one. I hadn’t yet come across a selection that really caught my attention, but with the cooler nights we’ve been having and the possibility of my travels to Rotorua and maybe Taupo, I was definitely going to need a warm hat. I took 3 hats into the back and tried them in front of a mirror. I really liked the brown one, but figured it was close to the same color as my hair – so I went with a beautiful mint green color. As I was paying, I told the lady how pleased I was to be buying something not only handmade, but local as well. I mentioned how I had knitted before and but never really did hats. Then the lady sitting in back came over and told me that not only was it handknitted, but the wool was handspun too!!! Wow. I was impressed. I definitely felt that $15 was a bargain!

With my new hat in my bag, my camera over my shoulder, and my waterproof tucked through my pack I walked across the street, up some steps, and checked out the pit mine. Yep – the mine is right there in town! I figured I wouldn’t bother checking it out because it would be in the hills somewhere, but it’s just over a hill at the end of town! I took a bunch of pictures of an old mining building and marveled at how industrially destructive humans can be. The pathway around the mine wasn’t completely open, but I decided to walk as far as I was allowed. I was fortunate to run into a couple and their kid when I reached the roped off mining truck. Both parents got a chuckle when I asked if they would take my picture with the “really big truck”. I continued around the mine, watching empty trucks go down the road and full ones come up. I was a little disappointed that they didn’t go anywhere near the bottom though (which had a small lake of water in it). The trucks were going about 1/3 of the way down and being loaded with previously blasted rock off the side of the pit. I was expecting to see a long line of trucks slowly descending in a circle until they became really small and then disappeared into a tunnel; but I guess that’s not how it works :)

I threw my waterproof on when it started to rain (glad I wasn’t fooled by the lovely blue skies and fluffy clouds that were around when I got out of my car!). As the rain cleared, I looked across the mine and back to area where I had started. I was completely surprised to find a rainbow hanging directly over the town and mine! It was amazing – particularly because I could see the rainbow descending into the mining pit! I could actually make out the rainbow colors in front of the orange and yellow of the pit walls! I made myself laugh out loud for a good while when I realized that what I had just seen would probably be the only time I could ever say that I had seen a rainbow that LITERALLY ended in pit of gold!!!!

As I mentioned earlier, I stopped back at the i-site on the way out (it was just across the street afterall) and shared my rainbow pics with the ladies there. They got a good laugh out of my pit of gold at the end of the rainbow. When I got back to my car, I hadn’t decided where I wanted to go next. I kind of wanted to do the black hill trail – to get a good view of the town and city – but I kind of wanted to travel a bit further too. So I filled up on gas – the price was back down to $2.02 a liter! – and checked out the map. I decided to head to Waihi beach. There was a tent symbol in the area of the waterfall symbol, so I figured it would be a good place to end the day.

I hadn’t been driving for more than 5 minutes, when I came across a couple of hitchhikers. While every seat in my car had something on it (it’s really hard to keep things organized when you always want the thing that is buried at the bottom!) I could just pass them buy in a seemingly empty looking vehicle (I had stuff spread around the car, instead of piled to the roof). The two young locals were happy I stopped, and had no problems squashing in (the dude in the back didn’t even have a place to put his feet!). I think they were disappointed to find that I was only going to the Waihi Beach turnout when they were going far past to Katikati – but they took the ride anyway. So, after another 5 minutes of driving, I dropped them off at the corner of the Waihi Beach intersection. I hadn’t taken them far, but they were happy to be past the intersection so people that stopped for them would be going their way. The two of them reminded me of the 2 local boys Andy and I picked up near Colville. We drove them and their dog less than ½ a km! They were happy to not walk , plus they got to enjoy some chocolate biscuits!

When I got to Waihi Beach I checked out the trail map and decided I had time to make it to the falls. Then, instead of continuing forward and past the map – where the logical beginning of the trail would be – I went back to the white trail maker with a picture of a walker and a dog walker. The trail wasn’t too bad; muddy enough that I should have put on my hiking boots and not my trail runners, but not wet enough to soak through my shoes. The trail took me past a car park at the end of a road and then seemed to end at a reservoir with picnic tables. I walked up the gravel road, only to find a “please don’t trespass” sign for the reservoir. So, I tried walking around the reservoir – not trail. So, I walked down the hill, across a concrete bridge, up a steep muddy slope, and found what looked to be a decent trail – though it wasn’t marked and it was a bit overgrown. I followed it until it ended in a decent stream. I walked back and forth trying to find a way to not get my feet wet. I finally made a jump for it, barely landing on a muddy ledge and holding onto a tree. Unfortunately, instead of scrambling up I looked down. I found my left foot under water. Moving it led to my right foot going under water. Well, so much for dry feet! At least my trail runners would dry out in a day of sun, unlike my hiking boots. The path was in considerably better condition after crossing the stream, but still had good patches of swamp. But, with wet feet already, I didn’t bother avoiding them too much.

If I was disappointed when I arrived at the reservoir (from the lack of signage I knew I was definitely not on the waterfall path), I’m sure you can imagine my disappointment when I realized I was on a loop path around the reservoir! When I came back into the clearing and sat at a sunny picnic table (spreading my wet socks and waterproof out to air) I couldn’t figure out how I had missed the trail that was just to the left of the gravel road. Oh well, I probably would have gotten my feet wet trying to cross the stream from the other side as well :)

Instead of going back through the woods, I followed the streets through town for a bit. I found the carpark at the end of the street I had first passed on my walk and caught the trail back to the beach. I then went past the waterfall map and found well-marked trail sign I would need. I knew it was to late to make reach the waterfall and make it back before dark, so I decided to check out the camping area listed on the map. After sitting under a canopy of trees while the latest rain shower passed, I walked up the beach to my car and found another full rainbow spreading over the ocean and town!

I drove back through Waihi Beach and turned towards Bowentown and the tent sign. Apparently I hadn’t really looked at the geography of my map, because I was surprised to find myself passing turnouts and beach access on both sides of the road! I hadn’t realized I was driving out onto a spit of land that projected into Tauranga Harbor. At the end of the road was Bowntown. I parked in the Bowntown Domain (domains and reserves are what I would call a park) and walked around a bit – along the rocky shore line, up the grassy hills. I was rewarded some good overviews of the town and ocean.

I drove back to the “camping” area – which was just a place for motorhomes and cabin rentals. At $17 a night for a tent site I decided to look elsewhere. I’d rather pay $5 more and keep my tent dry in a hostel. I decided to check out the Athenree camping symbol next. I drove back down Bowentown spit and turned onto another spit of land. I passed another camping/family park set up like the one I had just left – but this one was also a hot pool! I decided to check their rates. I felt pretty good about paying $17 a night for a tent site when I had access to not only hot pools and kitchen, but also to a trampoline! I decided to spend a night – though they did let me know about their 4 nights for the price of 3 deal. I just couldn't see staying in the area for THAT long!

I talked with Sue while I petted the cat – samba. Turns out they came over in January, toured the country and Fiji for 3 months, and then found the gig at this place for work. She was super nice and invited me to watch a thriller/horror DVD with them that night. Sweet! I hadn’t been there more than 10 minutes and I had already made friends! I set up my tent (which had dried nicely between a sunny airing in Coromandel and being laid out in my car) and made my bed. I found that I had left my little travel pillow back in Thames! Ugh, bummer. Well, good thing I know people in Thames!

After sending several texts (involving minor lunch bribes), my pillow problem was resolved. Andy and Denny were going to head over in the morning to hike the waterfall, deliver my pillow, and enjoy the hot pools. The rest of my evening was spent taking photos of the sunset, jumping on the trampoline, talking with Sue and Wayne in the hot pools, and watching “The story of Lucy Keyes” (a decent flick, though not amazing). I managed to be either in the TV room or in my tent when the intermittent rains came, so I stayed warm and dry all night long!

I get by with a little help from my friends (Tuesday 5 August)
My first morning at camp started off bright and early. I didn’t get into the hot pools, but I did get my blog updated and took some pictures of black swans - which I guess are so abundant around here that they use them for target practice :( I texted my friends and found they were planning on staying in the area, since they wanted to use the hot pools. So, I took the owners up on their 4 nights for the price of 3 – since they let me use the previous night’s payment towards it. I didn’t make it far from Thames before settling, but at least I now had hot pools and a trampoline – while still finding cool people to hang out with.

After finding the correct car park, I met up with Andy, Denny, and Marie. Marie was on a 20 day holiday from France. It was her 3rd day in NZ! She had planned on hiking to the pinnacles hut, but there weren’t enough people for a shuttle to run up there, so she came down with Andy and Denny. We had coffee and cake on the sunny, though rather windy, beach and then set off towards the trail. We weren’t certain if the times they had written were 1 way or return times, so we figured we’d just see how we felt when we reached the 1st fork.

The coastal trail took us through green bush, around spectacular rock outcroppings, and past viewpoints overlooking the green ocean and blue sky. It didn’t take us long to reach the first sandy bay. We played on the beach for a little bit; I’m certain that if I hadn’t known about the strong current one or two people would have been in the water! When we reached the fork in the trail that led us to either the waterfall or next sandy bay, we opted for doing both. We headed to the next sandy beach first. It was a much longer walk with a slightly muddier trail. There were only 2 landslides to cross and a bit of storm debris to step over. We had all been using our waterproof coats as a windbreakers, but, with a peal of thunder out over the ocean, we needed them to keep dry through a short bout of rain. By the time we reached our next bay, the sun had been out for a bit and was drying the plants off again. We sat on some cool rock formations overlooking the beach and ocean. Denny collected green mussels for dinner. I stuck my head in a waterfall on the edge of the beach.

It was getting late by the time we returned to the fork in the trail leading to the waterfall, so we just kept heading towards the car. Everyone was looking forward to soaking in the hot pools after our day out. It was 5:30, we had plenty of time before the 7:30 closing time. Just we were approaching our cars, I put my hand back to unclip my key from my belt – AND…… IT WASN’T THERE!!!! WHAT. How the heck did I lose it? Why didn’t I put it in my pack pocket? What was I going to do now? EVERYTHING was in my car – including my pillow!

I decided to head back up the trail. I had a head lamp and I didn’t want my friends to miss the hot pools. I would call them – using Andy’s phone, since mine was in the car, if I couldn’t find the key. I started down the beach, trying to follow our tracks. When I got to the start of the trail I ran into a nice guy and asked if he had seen a key on a bright orange carabiner. He said he hadn’t. It was getting dark fast and I was tired. I called Denny, told him I was coming back to the car and would look for the key tomorrow. I rechecked the tide area on my way back to the van, feeling confident that they wouldn’t be pulled into the ocean overnight. When I got back to the van I was feeling really dumb. After losing my BSU jacket on the trail I was going to start paying more attention! Both Marie and I remember me playing with my key on the trail too! I was certain I had it after the fork to the waterfall (on the way back to the car that is). ARGH. I was so mad that I wasn’t really paying attention to where we were going. While the boys were at the grocery store, Marie asked about friends that might know how to get into a locked car. I didn’t have my phone on me, wouldn’t have known who to call. Then it occurred to me; Dave is a total gear head, he might know. Luckily Dave and Andy had exchanged phone numbers recently, I started texting as we left the grocery store. Pretty soon, Denny and Andy wanted to know if they were headed the right direction. It was dark, nothing looks familiar in the dark. When we hit Bowenhead Domain, I could confidently tell them we were not where we were supposed to be. We went back. Next thing I know, we are at the highway 2 intersection – which is not where we were supposed to be. Turn around again. I stopped texting Dave and paid strict attention to the road (Dave had a few ideas, but none that would work real well for my car). I have absolutely NO idea how they missed all of the blue signs pointing towards Athenree on our first loops, but I made sure they didn’t miss it on our return. We arrived at the hot pools with ½ and hour before close! I felt so bad for wasting everyone’s time.

All I can say is – I am one lucky girl. Not only were my friends not annoyed or angry, they actually gave me a beer and cooked dinner! When my friends checked into the camp, the owner gave them each $2 off, “since you are Mel’s friends”! That was really nice! I didn’t have a swim suit (in the car to dry), so I just sat next to the hot pool while everyone else relaxed before closing. After everyone dry and hungry, we went into the kitchen. Denny cooked the mussels in white wine and canned tomatoes. We didn’t have much to go with the mussels other than bread, which went excellent with the wine/tomato soup. I must admit, I’ve never been a huge fan of any shellfish that wasn’t battered and fried. Oysters straight of the grill, done up by Alaska Dave, have been the only ones I’ve ever enjoyed – and even then I can’t eat a lot of them. The green mussels, while not tasting bad, were a bit chewy and a little odd. Apparently you’re supposed to pull the “beard” out before eating. This led to me examining the thing I was supposed to eat a little too closely. Ugh, so gross looking. Poor Marie. She doesn’t even like mussels! She said she was fine with the bread and cheese she had. She doesn’t drink beer either, so she just had water. Poor girl.

After our simple meal, we cleaned up the kitchen. I ran into Sue just as she was getting up from a nap. She was getting ready to set up the DVD player if we were interested. I’m not sure everyone else really enjoyed it (Denny went to bed half way through), but I had a good time watching “Hairspray”.

For some reason I had put most everything from my tent into my car, including my pajamas. Andy gave me a pair of track pants, but I was so dirty from our day out that I didn’t want to wear them only to give them back for a washing. So, I slept in my boxer shorts and overly dirty t-shirt (it had still been dirty from my day hike in Te Aroha many days previous). My feet never fully warmed up, but the rest of me was quite warm – once I pulled all my draft cords tight in my sleeping bag. Marie, unfortunately, didn’t have a sleeping pad to keep the ground cold from getting to her. She was wearing trousers and several shirts, but never did get warm during the night L. Andy and Denny were toasty in the van.


Payback is sweet / Lady Luck watches over me
(Wed. 6 August)
Everyone, particularly Marie, enjoyed the hot pool in the morning. There was a water aerobics class full of older local ladies. If I had had a swim suit I probably would have joined. But since I didn’t, I just put my feet in the hot tub for a bit and watched the ladies do their circuit around and around the pool.

After a bit of discussion, it was decided the best plan was to call AA (automobile association), have them open my car so I could get the spare key, and then we could all do whatever we wanted. Andy was an AA member. As long as his car wasn’t with me when he called, he would be able to get the car unlocked for free.

I was a bit disappointed when the boys stopped at the grocery store for lunch. If they waited just a little longer I would have a wallet and could buy everyone lunch. At the beach (still sunny and still windy) we had a bit to eat while we waited for the AA guy to show up. Within 5 minutes of his arrival, my car was unlocked and the spare key in hand! So simple! Now only if I everyone was still hungry! Somehow we got on the subject of ice cream. Not one person in the group had eaten ice cream in NZ! Denny had been here for a year! So, we walked down the beach for a bit and then into town. I bought everyone an ice cream cone and we sat on a bench in town. Denny – being the total hippie – warmed his bare feet in the sun while telling me about a German treat called spaghetti ice cream (vanilla ice cream pressed out to look like noodles, topped with strawberry syrup, and coconut - so it looks like spaghetti, tomato sauce, and parmesan!).

After our sweet treat and a look around the “op-shop” (thrift store) we headed back to the beach. Denny took out his sugar high by dancing down the street, then got us to see if we could click our heels together in the air. He and Andy played leap frog on the beach before Denny stole Marie’s video camera and got goofy footage of us all. I practiced a few French phrases. Since I can only remember a few things at a time, I gave up practicing “I love you” – as I won’t be needing it anytime soon. Instead, I focused on remembering a very important phrase – “F***ing Seagull sh*t”. ha ha ha Yep. My mom is proud right now J I think Marie got quite tired of hearing it too!

Eventually, the day started to fade. My friends still had to get back to Thames (an hour away) and they wanted to see some sights on the way. So I gave hugs and well wishes to all and got in my car. I didn’t drive far, only to the car park nearest the beach trail head. At 2:30 I headed up the coastal trail once again. I kept a sharp eye out for anything metal. As I said earlier, I was pretty sure I had been playing with my keys on the stretch before the waterfall, so when I reached the fork in the trail I made no hesitation in taking the waterfall section. I was quite glad we hadn’t tried to hike it yesterday when everyone was tired. There were about 6 stream crossings (one way) that required balancing on rocks not to get your feet wet. There were only 2 areas with wind fall across the trail – one of which required climbing through an entire tree! The waterfall was quite nice, but I didn’t but my head under it. It took some pictures, ate some food, and then headed back. I managed to slip on one crossing, ending with both feet in the water. Somehow, even though the water was above my boots, I managed to keep my feet dry. It must be my cat-like reflexes ;) ha ha ha – ya right, only if my reflexes are as good as Gizmo’s!!!

When I got back onto the beach from the trail the sun was setting and the wind was up. I pulled out my jacket and put it on. It occurred to me that, while in town, I had kept my wallet in this jacket pocket. I wondered if I had taken my wallet out and left in the car before my hike. Hmm? No point worrying until I could find out for sure. I received a text from Dave just as I was approaching the carpark. He wanted to know if I had gotten into my car. I was still texting him when I got to my car. I finished my text, pressed send, and then looked up to unlock my car. There, on the driver’s window, was a white sheet of paper with lots of writing – taped up using yellow pieces of tape, that if put together would spell the world POLICE!!!! What??! The note told me that I had lost my wallet in town at the shops. It then gave me step by step instructions on how to collect my wallet – turn around and go to brown house behind car. I really have no idea how it all worked out. I keep my car registration ticket in my wallet, so I guess they managed to find my car and match the registration to my wallet. A retired police officer lives in the brown house across from the car park, that’s who had my wallet. Whoever found my wallet was kind enough to leave all my money in it! How ridiculously lucky am I?

Before leaving for NZ, my parents threw me an awesome going away party. One of the gifts I was given was a beautiful “guardian angel” pin. I pinned it on my laptop bag that day; there it stayed it until a few weeks ago. It was the day before I lost my BSU jacket that I realized I still had the pin, but the guardian angel that had been attached to it was gone. I was bummed, but just starting to get used to losing things (I had just lost my headlamp case, along with the red filter that is needed when looking for nocturnal animals – such as kiwi). So, I guess it’s really the thought that counts. I may not have a cool material angel to keep me safe, but I definitely have some good karma checking in with me!! Thank goodness New Zealanders are so nice!

After such a stressful day it was really nice to relax in the hot pool. I went straight to the ultra hot tub, chatted with Wayne and Sue – recounting my luck and airheadedness – and then cooled down in the big pool. I warmed up again in the hot pool, took a shower, and then changed into my fleece. When I went back into the pool area to pick up the swimsuit I had forgotten, Wayne wanted to know what I had lost now. My phrase to him for the rest of the night – during dinner, while watching a DVD – was “forgetting something is not the same as losing something”.

At this point, I’d probably lose my head if it weren’t attached!

A Day of Business (Thurs. 7 August)
As I type up this section I am sitting in the Waihi library. They have free internet access and wifi!! Waihi is about 20 km from my campsite, less than ½ an hour away (where I was a few days agolooking at a hole in the ground). It was the nearest post office at which I could renew my car registration for another 6 months. I was quite nervous about it, as I am still waiting for my 3rd bad thing to happen. Guess it’s really the 3rd thing to go missing though. So far, so good –car registered and spare key made. Really, I can’t even say I’ve had 2 BAD things happen – since my wallet was returned! I am very fortunate in the fact that I didn’t have any other keys to lose – no house or office keys. I just lost my Juneau carabiner and my “mr yuck” bottle opener, but that’s fine with me. After posting this blog (minus pictures because the wifi doesn’t seem to be working for me today L - I think it has to do with my anti-virus software not working properly) I will wonder around town, maybe doing some grocery shopping, maybe pick up a key chain, but definitely checking into how to become an AA member!

Before coming to town, I did a few laps in the pool and soaked in the hot tub. I attempted to organize my car, but then got antsy and left ½ of it undone. Tonight is my last night at the camp site. I am going to go to a yoga class with Sue! It should be fun. Tomorrow I will explore this area some more before meeting up with Dave. We’ll stay in the Tauranga area, hike Mt. Manganui, and see what other cool stuff we can find before he heads back to Thames and work. I expect I’ll go check out Rotarua and then the eastern Bay of Plenty area – but that’s planning WAY to far ahead!!!

02 August 2008

Massive Update - stars, hikes, floods, and dolphins

Hey there, welcome back! This is the first time I’ve gotten on the internet in over a week. I’ve had some excellent adventures – camping up a mountain, weathering some storms and meeting extremely nice people everywhere I go. During this last week I experienced what will remain the highlight of my NZ experience – for a while at least, since swimming with dolphins is pretty hard to beat! I’m trying to upload the short video of the dolphins jumping in the water right now. I hope that everyone is able to view the clip from their computers.

So, now that I’ve got your curiosity up – I’ll start off with the boring details of where I left of in the last episode, and lead up to the present


AUCKLAND REVISITED (22 –24 July)
Going back a bit – I really enjoyed being in Auckland again. I was fairly surprised at how much I remembered the area and how easily I was able to drive the roads (considering how nervous I was to drive them after I first got the car). It was pretty cool sitting in Alfred Park (across from Auckland University) amid bare branched trees, considering that the last time I had been in the park the leaves were changing color and carpeting the paths.

I really enjoyed meeting up with familiar people too. I met up with Bobbie Tuesday evening (22 July) at a pub during a pub quiz. I met her boyfriend and several really nice people from her hostel. Unfortunately her boyfriend will be leaving for Australia for a bit, but they have plans to travel the South Island together later in the year and then go to South America! How awesome is that? It was really nice to see Bobbie again, even if we didn’t get to talk that much because there was a quiz going on. At least I got my mail and some hugs.

I spent Wednesday (23th) at the Yaping House hostel – so I could have free WIFI and give Elizabeth and Harry a break. I left them with a bottle of cheap NZ wine as a thank you. Wed was another on again off again rain (if your paying attention, you should see a typical weather pattern in my blog by now :) So it was a perfect day to chop up veggies and make a massive pot of soup. I did some application work, balanced my checking accounts, and uploaded the pictures of my previous blog. After hours of geeking on the computer and finishing a delicious lunch of pumpkin and quinoa soup (I am so proud of myself for my tasty concoction) I put on my rain jacket and headed down the hill. I had a vague destination of visiting One Tree Hill (supposedly made famous by U2, but I’m not sure how or why). The domain (park) was a good distance off (actually closer to Liz and Harry than the Yaping House!), but the rain had stopped for a bit and it wasn’t quite sunset. By the time I made it to the park, sunset was gone and shadows were setting in, so I stopped in and checked out the StarDome Observatory first – found out what programs were going on – and then headed up the hill. When I reached the top, I found a car of people parked at the base of the monument and could see/hear a couple of people next to the monument giggling, coughing, and talking. I played with my camera a bit, trying to get the stars behind the monument and messing with various settings, but the lights were to bright for the stars to show – and I didn’t have a tripod. I couldn’t get a decent picture of the city lights either - the winds were so strong that I was left with a picture of light streaks; even when I set the camera on the rail! An hour later, I was back at the StarDome. I had decided to go to “The Sky Tonight” and find out if I had my constellations correct and if I could learn some new ones. I killed an hour before the show; checking out the exhibits and gift shop. The show was great – yep, I had the southern cross down and I knew I didn’t have Scorpio wrong; but I didn’t know the teapot was so close to Maui’s fish hook (the tail of Scorpio) and I had no idea that Leo was on the western horizon when the sun set (though he’s on his head, since he was named in the northern hemisphere). I didn’t learn any new constellations, but found out that Mars and Saturn are hanging out with Leo, Saturn is a massively bright star next to the teapot’s handle (the teapot is the main body of Sagittarius), and that Alpha Centauri (one of the pointer stars for the southern cross) is actually a binary star. We were fortunate that the by the time the presentation was over the clouds had cleared and we were able to look through the telescope. We checked out the stripes of Jupiter, the two stars of Alpha Centauri, and the various colors of the Jewel box (a group of stars in the southern cross – I think). I kept warm by hopping around a bit while waiting for my turn at the eyepiece :) While retracing my exact steps back to the hostel (so as not to get lost), I was fortunate that the rain didn’t return.

The next morning (Thurs. 24th), I packed up my car, hit the Kathmandu winter sale one last time (merino boxer shorts are the only way to go!), and then caught the southern motorway out of town. At the last minute, I decided to take the Pacific Highway scenic route exit. It was a lovely sunny day and I figured there was no point skipping the small towns by driving the fast, busy motorway. I was quite glad I took the detour: curvaceous roads through green pastures, the sun shining off the blue ocean, the breeze through my window. Along the way, I came across Wharau regional park (wh = f sound). At the park office I found maps showing lots of hiking trails and camping sites, but no information person. Since I had a brand new tent, I figured it would be way cool to camp one night, hike up the next day to Adam’s Lookout, camp a night, and come back down the next day in time to catch the NZ vs. AUS rugby match. However, all the gates were closed to vehicles and I couldn’t figure out where else the parking lot would be. So I drove back towards the town I had just passed through to see if any of the locals knew what was up with camping in the area. I pulled over to the side of the road when I saw a white haired lady walking on the beach. I asked her if she was from around here and then asked her about camping (I had one of the maps/brochures with me). She pointed out the number to call about enquiries and then we chatted for a bit. I went back to the car, found I had no cell reception, and started driving. I pulled into a backpacker enquiry house – (to use their phone, ask about camping), but no one was home. When I got to the end of the driveway, the white haired lady was walking up the road waving to me and jogging a little. I rolled down my window. She wanted to remind me that I was in NZ. They drive on the left side of the road here!!!

I can’t tell you how embarrassed I was when she told me she had watched me pull away from the beach and start driving down the right side of the road. She was so worried about me! I had parked illegally – facing into traffic in order to be in the parking area – and when I pulled out I just didn’t think about moving over a lane. I felt so dumb. It was the first time in over a month I had done that. I promised I would go back to telling myself to “stay left” every time I was behind the wheel (something I had quit lately). She then asked me if I was looking for a room stay at the backpackers. When I told her I had no reception to call the rangers she offered her phone! How nice is that?

She hopped in my car, we drove down 4 houses, and she let me into her beautiful beach front home. It turns out that Wharau camp grounds are closed to all but “self-contained” vehicles in the winter – the campgrounds are too wet. I could have done the hike up to Adams Lookout and camped there, but we would have had to figure out a way for me to pay the $5 fee (I was not using my US credit card for a measly $5). Disappointed, I decided to just keep heading up the road. I drove down the seabird coast – scaring up flocks of herons, seagulls, and hawks – and passed up the chance to stay at Miranda hot springs (it was relatively cheap, but I just couldn’t sit in a stinky pool for half a day when there were sunny mountains to explore). I headed towards Thames and the camp icon I saw on my map.

THAMES (24 July to present day (2 August)): (pronounced kind of like Tems, but more like Täms maybe, it’s the first major town on the west cost of the Coromandel peninsula - a jet of land just east of Auckland, known for its beaches and hippy/artsy populace).

First camping trip in NZ!! 24 – 26 July
I arrived at the Kauaeranga forest center around 1pm. I chatted with the information girl and found they had tons of camping! I had been SO disappointed about missing my pack hike in Wharau, but was super excited to find that I could pack up to and stay at “the pinnacles” (I had heard they were lovely). So, I drove to the end of the road, stopping to do 6 of the 7 short walks along the way. I set up camp at the trail head while it was still light. My tent was easy to set up and roomy enough for me and all my gear (though definitely not big enough for another person – a 2 person tent rarely has room for 2). While I warmed up my pre-made soup with my brand new stove (which worked perfectly – started up on the first click of the ignition switch) I was disappointed to see that half the stars were obscured by dark clouds. However, after cleaning up my dinner I found that the sky was perfectly clear - milky way and all!!! So, I took out my brand new, ultra light Kathmandu tripod and set up my camera. I got a few good shots of the southern cross, a couple of Jupiter and the teapot, and one fabulous one of Scorpio (the red of Antares is actually visible). I also took several blinding shots of a possum up a tree. There were 2 of them in the same area, one of them was yelling at me with a very creepy call that I can’t even really remember, let alone describe – but it was creepy.

I slept pretty well that night (Thurs 24 July). I was bit cold sometimes, but that’s understandable - since I woke up to a tent covered in ice. I ate my porridge (oats, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, dried papaya, and sultanas (Turkish raisins) soaked overnight) and then used my brand new travel plunger coffee cup to make a cup of coffee using my fair trade Ethiopian blend (yep, I drink coffee now – still need a bit of sugar, and milk is preferable too). I managed to pack slowly enough to give the sun a chance to melt most of the ice off my tent fly and dry out my sleeping bag a bit. At a quarter after 10, I had my pack on my back and was starting up the trail. The sign said it would take 3 hours to get to the pinnacles hut. I figured I’d be lucky to haul my out of shape bum up the steep steps in under 5 hours. I hadn’t gone light on my pack – figured I might as well use this half day walk as a bit of a test/train for future walks. In fact, Dominic (my teddy) was even along for the ride!

I took the 5 minute detour to Billy Goat view point – massive waterfall far up in the mountains – and ended up meeting up with a day trekking Brit. We chatted for the first third of the trail, after which time the never ending rock stairs had slowed me enough that his smoker lungs and day pack hauling self outpaced me. I took my time up the trail – enjoying the views, taking a couple water breaks, and reading about the 100 year old history of the pack trail I was on. The steps that were killing my quads were cut into the stone to give pack horses (heading to the kauri logging camps) good footing up the steep slope. It reminded me a lot of my pack trip in Alaska – I hiked the Chilkoot trail but there is a section of the White Pass trail where many horses fell to their deaths despite the steps cut into the rock.

A little under 3 hours after starting up the trail, I was quite surprised to find myself arriving at the pinnacles hut - guess they time these hikes for the SUPER slow hiker! I was astounded at how big and how cushy the hut was - showers, BBQ, massive kitchen. I had heard that the Kiwis liked to camp in style, but this was almost ridiculous. I went down to the ranger hut and checked in with the hut warden, Charles. He was floored at how big my pack was and insisted we weigh it. He was adamant that my 20 kilos (~40 pounds) was WAY too heavy. I insisted that I was too poor to invest in lightweight, non bulky camping gear (my pack weighs almost 5 pounds when empty – but I have never had raw spots on my hips or shoulders from lack of padding). After having a good laugh at my expense, Charles offered me some tea and we chatted a bit. Then I went down and set up my tent and unpacked my gear. At around 2:30 I headed up the trail to the top of the pinnacles. I had a hip belt full of food and cooking gear, a brand new backpack (ya, I bought the pack that folds into its own pocket :) full of water and extra clothes, and my camera. The trail is basically one long set of stairs to the top, but at least they were built to human leg height. It was a bit tiring, but I still made it up in ½ and hour. The end of the trail is quite fun – 2 super steep ladders (with railings) and a bit of rock climbing aided by hand/foot holds bolted into the rocks. At the top, a wooden platform looks out over the volcanic remains of jagged mountains, green forest, and ocean islands. The sky was a deep blue, with thin white clouds starting to come out.

I spent about 2 hours at the top of the pinnacles. My idea had been to get some great sunset shots and then try to catch Leo before he set. However, at 4:30 the sun went behind a cloud just over the mountain and never came out again. So, I took a million pictures of the same views as the light changed, climbed the rocks, did some yoga, and just relaxed. It’s amazing how hard a time I have relaxing! When I first got the top, I took my pictures, sat on a rock, got up, went back down the trail a bit (to see how easy it would be in the dark) and then tried to figure out what to do until sunset. I have the habit of just walking a trail, getting somewhere, and then going back down the trail. But once I set myself down and settled in a bit, I really enjoyed just watching the clouds change.

I ate my dinner and made a cup of coffee, but with the gradual influx of clouds I decided I wasn’t going to get any good star shots and headed down the trail while there was still some light. Back at the hut, I found 2 people in the kitchen and they told me Charles was looking for me. It turns out a severe weather front was moving in and it was recommended that I move into the hut, since the high winds and heavy rains weren’t good for tenting. It didn’t matter one way or the other to Charles, but if I wanted to keep my gear dry and sleep in the hut he wouldn’t charge me the extra $7.50. I felt like a pansy taking my tent down in the dark, dry night, but when I heard the rains pounding the roof at 5:30 the next morning I was quite happy with my decision.
Instead of staying at the massive hut with the other 2 trampers, I ended up staying in the ranger hut with Charles. It was so much fun, he is such a great guy – a retiree living the good life: one week in the mountains and one week on the beach. He was the epitome of hospitality: I took a warm shower (he even had spare towels!), drank a mix of red wine/ginger wine/hot water (super yummy), and watched a Michael Palin travel DVD next to the fire. It was really great. The night before (at the trail head) I realized I had never camped by myself before. Sure, I had slept in my own tent lots of times (the last 2 field seasons), but I had never been in the woods by myself before – completely and utterly alone! It had been just me, the possums, and the stars. It was a little lonely really. It turns out I’m kind of a social person! I think Charles enjoyed having someone to talk with too.

Drowned Rat at the Gateway (26 July) (there are no pictures for this section due to the urgency with which I had to leave the park and then get in a hot shower).

So on Saturday morning (26 July) I got out of my warm, dry sleeping bag and enjoyed staying dry as I packed up my gear. The severe storm was coming in and the high winds had reached our area, but the rains wasn’t too bad yet. Charles offered to let me stay another night – even mentioning it would be steak for dinner and the conclusion of Michael Palin’s adventures that evening – but I wanted to catch the rugby game and I didn’t want to eat all his food (I had been a bad backpacker, not packing an extra day’s supply of food – though I did have emergency rations). So, at 9am I got a rather late start down the trail. It was wet and windy and I knew I had to beat the majority of the storm so that the fords didn’t flood and trap me in the park. I felt (and probably looked) like a drowned rat by the time I reached the end of the trail, 1.5 hours later. I was greeted by a several power company people and a couple of rangers – one of which told me it was about time I got out and that if I was 20 minutes later I wouldn’t be getting out!! He told me to drive out fast before they did. I shoved my soaking gear into the car and didn’t worry about oncoming traffic when I took the gravel curves at higher speeds than I would have ever reached the day before. The first ford I crossed sent water spraying out both sides of my car, but wasn’t terribly deep. When I saw the 2nd ford, I came close to slowing down so I could register how deep it was. But I decided that slowing down too much would just give the water more time to reach the engine and possiblly stall in the middle. So I just went for it. The shuddering feeling of a car needing to be down shifted worried me at first – as it happened right in the middle of the ford – until I realized that it was just the force of the water quickly slowing me. I was extremely happy to come out the other side with no problems. The rest of the drive down from the mountain was pretty good - trees hadn’t fallen across the road yet. I gave Jim (my car – a 1991 Mitsubishi Chariot by the way) a pep talk when he started to jolt along (kind of stuttering when I would put the gas on) and I was very happy when, after stopping at an intersection in town, the car didn’t die.

After arriving in Thames, I stopped at the information center to figure out the most affordable place to stay. The Gateway hostel was right next door and had a room. I arrived at the hostel soaking wet and freezing cold. I took a single room so that I could spread my gear out (turns out my pack is no longer water proof – at least not in heavy rains :( I took a LONG, hot shower, put on dry clothes, and then realized I had left all my dry shoes (and several other handy items) in the car. Since I had no desire to get soaking wet right away, I hung around the kitchen/lounge area and talked with Andy. He asked about a couple games and I told him that I vaguely knew the idea of chess, but pretty much stank at it. He made us some tea, set up the board, and patiently explained some various strategy ideas. He was way cool on our first game – pointing out how various moves could play out, letting me move a piece back when I exposed some king, etc. Simon, the hostel owner, came in during the second game. Andy said my game had improved 100% and he wasn’t really sure who was going to win. In fact, he didn’t even see his winning move until I pointed it out to him!

Andy has stayed at the hostel several times and for long stretches, so he knows Simon and Denny (a nurse that lives at the hostel during the winter) pretty well. All 3 are super nice and seem to get along like family. Cookies and chocolate were freely shared with me over tea and conversation. I had finally taken the courage to run out to my car in my bare feet and grab some more gear, so I shared some of my constellation pictures with everybody. Denny ran out to his van and brought in his star chart and a super cool, super inspiring picture he had taken of the southern cross. He had been giving me pointer on how to get the best color from my sunset photos, so every time I asked him about his star photo he would just smile and ask how I thought he did it. The rest of the evening was spent sharing music and having a good time. I roasted up some veggies to go with rice and lentils, sharing them in exchange for the treats they had shared with me. The Japanese guest had never heard of lentils, so when they were done cooking I let him give them a try. The Japanese WWOOFer in Kerikeri hated lentils, but this guy really liked them. In fact, they reminded him of a bean dish his grandmother used to cook. I was really happy when I saw the smile he had thinking about his grandma.

I got so engrossed in sharing cool music with Denny, that I totally forgot about the rugby game. I caught a glimpse of the clock – 5 minutes to 10 – and suddenly remembered kick off was at 10! Denny had to work early, so Andy and I headed down to one of the pubs and caught most of the game (Australia won about 36 to 19 – NZ didn’t play to well at the end) and then stayed until bar close listening to karaoke. We each took turns buying rounds and then somehow ended up talking with a few people next to us . Pretty soon we were the last people in the bar and we were all still talking! So we managed to get ourselves invited up to their house for more beers! It was awesome. I haven’t had a night out like that since leaving Juneau – 3 years ago! We all ended up talking and hanging out until 5 in the morning! The walk home that morning was beautiful – no rain, layers of clouds illuminated by the arriving sun. I only caught a few hours of sleep after arriving home, as I wanted to be up and packed by the 10am checkout. While I did want to stay another night (to share music, check out the area, and just chill out), I didn’t want to get stuck paying the higher rate of a single room (versus dorm room).

A drive to a gorge, a walk through a tunnel (27 July)
After moving my gear into the dorm and having a lazy morning tea, Andy offered to drive me to the Karangahake Gorge. The weather wasn’t great, but it wasn’t raining much either. It would have been perfect for walking down the pinnacles trail :) While Andy had seen the area, he hadn’t checked out the tunnel walkway and figured it would be a good place to spend a day that may, or may not, choose to rain. It was so nice to sit back and watch the scenery roll by, particularly since I still had the headache I had come home with the night before. While we had decided to the tunnel loop right off, we ended up detouring up into the old mine shafts. Funny enough, it was wetter inside the mines than it was outside – I had to watch out for cold water dripping down the back of the neck. Eventually, we made our way back to the original track and followed the river for a while. It was extremely brown from the recent rain, and very full. We ran into a couple of guys running along the stream. They were safety lookouts for the kayakers coming down. Watching the paddlers bob and splash through the decent sized rapids was pretty fun. At the end of the trail we came to the tunnel. I’m not sure how long the tunnel actually is, but holy cow – it felt like we were walking to the end forever! We decided that purgatory must be much like walking this tunnel – surrounded by thick darkness with the light at the end never seeming to get closer. It was a really fun day. In appreciation for all his driving, I bought Andy and I a takeaway dinner of fish and chips. There is nothing like a bunch of grease after a night of drinking! The rest of the evening was pretty mellow - chatting with Simon and Denny, watching TV, and finally getting some well deserved sleep!


Heading north, acquiring a travel partner (28 July)
On Monday morning (28 July) I woke up early, had breakfast, and typed up the majority of the above blog (I’ve just edited it on Tuesday). I had intended to post the blog and check e-mail before heading north up the peninsula. I figured I’d take a week to thoroughly explore walking trails and do some camping. However, most of my gear was still wet, the sun was shining warmly, and my car was a disaster. Simon had come in and mentioned that the sun was only going to last half, maybe most, of the day and then it would be back to pissing rain for the rest of the week. I decided not to waste time with internet nonsense. I moved my wet gear into my hot box of a car and started packing. Andy was just getting up, so we talked about my plans and exchanged phone numbers in case we ended up in the same area some time. Then he mentioned that he had half a mind to follow me up, since he had yet to check it out. I told him he was more than welcome, but it was pointless to take two cars. He packed up his gear while I arranged my car into some semblance of decent presentation. I would have loved to have taken his car – since it has CD player that works, is super clean, and isn’t mine:) However, I wanted to have all my gear with me and Andy figured I could always throw him on a bus when I got sick of him. So, with a navigator in my passenger seat and a funky smell coming off my drying clothes in the back, I set off to explore the Coromandel peninsula.

Nothing is very far apart around here, so it didn’t take us long to reach Coromandel town. We marked the location of the Anchor Lodge – a BBH motel/hostel that has a heated pool and spa! Then we drove to the end of the road, finding a lovely walk through kauri trees and along the coast. After the fresh air, we decided to keep heading north and see if the weather held out. We intended to make it all the way to Fletcher’s Bay (the very end of the northern road – with a coastal walkway as our ultimate goal), but we came across a non-bridged stream flowing through the road and I wasn’t going to risk ruining Jim. So, we headed back to one of the campsites we scouted earlier – Fantail Bay. We did a short, though very steep, walk up the mountain before deciding to set up my tent. I know I mentioned in this blog that there was no way my tent had room for 2, but it turns out it does. I wasn’t going to make Andy sleep in my uncomfortable car (to be honest, I didn’t want to move my stuff out of the way either) and since we were tenting right next to the car, there was no reason to have gear in the tent with us. (Now – I’d like to politely ask all of you, particularly one my aunts, to think a little bit higher of me and get those soap opera ideas out of your head. Andy and I may have been in close quarters, but we were still in separate sleeping bags and we slept head next to feet. What kind of girl do you think I am?)

Swimming with dolphins !!!! (29 July)
WARNING: The following video may contain words not appropriate for sensitive ears. You may want to turn your volume down before playing



The night was quite dry, but the rain did show up in the wee hours of the morning. My tent, as I expected, stayed warm and dry. It was a nice sound. We were fortunate that the rain did start pounding down first thing in the morning. We had time in between small showers to pack up the tent and I even got the stove going for coffee. We decided to try getting to the coastal walkway from the end of the other road on the peninsula. As I was driving down the road and checking out the blue ocean against the black rock beach, I saw a pod of dolphins. I quickly pulled over at the nearest shoulder, grabbed the camera, and started filming. I hope to be e-mailing a small file to everyone soon – though it may have to be muted in order to not hear some of my expletives. I freaked out a little when I saw that the dolphin was jumping in the frame I was filming. It was so awesome – they were jumping, slapping their tails, and there were tons of them! Andy told me how he and Denny spotted some off a sandy beach one day and Denny just jumped in. Well, I hadn’t thought about it until then – but how cool would that be? How could I not do it?

So, Andy hung out on the beach while I changed at the car. I got my snorkel and wore my rubber boots down to the shore. Andy took some video and photos while I swam into the chilly water. I gotta admit – I was a bit nervous. Sure, it was really cold – but I wasn’t sure how the dolphins were going to act or if they were going to stick around. The visibility wasn’t really that great, so I was caught by surprise when I saw the first of several swim right in front of me!!!! I can’t believe how close they were! Several of them did circles around me, like they were checking me out and didn’t know what to think. Near the end, 6 of them passed under me at once! One time, 2 swam past belly to belly with each other. At one point, I didn’t think there were any nearby so I was geeking out on a tiny little ctenophore (jellyfish like organism), when I heard a dolphin blow right behind me. I think I actually jumped out of the water! There’s no video of that, but there is a cool footage of my back and bum out of the water and a dolphin fin right next to me. I told Andy he didn’t have to pay for gas after taking doing camera work for me :) However, the footage of the jumping is WAY cooler! It's to bad I completely forgot, in my mad rush to get in the water, that I also have an underwater camera. The dolphins may have blurred and I doubt the ctenophore would have been visible, but it would have been worth trying.
Man – what a day!! It’s pretty hard to beat something so epic! Even if we had made it all the way to Stony Bay and the coastal walkway (and the sun had come out) the dolphins would have been the definite highlight. However, we didn’t make it to the bay. After hours of driving mountain roads we made it close. The rain was coming down pretty hard by the time we got to the last section. However, neither Andy nor I really wanted to test Jim on the muddy, steep section of road that had a sign boasting its lack of maintenance. So, we turned back around. Part way up, I had Andy take over driving so I could enjoy the views. We took a slightly different route back to Coromandel. After stopping for some beer and food, we headed to the Anchor Lodge

Trapped by floods (30-31 July)
It was raining quite hard when we reached the Anchor Lodge and I didn’t have a single pair of dry shoes! My hiking boots were still wet inside and out from my pinnacles expedition, my “wellies” (British for rubber boots) were wet from swim with the dolphins, and my trail runners (basic tennis shoes) were wet not only from the steep hike the night before, but also from the wet morning grass of the morning. If I was wise, it would have occurred to me to put all of these shoes in front of the lodge fire – but I didn’t. Instead I put on socks and wore my slippas (Hawaiian term for flip flops – called jandals here in NZ). Eventually we got tired of watching TV and being cold, so I put on my super cold, wet swimsuit and Andy put on his swim trunks and we sat in the hot tub for a bit. I would never have thought that I’d ever warm up, let alone get to hot! But eventually I got hot enough to enjoy the cool breeze and chilly rain on the walk back to the lodge. I took a hot shower, put on a bunch of fleece and settled in for a toasty night of movies.

While I have very much enjoyed my solo travelling, I must admit – it’s kind of cool having someone to share things with. For one, I’d never have a picture of myself snorkeling next to a dolphin! For two, while I spent the evening watching TV and writing this blog, I listened to pots rattle and smelled onions browning in butter and then I was served dinner and juice! How sweet is that? I suppose it’s only fair really – I did the cooking at camp.

What I don’t like about travelling with a person is having to consult them for what they want to do. I got up pretty early Wed morning (30th July) and enjoyed having the hostel to myself while doing some much needed yoga. Afterwards, I checked out the news – not good. The entire Northland was cut off from the rest of the country (northland is where I was all of last month – all my WWOOFing plus my week at the Walkers in Whangarei). I also heard that several roads on the peninsula were closed, but it is such a small area that it doesn’t get covered in the news. So, when the 10am checkout time started rolling around, I debated whether or not to wake my travel partner or just pay for another night here. Luckily, he got up in time for me to talk our options out with, but it was finding out that pretty much every road out of town was closed due to flooding that really made our decision. So, we spent the extremely wet day hanging out with our Spanish roommate – Antonio - watching movies and eating PBJs (which I introduced to Andy the day before – apparently the Brits have peanut butter and they like their jam, but they don’t put them together. I think I may have gotten Andy hooked, as that was lunch today too :)
Surprisingly, the hot tub was never used during the day! I had gone out in my bare feet and rolled up fleece pants during the one hour in the morning that the sun was out. I waded through the massive pond that was the road and over to the mud field that was the park, enjoying the warmth and blue sky that was surrounded by extremely black clouds. Soon, the clouds moved in and the rain returned. Around the time that I started thinking about getting into a chilly swim costume and jumping in the tub, the rain stopped. I can’t say the sun REALLY came out, but it was much more visible through the clouds. After a day of sitting on the couch, I couldn’t say no to a walk in town. We went to the top of a hill, got a good view (though I didn’t take my camera), and then walked into town. Andy bought some supplies to make a German pasta dish called spetzl (neither of us have a clue how to spell that!) – flour, salt, eggs, and water boiled up and then fried with onions and cheese – it turned out to be a heavy dish, but quite good (can’t go wrong with cheese!). It went well with the bottle of the wine I pretty much drank by myself.
Surprisingly, I didn’t feel all the bad the next morning (31st)– though I didn’t bother doing yoga ;) After breakfast I checked out of the hostel and talked with the owner about taking “The 309” across to Whitianga – he didn’t mention any road closures. So, we filled up on gas, passed a “road closed sign” on the side of the road, and decided to see how far we could go before the road was closed. We had wanted to hike up Castle Rock, but knew it would be far to muddy after all the rains. We got a decent way down the road and past cleared landslides before coming across a massive pile of dirt covering the entire road. We wisely decided not to follow the two tracks going through the dirt and along the side of the cliff, we turned around. On the way back we found the parking the lot a nice group of kauri trees – including a Siamese one! It was nice place to stretch the legs and enjoy the sunny day. After reaching the main road we turned back towards Coromandel to try the better maintained highway. We found a queue of cars and some heavy machinery lined up. The road wasn’t going to be open for quite a while. We held out hopes of it opening in the afternoon, so instead of going back through Thames and around to Whitianga (a decent loop, even if it wouldn’t take much time – 2 hours instead of the ½ hour if the other road was open) we decided to head back up the peninsula and try to find some walks we may have missed the first time. It was such a nice day that we ended up having lunch on a lovely rocky beach – surf spraying over black rocks, but wind whipping our lunch bags around. We ended up driving all the way back to Colville (having picked up some local hitchhikers that gave us a chuckle) before I decided that I was done backtracking. I didn’t see the point wasting gas going places we’d already been and knew had no more walks.
We did manage to find a short coastal track on the way back down the beach. When we stopped I found that my parents had tried to call again – they had received my package of goodies. So after a refreshing walk through the bush I sat on the beach and talked with my parent. It was so nice to hear their voices and hear their stories. I had texted them about my dolphin adventure and they wanted to know all about it. Mom was very happy that I was traveling with someone (she worries about me), but did wish that I wasn’t climbing mountains by myself.
When we arrived back in Coromandel (again!), we found the roads were still not opened and not scheduled to be open until the next day. AAAAAGGGHHH trapped on the tip of NZ on a beautiful day with more rain to come in the night – discouraging any fun in camping again. We would have been in Whitianga (and the Cathedral Cove I wanted to see) by this time if we had just gone through Thames to begin with. Now we were deciding whether or not to stay at the Anchor Lodge again or head to Thames. Neither of us really wanted to stay in Thames – we hadn’t even been gone a week! I did want to be in Thames for the weekend, as I wanted to meet up with a new friend for some internet time. But it was only Thursday, and there wasn’t much to do to kill time otherwise. We finally decided to pass through Thames without even stopping for groceries and head to Miranda hot springs. Andy drove pretty much most of the way, while I looked out the window sulking about our luck and poor decisions. I really wanted to get to the other side of the peninsula. I didn’t let my mood get to me to long before I found something to laugh about and quit worrying about gas and money.

Long Soak in a Cold Rain (31 July - 2 August)
As always happens, one thing leads to another and one decision makes all the difference. Sitting in the natural mineral pool of Miranda’s I found myself thoroughly enjoying the rain for the first time since arriving in NZ. I was warm and relaxed, the rain made beautiful patterns in the water, and watching the drops rebound off the water really made me want to catch the perfect picture (of course I had no desire to really try it – I would like to keep this camera safe for at least the rest of the trip). Who knows where we would have ended up if we had gone to Whitianga, who knows what cathedral cove would have been like, who knows what the roads up to Whitianga would have been; but I like that we ended up where we did. I also really liked having super cheap laundry facilities! My car smelled 50% better after my wool socks went through the wash!

Friday morning (1 August) we had a quick soak in the pools before packing up and heading out. We had vague ideas of walking tracks to head for, but when we stopped in Paeroa for coffee and sandwiches we decided to stop in at the information center and see what they might suggest. It’s always funny talking to non-hikers when trying to find a place to walk. The lady was certain that every track in the two parks we were looking at were going to be muddy and slick. Well, obviously – we did just survive two “weather bombs” in a row. We finally decided to head towards Kaimai park, but with my driving (apparently I don’t listen to navigators to well :) we ended up at a local walking trail at the end of a neighbor. After 5 minutes of walking, I didn’t even stop to ask Andy if he would should continue over the stream through the trail. I just hopped rock to rock. When I looked back, Andy was wandering from side to side trying to figure out how to get across. After a minute or so I asked if he wanted me to come back, but then he just stepped into the ankle deep water and came across – water flooding his shoes. I felt quite bad, but at the end of the day I was so very glad we hadn’t turned back. We ended up spending 3 hours or so on the mountain following signs to the Tui Mines. The weather was just about perfect for hiking – not hot, but the sun coming out a few times; not real wet, but with a couple of good rains; not a continual steep grade, but patches of heart pumping, sweat inducing stretches. Near the bottom of the trail we had a snack overlooking the waterlogged town of Te Aroha, and at the top we had a decent view down the cloud filled valley. There were many jokes about “gorillas in the mist” and “backpackers in the mist” when we were treated to the Juneau-esc view of mountains shrouded in clouds. At one point, I’m pretty sure we were inside a cloud.
We came back out of the mountains a little after 3. Ate lunch in a historical park (Andy forgot to pack the sandwiches) and then headed back towards Thames.


When we reached the Gateway, Simon wasn’t around. Andy just took his gear in and wasn’t worried. I took my gear in, but then went out to look for Simon – I just felt better if he knew we were there. Of course, he’s so laid back that he hadn’t even changed Andy’s sheets yet! I think Andy was quite happy with that, as he was going to be a bit put off if he didn’t get his bed back :) Simon, Andy, and I sat around drinking tea and recounting our adventures until Dave picked me. Dave was the guy that had invited Andy and I back for beers after the last rugby game – also the one that had offered me a WIFI DSL connection. We went out for beer and pizza and my first live band in NZ. The pizza was great – chicken satay?! – and the band rocked. It was great fun. I got home at a decent hour (2ish?) and slept well.

I got up a bit early, 7:30, as I usually do after a night out. I was surprised, though, when Andy got up just after me. I was afraid he would sleep in late and I wouldn’t get a chance to talk to him before I checked out (though I would have just texted him for rugby this evening). I had gotten a couch offer and couldn’t see spending more money at a backpackers. Denny came home from work while Andy and I were talking about plans for the day. Denny was super stoked when he heard about my dolphin swimming. I busted out the laptop and showed videos and pictures of our trip. Denny once again gave me some tips for taking pictures. It was a pretty nice morning. I got to chat with Simon a bit too before meeting up with Dave and his high speed internet. When I pulled up at the house I was a bit nervous to meet his dad first thing (Dave lives with his parents – temporarily of course). So, by 10:30 am I had met the whole local family (mom, dad, and little sis – a brother and sister live out of town). Obviously they are lovely people. I’ve been here working on this blog and uploading pictures pretty much since. We took a good walk and played on the playground toys for a lunch break (I really missed Olivia when I was there, she would have gone crazy on this awesome playground). Hopefully the couch offer will pan out after rugby tonight, but if not – it’s nice to know that I can just crawl into a hostel bed and pay Simon in the morning!

Whew – I think that’s all. Once again, I haven’t gotten myself to read this entire thing, so I’m sure it’s full of misspellings and random details; but I do think I got most of the dates straight! It's been a good day to stay inside and do online things - it's been rainy and wet since our lunchtime excursion. Should be a good night for mum's corned beef too! yummy!