08 June 2008

A map could save your life

Well, I’m out of Auckland! I came really close to going back tonight, but just couldn’t do it. After flipping the coin that decided I was heading north, I ate breakfast, checked out, and headed down one of the main roads I know. I couldn’t turn where I thought I could, so I turned at the next place I knew went north. My car started making a horrible sound while I was on the motorway, but then it stopped. I figured (hoped) I was just riding the bumps that are the suggested lanes. When my car made the same sound I took the first exit and stopped at the first gas station. I topped the tank off, kicked the tires (no flats), and looked under the body. Nothing. Maybe it was my imagination?

I had already decided that this journey would entail as little backtracking as possible, and the exit from the gas station wouldn’t let me anyway. So I started heading down the road (highway 11 maybe). From there, I started driving about the way I walk through the city. Hey, that street looks good, lets try it. Oh, but don’t turn back, just find out where it goes and keep going (hey, that’s how I ended up at Mount Eden and working in Eden Gardens my very first day in Auckland!!).

So I decided “Great North Road” sounded like it was going my way, and maybe there was reason it was called GREAT. I followed Swanson Road for a bit and then found “Scenic Drive”. Hey, sounds good to me. Out of the many maps I have, all are pretty useless once you start looking at non-motorway or major streets. As I was driving down “Scenic Drive” I enjoyed the luxurious green everywhere and the few glimpses of the city I caught between mountain breaks (it was pretty far away!). I saw a couple markers indicating trails of the road, so at the first pull off I could find I locked my car and headed back towards one of them. I kind of questioned myself when I looked down onto a muddy, somewhat steep path that had a “Danger” sign at the bottom. I wasn’t sure what a stoat was, but I was definitely keeping my hands (and pets if I had them) to myself. The track was muddy (made me wish I had put my tramping boots on instead of my trail shoes), but no worse than any SE Alaska trail after a typically drizzly day.

It didn’t take me long to start worrying about my car. I had no idea what road I was on and how popular it was for breaks in. Granted, a person would have to be cruising by, see it, and then turn around to vandalize – but I’ve heard of theft in the North Island. I was kicking myself for not putting my laptop under a seat and locking it to the rail. I was doubly kicking myself for not packing my passport with me (passport plus credit cards all in a convenient IRD wallet would mean jackpot for any thief). However, I told myself I wouldn’t be long, and it was the middle of the day on a Sunday. What kind of burglars are out at that time? Plus, there were tons of bicyclists out. That would keep people honest, right? So I continued down the intriguing path, happy to be in some forest only 2 hours (approximately) after leaving the city. At some points I took it up to a trot. Not just because I felt rushed, but just because I was happy and light. Then I would come to a muck pit and slow WAY down to pick my way around it. I found a fantastic Amanita Muscaria (Alice in Wonderland mushroom) next to the path. The top was curved up and had a perfect pour spout in it’s edge. If I was a potter, I would so make a pitcher like it.
I eventually came to a fork in the path, with signs and a map. I was at the initial trail I had seen from the road. These two road paths connected to a big loop path. I decided to go down to the loop junction before heading back. The loop was supposed to go back to damn, so I was wondering if maybe there would be a lake in the center of the loop. I loped along for a bit having fun. I heard voices a couple times, but just kept going. Pretty soon the voices were quite close. I entered the loop junction and asked the 2 people there if they knew this trail. What I had hoped would be a casual conversation about the area (there is no lake until you get near the damn, then there’s some water) turned into a semil-lecture about how I should always carry spare water and food and clothes and A MAP and that I shouldn’t just wander trails because sometimes the trails aren’t well mapped and people often go missing. Oh, and I should always leave a plan with someone so they know when to call the search guys. There may be no bears here, but this is a more dangerous area than Alaska, etc etc, and then repeat the above at least one more time. I’m not sure that he ever got the point that I had never planned to go further than were I was at already, but I’m sure he felt I was woefully underprepared just for a 15 minute walk and that he was a bit concerned if I could find my way back. I finally got myself out of there. It made me really annoyed to be lectured to, but I definitely understand where he’s coming from. There have been two people missing on trails since I’ve been here – one was found dead many weeks later. I think what really annoyed me was the way he brushed aside my hiking experience and then constantly repeated his “rules” of hiking. On my way back up the trail I ran into a large group. The leader said “And here’s a happy tramper” as I came bouncing up. I smiled and we all chatted real briefly. They asked where I was going (or coming from, don’t remember) and I told him I just went to the loop junction because, as you can obviously see, I am not prepared for a longer trip (no raincoat, no water, just a camera and light jacket – go BSU). I told them I just saw the trail, parked, and walked. They thought that was great. I told them that I got a semi-lecture about maps and preparedness. They chuckled and asked who it was and then said they were with them ;-o Oh. It was funny, the guy at the end, as they group was walking away, said next time just to use a French accent and say “Oui, next time I will remember that”. :-) That made me laugh, and feel better about being there.

It turns out, I really was on the edge of wilderness though. After seeing the vast range of the Waitakere preserve, I can definitely see how people get lost. I was basically heading towards the end of the peninsula west of Auckland. The reason I was driving through such lush mountain forests is because that’s pretty much all they are. The guy definitely has a point about having a map of an area before trekking – but at the same time, I would still feel confident doing the Fairy Falls hike I came across (but didn’t do). While there will always be trails that aren’t as well marked, all the one’s I’ve seen are well marked with time and distance on them. Just don’t go down unmarked trails! Oh – I did text message my dad after that to ensure that he can get my messages. Figured I could start making nightly check in’s that way, if it made the parents feel better (since e-mail is getting expensive - $2 for 20 minutes at this place!!)

Anyway, like I said I passed up the Fairy falls trailhead because quite a few people were parked and getting ready to go (one had a baby on hip – so I was sure you didn’t need a map for that :). I kept driving until I came to the Arataki visitor center. The guy on the trail told me I could buy maps here, so I pulled in and checked it out. I wasn’t going to throw down $8-10 just to have another map in my car. If I end up working in Auckland, I will definitely get a map and check out the area, but not now. So instead, I took the free map showing that pretty much all roads from there either ended at a beach or went back to the city. I purchased a beautiful postcard of Rangitoto at sunset (my first postcard, I have no idea who is getting it – so don’t anybody hold their breath :) and talked with the cashier a little bit. She suggested I check out Piha beach and showed me a couple of trails (on THE MAP) that I could take. However, she never even suggested I buy the map. I guess she figured I took those trails I’d either fall into the ocean or be insane to climb the steep forest up the mountain!

So, I drove down some beautiful curvy roads with oncoming traffic BLAZING by. I’m not sure I’ll ever be comfortable driving that fast around corners in a station wagon – particularly while driving on the left side (yep, I never even drifted to the right). I stopped at an amazing overlook for Pahi beach and then continued down. It was lovely. Sandy beach, wave after wave after wave of whitecaps, a huge rock/mountain in the middle between the two mountain heads. I took a ton of pictures – but at ten cents a minute, you all have to use your imaginations. Sorry.
Anyway – long worded day short. I saw a bunch of beaches, walked through forests, took mass amounts of pictures (and couple videos of seafoam blowing by like tumbleweed), and still had time to find a place to sleep. I admit, I had to suppress the panic that kept wanting to creep up on me when I saw that it was 3pm and I still had no idea where I was going to sleep. I’m not even sure what the laws in the USA are for sleeping in your car, let alone what they are here in NZ – but I don’t feel particularly safe doing it on the north island – unless I’m at a designated camp site, which there weren’t many of nearby. So, as I stated earlier, I came very close to heading back to Auckland, but I really didn’t want to go back to my comfort zone. So pressed on, consulting my accommodation books and pamphlets over and over until I finally saw that I was really quite close to town with one hostel in it. I headed for it.

I arrived at in Helensville just before sunset and found “Malolo House” easily. To my surprise and happiness, they were not full (I didn’t think it would be because of location, but I figured my luck would be that it was full). In fact, it’s just me and 2 German dudes. The Malolo House is a large, beautiful place that I would love to have my mom stay in (or any relative - but it’s not handicap accessible :( It even has a hot tub!! I have been drying off while writing this! I could have gone deluxe for $33 and had a room to myself with towels and washcloths provided, but I saved $8 (hey, that’s 4 Liters of gas!) and went for the dorm/bunk room. I’ll have it to myself anyway. Plus, breakfast is still included! Yay.

I survived my first day of wondering aimlessly. Now, to spend $2 to get online. I’ll post this, check my mail (but not reply to anybody at these prices), and hopefully find that a WWOOF farm wants me to stay with them. *sigh* I am homesick, but I’m relieved to have a place to rest my head – that isn’t some creepy place in my car.

Oh yeah - and that awful car noise? it's my crappy speakers kicking in and out - whew!!

Hey - I just checked my e-mail. I got a WWOOF job working on building an earthen house (among other duties). Yay, free room (and hopefully board) while doing good hard work for 1/2 a day (not stupid bed making). Hopefully free internet?

2 comments:

ricktyrick said...

This is really good reading. Thanks

~Andrea~ said...

You're such a gutsy gal...Happy travels and keep up the blogging. I'm having a great time living vicariously through you!!!