20 October 2009

Kangaroo Island

Aaahhhh…. There’s nothing like sitting down after a good days work of weeding and cleaning in the sun. Granted, the end of the work day did end with a bite from a nasty large ant (fire ant?.... sure felt like fire after the bite!), but luckily Dan (my Welsh co-WWOOFer) spotted why I had gotten bit. I was far away from the nest of mutantly large ants by the time I got the one off my ankle, but it was good to know not to venture back to retrieve my glove or shovel! While my ankle still burned crazy, Dan I went back and had a fascinated look at the mass of activity in the grass/leaf litter. Dan couldn’t resist poking the nest with a stick! (boys). He carried 3 ants over to another nest to see what would happen. Unfortunately, he thought he had only 2 ants on the stick! I thought he had seen (and talked about) the third one running up the stick…. So, my ankle and his knuckle now have red welts on them!!!! AAAAHHHHH ha ha haha…. Good times! :) (we did have a really good laugh over the whole thing – and remembering my screams (especially when seeing the ant IN his glove) still makes me chuckle).

Anyway…. I’m still trying to catch up with recounting my adventures with mum in South Australia (SA)…. Last blog had us heading to the Kangaroo Island on the ferry from Cape Jervis.

Tuesday, 29 Sept

We landed at the little town of Penneshaw round about 6-7pm. As we collected our luggage from the shuttle van, a guy holding a “Budget” car rental clipboard asked if Kathy had a car rented (I couldn’t help but chuckle to myself when he asked, because I kept asking her what company we were with – having seen the Budget guy and hoping we wouldn’t have to haul our gear to another company…. At the TOP of the steep street). Thankfully, the Budget car was at the bottom of the hill, and the nice gentleman (company owner?) drove us up to the office and sorted us out. As we were pulling away from the curb we were telling ourselves to be well alert for wildlife. This was Kangaroo Island – where driving after dark is highly discouraged due to the amount of nocturnal animals that are active along the roads. To name a few: kangaroo, wallaby, koala, bilby, possum….little blue penguins. We hadn’t even been on the road for 30 seconds as we approached an intersection and I told Kathy to watch out for the little penguin!!!!! I couldn’t believe that we weren’t even yet out of town and we were already spotting the cutest penguin. I would have been crazy ecstatic if I hadn’t seen the darling birds in NZ with mom already; but it was still an excellent thrill.

Unfortunately, that was really the best wildlife viewing (from the car) that we would get. Despite spending 4 nights on the island and driving ¾ of the roads, we NEVER spotted an echidna!!!!! I’m still DYING to see an echidna (supposedly everywhere on this island…. Echidnas are like little porcupines crossed with an anteater…… I think). The good side was that we were also never surprised with a kangaroo bounding out in front of us either! Kathy reckons that is because there had been so much rain lately (I think it rained nearly every night we were there – thankfully after we were tucked in bed!) that the animals didn’t have any reason to come near the road – there was plenty of food in the paddocks far from roads.

After our short drive from Penneshaw to American River, we found our accommodation (Casuarina) and sorted ourselves out. Mum set to work on dinner, while I set to work battling an obvious problem…. Invasion of the millipedes. There was just enough of a gap between the door and the floor for these persistent “worms” to flood in from outside. They were covering the wall and porch on the outside of the unit, so I figured if I didn’t stop them somehow they would be covering our floor in the morning! (eww). Ha ha, it was for this reason, that I chose the small twin in its own room for my duration of the stay -further from the door and “worms”! LOL (laugh out load).

Now, I realize that I am very interested in nature and have a degree in biology, BUT worms

– of any sort – give me the willies! I don’t like them. Even sedate, harmless earthworms are gross to me. So, it shouldn’t be a surprise that Kathy was the first to find that the “worms” weren’t slimy, but hard! Also, as soon as you touched them, they rolled into spirals! After several days (flipping one over on a trail?), I realized that they also had legs….lots and lots of legs (if something has more than 4 legs I’m pretty much scared of it!). We decided that these “hard worms” were actually millipedes. This conclusion was affirmed by a local, who also told us that NONE of the birds on the island eat them! No wonder there were so many!!!! In the end, I used one of our spare towels to fill the gap between the door and the floor. We came across a random “worm” nearly everyday, but thanks to their hard shell, and reaction of curling up when touched, they were easy enough to sweep up and toss out. (pictures actually taken in Adelaide a few days ago).

SO……. After a peaceful night’s sleep, we started our exploration of the island!!!

Wednesday, 30 Sept
We started with a local honey producer – paying $2 a piece to have a look at the information, displays, and LIVE colony between glass! (note the extremely full, yellow pollen sacks on the legs of the middle bee!)

We got to taste 3 different kinds of honey (produced by different plants)… they were SO sweet and yummy. We also HAD to try the honey ice cream! It was Delicious – so very creamy and sweet, though not overly sweet (unlike the pure honey on a spoon).


Kathy got a big laugh at my excitement for the silly photo op they had set up…. She reckoned she was travelling with a big kid! LOL I couldn’t disagree!

Next up, we headed to Murray Lagoon hoping to spot some birds in the wetland on the creek walk. We pulled into the ranger parking lot, but found no trails and no ranger in the hut…. We did, however, find a goanna!!!!! I heard the rustle in the grass before I saw this large lizard…. Wow was I stoked. I took several pictures before we decided we’d harassed it enough and headed in the hut.

When we returned from looking at brochures in the unmanned information center, the goanna was in the road. Well, of course I had to get more pictures! (you can see his toes better in this one!)

We drove a short bit down the road and found the trailhead for our creek walk. While I was slightly disappointed by the absence of large quantities of water birds (a few common waders that flew away when we were to close), we were both highly entertained by the small little bush birds that frustrated Kathy by eluding her camera lens! I think they were fairy wrens or the like, as Kathy kept telling me they were a beautiful blue…. I had far less luck than she at actually spotting them – except for a small blue flash in the distance! I think this is similar to what she was trying to capture….. (taken by Dave on our trip around southern WA (Western Australia))

It was on this walk that my non-observation of the world became obvious. It really is funny that I can spot

a tiny fungus on the side of a trail…

or a hawk miles off in the sky…









..... yet when it comes to wondering around Australia (a land full of many poisonous creatures) I walk RIGHT PAST a snake off the path!!!! Kathy said something along the lines of “there was a snake, and you walked right past it!” I said “WHAT! Where?” She took me back a few paces and pointed out a rather large black snake. It was motionless and I wondered whether it was alive. Kathy said we weren’t going to poke it and find out! LOL. Considering I have no idea how to identify the snakes around here (particularly deadly versus non-lethal, but still painful, species) I agreed with her! We left the snake and went after the little birds in the bush instead. On our return down the path we both kept a sharp lookout for a snake in the vicinity. We didn’t spot it again – so it must have been alive and slithered off!

It was several days later – while visiting seal beach on a guided tour – that we were told there were only 2 species of snakes on the island (versus the 500 million on the rest of the country). I don’t remember what both of them were. I just remember that the Tiger snake was the bigger one…..the black one (with vague stripes)…..the VERY poisonous one!!!!!


Our next stop on the southern coast road was Sea Lion Beach (I think that’s it’s name….I don’t have the guide book anymore, so that’s what I’m going to call it ;-). This beach is fairly famous for its guided tours allowing tourists to get fairly close to the sea lions. The sea lions are so used to people that they are not even phased by the groups that stroll by.
Our guide was fantastic, especially since he had to deal with 3 young boys full of energy! He even had a couple adults in the group that didn’t mean what “stay as a group” meant! The sea lions are apparently not fussed as long as we stay in groups. That’s not to say that a lone person, particularly one that is to close for comfort, wouldn’t frighten or anger a fast moving animal with sharp teeth!
Fortunately, we didn’t see any aggressive behavior….

We saw large ones so deep in sleep we figured he should be snoring….

Little ones feeding from mum….

Cute couples that make you want to say aaaaaaahhhhhh….

Big bear-like ones coming out of the water …..

And – my favorite – the cutest little inquisitive one!!!!
He couldn’t help but chase the black capped terns! (my apologies for any poor video quality – I had to chop the film in length and compress it for file size). Shortly after I quite filming he got distracted by the water and bored with the birds that wouldn’t sit and play with him. He went off for a swim by himself. I do wish our guide hadn’t then told us that “at this age, despite being good swimmers, they can still drown”!!!! What – don’t tell us that!The little guy seemed happy enough playing in the waves though, I’m sure he returned safe and sound.

After watching the sea lions, we headed towards the center of the island – Parndana – for groceries and a late lunch.

This SMALL flower was on the road next to the car.

We then headed to Kingscote (the “BIG” town on the island). We arrived around 4:30, meaning we were too late to catch many shops. The cold wind and overcast skies deterred our interest on driving far to find the beautiful beaches the island is known for. Plus – we couldn’t forget that dusk was coming in a few hours; we wanted to avoid driving at night (wildlife as much as possible). So, we headed just out of town to a winery instead! Yum wine – I bought a bottle of red to split with mum and mum bought a bottle of port to take home with her. She was also kind enough to pack a souvenir glass home for me!

After a quick drive around and through Kingscote (yep, everything was tightly closed up for the evening) we headed “home”. We opted for a pre-dinner walk around the neighborhood. We weren’t blessed with any black cockatoos (oh, how I still want to see one!), but we did have fun spotting nectar feeding birds at a tree. I’m quite pleased with this picture – one of the last of many mediocre ones I snapped!

The guide sheets I’ve been provided with by WWOOF host tell me it is a New Holland Honeyeater.

What a great way to close the day!



Thursday, 1 October
We got up extra early on this day, to ensure that we could fit in all of the Flinders Chase National Park, as well as the koala walk, and hopefully “little sahara” (so I could do some sandboarding!).

We started off by making a long detour. Hanson Bay was a pretty nice beach, but not very idyllic when it was cold and windy! There were some cute tracks (wallaby?) in the sand, and I enjoyed the bright green pattern the sea grass made in the sand.

We headed back up the road and turned off at Hanson Bay SANCTUARY (not at the bay itself, which was the reason for the detour). We were going on a koala walk! The koalas we were likely to spot in this sanctuary weren’t guaranteed to be in the trees. They were all wild koalas, no fences to keep them in. I had been told by a few people that spotting koalas could be fairly difficult – as their fur really does blend in and even when they ARE moving, they don’t move fast enough to draw attention. So, I was greatly surprised when, just inside the trailhead and next to the information board, I looked up in a tree and…. Spotted a koala!!!!!

It wasn’t the best view of a koala I could have hoped for… but it was my first one!!!!! And it was still really, really neat! Even if I couldn’t actually see it’s face.

This was a fairly common theme – seeing the koalas all curled up and hunched over in the crotch of a tree. Finding a face was difficult… finding photographic face was impossible! Until……




How adorable is that?!?!! Don’t you just want to cuddle up to it?! Aaaahhhh! Still makes me melt!




Eventually we came to a divergence in the path – either go back to the car (yeah right) or take the scenic path through a young eucalypt forest and hope to spot an echidna…. Tough call, aye?

Our decision wasn’t rewarded with more koalas (though I wasn’t looking up because I was hoping to spot the elusive ground dweller) or echidnas (dang!), but we Kathy did spot a kangaroo – lying down even! We were really quite not to scare it away, and soon we realized that there was another one nearby….. and another one…. And a couple more… WOW – there were heaps of kangaroos laying around the forest!


This little family wasn’t even worried by us!

Though, the baby did get a bit antsy after we followed the path around them (even went off the path at one point to give them more space).
After playing around with a beetle on my hand for ages – trying to get the right picture (I’m quite pleased with this one! Not so good for the gold and green coloration, but great for capturing the legs in the air!)……

I quickly tried to catch up with mum. I caught site of her just as she was dive bombed by a bird…. Several times! I can’t remember what bird it was (magpie?), but it was biggish and funny. I was hoping it would have one more go, but it flew off after the camera was out!

I was lagging behind on this section of the koala walk and soon I could hear Kathy saying, found one… here’s one… LOL. Then she got pretty excited, told me she found one moving and eating!!!! Well, I hurried right up to check that out (I wasn’t doing so good spotting them myself on this section – unlike earlier).

I got a couple good shots of this guy as he moved around…. But I got several decent videos too! See my past blog – all koala videos, three of them!
It’s a tough call on what pictures to throw up here (as you may have noticed – this blog is “chock a block” with them already), but I like this picture ‘cause he’s not sitting on his haunches! (no, I don’t know what gender this one is, but all koala’s look like old men to me…. Must be the ear hair! LOL).

After our necks could take no more looking upwards to the koalas, we headed onwards – the west of the island and Flinder’s Chase National Park. We hit the visitor center first and then headed to the Snake Lagoon hike. We were told the likelihood of our seeing a platypus (man do I want to see them!) was very, very low – esp on the platypus pool walk! So, we opted for a low possibility sighting at the bridge on the trail.

It was a lovely little trail, though there really wasn’t much of a view. There were a few flowers along the trail, but the rest of it was green bush regrowing amid black, fire charred, sticks (apparently the fire was 2 years ago through the entire area).




We didn’t spot a platypus at our incredibly scenic picnic spot……




But we were joined by an incredibly cheeky raven! I think he figured his posing for pictures entitled him to some free grub! He was pretty fearless, getting REALLY close to both Kathy and I – flying back a bit if you moved your arms up a bit. He was thoroughly entertaining, but we did not oblige the beggar – choosing not encourage the wildlife! He did attack the rock where I had left a few crumbs though!

On the way back to the main road of the park, we stopped and took a picture of these great grass trees (yeah, I don’t remember the proper name of them). The resiliency of the Australian bush is quite amazing. Having evolved with frequent fires, all the plants seem to char, but then regrow.



Our first stop, after hitting the coast, was the Remarkable Rocks. (the big lumps on top of the round out crop are the remarkable rocks).


Famous for their largeness …….

and strange shapes…….

they were a “can’t miss” visit.


Next up was a quick stop at the lighthouse (don’t remember the name… sorry)..... ooops, forgot to upload photo too!!! LOL

Followed by Admirals Arch….

a breeding location for New Zealand fur seals.


Our next stop was Kelly Hill Caves. We made it just in time for the last tour of the day. And who was our tour guide? The same guy from yesterday (the sea lion tour). I don’t remember his name, but he was quite entertaining anyway.

Caves are a hard place to take photographs. The lighting is to dim for easy snaps – a tripod would really be needed to get good, natural photos – and flashes just seem to harshly expose the nearby formations while shadowing the distant ones. However, I think most people will be able to see the “ballet slipper” in this stalactite!
At the cave visitor center a couple of kangaroos were allowing us slow pokes to a good show. I hope the video shows how they really do use their tail to balance, even when “walking”! (I put to clips together, that’s why it goes to just the little one at the end!..... sneaky movie maker!)

I don’t really recall what we did on this evening home. We arrived just after dusk, but without pictures to jog my memory…. It must not have been noteworthy - mum cooked ANOTHER yum dinner! (Thanks for all the cooking mum!).... Oh - and we missed Little Sahara. We were tired, the light was waning, and the board rental shop would have been closed.
Friday 2 October
This was our last full day on the island. We were going to explore the east side, a peninsula of the island. We saved this for last as I wanted to catch the beginning of the food and art festival that was opening throughout the island.

We had a lazy sleep in and late going. When we did finally pack up the car and head out, we both hoped the noise we were hearing had to do with the road. However, when we hit the better road it was obvious something was wrong. Kathy pulled over and her suspicion was confirmed – flat tire! Very flat! We started getting all the tools and the spare out of the “boot” when a car pulled up behind us. It was the owner of our accommodation! He had tried to tell us about the tire, but we just thought he had been waving! How nice of him to come after us and make sure we were okay!

While he (sorry, bad with names) changed our tire and chatted with Kathy, I took pictures of the cooperative pelicans nearby.




Check out the blue feet on the right one?!












Once we were on the road again we headed to Penneshaw. We would have been heading that way anyway, but now we had a tire (or tyre here in OZ/NZ) to fix. That didn’t stop us from visiting a winery (too early for tastings though …. For us responsible people anyway ;-) and checking out their art display for the festival – there was some Excellent work!
In town we stopped at the visitor center and visited an aboriginal art gallery first. After getting the tyre/tire sorted, we tried to have a picnic at the visitor center – unfortunately we found a nest of small little ants! It took Katy a good few whacks against a rock to dislodge the mass quantities from her towel! So, we opted for a picnic table on the water instead!

We then stopped at Frenchman’s rock, where a French guy carved some words into a rock ages ago – 1803 actually (the original rock is in the visitor center, having been replaced for safe keeping with a fake at the original site).


The area was lovely…..
And I had fun trying to catch this gulls reflection in the pool it was drinking from.









Next we headed to the Cape Willoughby light house…. (took a picture of its name, helps the memory A LOT).












This was a neat visit, as we had a guided tour through the grounds and up to the top of the lighthouse! We heard about lots of interesting information and saw an original lens from the old days.













We ended our final day on Kangaroo island at another winery. We had a tasting and bought a bottle (figuring we would drink it in Coober Peedy – since we were still working the bottle I had bought 2 days prior). We also had some lovely coffee and DELICIOUS homemade cheese cake.

After returning home, we sorted ourselves out and headed to dinner. We opted to give mum a break and treat ourselves. We went to a semi-plush hotel nearby and had everything from entrees (starters) to desserts…. Oh it was lovely! Cheese, kangaroo fillet, and ….. hmmm, don’t remember the name of the desserts – but they were both lovely!


WHEW….. I am knackered! It’s 11pm now, a day after I started this (it’s now 19 October)! My ant bite is itching crazy (and red, and swollen). Dan left today. He is going to work nearby with his girlfriend. Julia (my host) gave us a portable fire place. We had a lovely going away fire while we listened to the random, and very distant, koalas make odd sounds!











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